4L60E to T5 swap for v6 3.8 1996 f-body 



I used a lift and pretty much a fully equipped shop to do this you probably could do this on jack stands but it was much easier this way . 


Here is a parts list :
Pedal assm. out of man. Car 
Tunnel boot for shifter 
T 5 Trans of your choice 
Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate
Slave  and master cylinder. (I got mine straight from gm fully assm.)
Pilot  bushing or bearing. (I had a bearing but I’ve seen  bronze bushings to )
You choice of shifter ( I used a hurst and really like it )
You need a pcm out of an 1997 f-body (doesn’t matter is it’s for an auto or stick )
HPTUNERS  (I used this to flash and program the computer ) if you don’t want to go this route you could find a vin for a stick car and take it to the dealer for flashing , or just get a stick pcm 
Center console out of  a manual car . I got mine out of a 1998 cause I wanted more cup holders .But it does leave a gap between the dash and console .


1. Disconnect battery 
2. Raise Vehicle off the ground ( a good amount of clearance is needed )
3. remove the console (there are 2 bolts inside the console and 2 bolts to the front of the console ,Your gonna need to disconnect the shifter from the shift interlock cable ,ahifter cable .
4. From the bottom of the car you gonna need to remove the trans cooler lines form the trans , large electrical connector from the side of the trans , vss sensor connector , 
5. Remove the driveshaft and torque arm ( I didn’t have to remove the torque arm but be very careful in releasing it under tension.
6. Place a jack under the transmissions to support it’s weight “remember it’s heavy “
7. There are 2 support plates on the body of the vehicle one that the trans mounts to has 4 bolt s,the second one which is smaller helps protect the exhaust joint is also 4 bolt . 
8. Once removed the trans and engine combo will want to tilt back allowing you to more easily remove the bellhousing bolts . There are 2 brackets witch hold the trans to the engine they have to be unbolted and removed but hold on to them for reinstallation later. There is also a dust shield witch needs to be unbolted first .You should now be able to carefully pull back on the trans making shore that the converter stays with the trans .be ready to spill some fluid . 
9.  Once you remove the trans the real fun begins , first you will need to remove the flexplate witch is bolted  to the motor . once out you will see a pilot hole drilled into the crank . put a little grease on the pilot bushing and insert it . Y don’t want to over do it just coat the inside of the bushing and the outside . If you put to much in the hole when you try to install the trans it wont let it fully connect 
10. Bolt the flywheel to the motor . the bolts used to hold the flexplate to the motor are not long enough so you will need to locate longer ones or get some from the donor car . 
11. Once the flexplate is installed you can install the clutch and pressure plate. Most kits will have an alignment tool to keep it all straight . make shore to torque the bolts to spec.
12. you can now take the time to change the throw out bearing while your in there . Much easyer now then later .it’s attached to the trans input shaft . not very hard to change now .
13. Before you test fit the trans under the car you will need to remove the shifter from the trans ,place some tape over the hole in the trans this will protect it from metal getting it  when you cut the hole for the trans. 
14. After inserting the trans onto the motor for the fist time you will need to locate where to cut the hole in the tunnel and cut it . some people choose to mark and drill four holes then use a jig saw to cut it out . You wan to cut the hole a little oversize . the boot you put on the console will cover over this , If you don’t cut it big enough the shifter will most likely bang on the tunnel or have a tendency of popping out of gear . A good way to locate where to make the cut is the base of the boot should be lined up with the metal punch hole in the tunnel . 
15. now it’s time to reinstall the trans for the last time .Make shore that the dust shield is installed after tightening all the bellhousing bolts , you now need to install the side supports that connect to motor to the trans. If you don’t put these on it could have the trans and engine split .
16. install the trans crossmember . you may have to reuse the old one because there were different versions though out the years   . reinstall the torque arm bracket to the trans being careful of the tension on it . don’t grab it from the top and pull down . grand it from one of the holes  . reinstall the drive shaft . in my case I went with a 1 peace steel instead of the 2 in know there isn’t much of a difference but they say the single I better for hi speed use .
17. Your now going to need to wire up the trans , mine had pigtails coming off of it but you can get them from gm or an ac Delco dealer . there is a connector for the reverse switch ,v.s.s .You may need to extend the vss sensor wires . The reverse wiring  will need to be run up to the to the neutral saftey switch near where the shifter  used to be . you need to connect one end the the light green wire the other incoming end to the small brown wire ,( The bug one runs to the clutch switch ) .
18. While working on the safety switch you will need to run wires to the clutch switch on the brake pedal . It wont matter where you wire either color to but you need to cut  the yellow wire and the large brown wire . these wire allow currant to pass to the starting circuit . There will  be 2 wires left that control the hatch release ,You can connect these to together they enable the power to follow to the hatch release .
19. reinstall the console back into the car , make sure to reconnect the wires going to the cigarette lighter . reinstall the 4 bolt to the console . reinstall the console shifter boot and handle assm . 
20. you need to drill the hole for the master cylinder from the inside of the car in the plastic of the firewall   .you’ll see a rough outline in the plastic. You also need to drill 2 smaller holes to put the u clamp to the firewall. I had to unbolt the master cylinder and brake booster to get to where the master cylinder for the clutch  sits . before I installed it I took the hose off of the master cylinder for the clutch and drilled out the restriction in the line . for some reson gm thinks that making the absolute minimum flo through the lines is a good thin (it actually helps the clutch release faster then with the restriction . 
21. reinstall the hose onto the master cylinder  for the clutch , the brake booster , master cylinder for the brakes . make sure you bleed the clutch  . I used a vacuum pump to bleed it but you could do it the manual way . 
22. I changed my pcm out for one from a 1997 v6  camaro pcm . like I said before you can get it reflashed , get one from the junkyard ,or used hptuners to rewrite the vcm . you can use the one for the auto trans but it willl through codes like crazy . also will have weird idle .
23. onces this is all done you can take it off the jackstands reconnect the battery and take it for a test drive .