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plenty got out of the 15s without many mods though (an no where close to $2k). my v6 ran 14.8 first time down the track and all i had was exhaust and a tune.
LETZRIDE: bottom line is: its cheaper to go faster in a v8 than v6. however you want to work that out (mods, swaps, new car, etc) is up to you..
im not debating that...but this only applies when you have started with a v8...if you are going to pay to swap one in, by the time you add up your costs, and look at what you could of bought mod wise for the v6 for that same money...you'd be faster than the stock v8 you just swapped in.
If your starting with a v8 already in the car then its a totally different story.
im not debating that...but this only applies when you have started with a v8...if you are going to pay to swap one in, by the time you add up your costs, and look at what you could of bought mod wise for the v6 for that same money...you'd be faster than the stock v8 you just swapped in.
If your starting with a v8 already in the car then its a totally different story.
^Thats the truth right there. Well said.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
im not debating that...but this only applies when you have started with a v8...if you are going to pay to swap one in, by the time you add up your costs, and look at what you could of bought mod wise for the v6 for that same money...you'd be faster than the stock v8 you just swapped in.
If your starting with a v8 already in the car then its a totally different story.
disagree.
Let's say you have 2,000 to spend on your v6. You could put that towards a) mods, or you could put that towards b) a v8 swap. Option A will be slower. Option B will be faster and have a higher "ceiling" i.e. ability to go even faster.
Think of it in terms a job promotion. You can get a raise from 15,000 to 20,000 year and stay within your current pay bracket that ends at 30,000 .. or you can jump pay brackets and start at 20,000 with a ceiling of 40,000. which would you choose?
Let's say you have 2,000 to spend on your v6. You could put that towards a) mods, or you could put that towards b) a v8 swap. Option A will be slower. Option B will be faster and have a higher "ceiling" i.e. ability to go even faster.
Think of it in terms a job promotion. You can get a raise from 15,000 to 20,000 year and stay within your current pay bracket that ends at 30,000 .. or you can jump pay brackets and start at 20,000 with a ceiling of 40,000. which would you choose?
for 2,000 you can do heads and cam on a car...and you will not be slower than option A if you do it correctly.
for 2,000 you can do heads and cam on a car...and you will not be slower than option A if you do it correctly.
Yes, for $2k, you can toss a set of heads on and a cam in. Awesome recipe for a 14.0 car with NO OTHER SUPPORTING MODS. Is this getting driven in to your head yet? If your magical combo could be done for that kinda dough, there would be more than a handful of people doing it.
Wait, Is that a V6 or V8? 1990 Chevrolet C-K 1500 series 4.3L .. 5spd
1994 JDM Euno Roadster 1.8L 5spd Bolt Ons.. etc 2000 Camaro 3.8L Auto Bolt Ons..etc
And what makes me laugh the most is that you, of all people should know better. Your heads/cam car isn't even close to out running a stock LS1.
A) depends on the head/cam setup you do...you can have anything from mild (which wont do it) to wild (which will)
and you can't exactly look at my numbers...remember that 13.6 was run on barely any timing (no more than 18*), a rod bearing that went out on the next run (which was causing my knock issues and causing stupid amounts of timing to be pulled) and a half tank of gas. I KNOW my motor had a helluva lot more in it.
Remember...my car cam only still pulled off a 13.8...thats below a 14.0...those are LS1 numbers.
I know that a v8 is a better starting base...but imo its a waste to spend money to swap a stock engine in when you can spend that same money to be modded, and even have the sweet sound of a cam in your car...
A) depends on the head/cam setup you do...you can have anything from mild (which wont do it) to wild (which will)
and you can't exactly look at my numbers...remember that 13.6 was run on barely any timing (no more than 18*), a rod bearing that went out on the next run (which was causing my knock issues and causing stupid amounts of timing to be pulled) and a half tank of gas. I KNOW my motor had a helluva lot more in it.
Remember...my car cam only still pulled off a 13.8...thats below a 14.0...those are LS1 numbers.
I know that a v8 is a better starting base...but imo its a waste to spend money to swap a stock engine in when you can spend that same money to be modded, and even have the sweet sound of a cam in your car...
A "wild" heads/cam setup is going to cost you WAY more than $2k with all the necessary supporting modifications. Why are you pushing this so hard? You KNOW from first hand experience that it can not be done. 13.80 is not LS1 territory. 13.80 is slouchy LT1 territory at best. My STOCK unopened LS1 runs 11.60's. 2 full seconds faster than your modded car. Hope that sweet cam sound helps you feel better about getting your doors blown off. lol. Quit talking out of your rear facing oriface.
man you know damn well your 11.60 isnt in street trim...lets talk everyday ls1 numbers...if you go swap a stock ls1 in a normal dd car your running mid to high 13's except for those factory freaks.
and I dont know what LT1s are running in your area...but most everyone that I have seen at the track stock is running 14's (with a few actually pulling 15's, dependant on the air) at track...
and wild wouldn't cost you much more...what else do you need...130# springs-150# springs and a double roller timing chain?...
man you know damn well your 11.60 isnt in street trim...lets talk everyday ls1 numbers...if you go swap a stock ls1 in a normal dd car your running mid to high 13's except for those factory freaks.
and I dont know what LT1s are running in your area...but most everyone that I have seen at the track stock is running 14's (with a few actually pulling 15's, dependant on the air) at track...
and wild wouldn't cost you much more...what else do you need...130# springs-150# springs and a double roller timing chain?...
Oh please, tell me what makes my car not streetable. I need a muffler to be legal. I could probably drive it as is, since it is quieter than most LS1's I've heard lately. I don't know what planet you race on, but here on earth, stone stock LS1's usually run bottom 13's all day long. I've had more than one, and I've raced them all. Same thing with LT1's, most people are high 13's.
Back to the V6 cluster****. Springs aren't the only difference. You would also need headers, gear, converter, tires, etc, etc, etc, all the supporting stuff to get it done. Otherwise you're going to have a complete pooch. Better stock up on Alpo.
Well I have both a LS1 and a LT1 and I love them both. If I had to choose the LS1 is a better motor but the LT1 is a great and cheaper alternative..
My LT1 with a 3200 stall and Airfoil went 13.66@100.5
My LS1 with a lid, Mac Mid headers, Catback, and some suspension went 13.1@110
My 98 V6 with Full exhaust, Lid and a 75 shot went 14.1@102.. When I started spraying a 90 shot I was pretty much on par with stock LS1's and then when I went to a 125 shot I was running with bolt on LS1's!!
My V6 was the cheapest to build out of all 3 of those cars and I had around 1000.00 in mods done to it while getting the best gas miles and surprising alot of people..
Jeff ..
1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold
Oh please, tell me what makes my car not streetable. I need a muffler to be legal. I could probably drive it as is, since it is quieter than most LS1's I've heard lately. I don't know what planet you race on, but here on earth, stone stock LS1's usually run bottom 13's all day long. I've had more than one, and I've raced them all. Same thing with LT1's, most people are high 13's.
Back to the V6 cluster****. Springs aren't the only difference. You would also need headers, gear, converter, tires, etc, etc, etc, all the supporting stuff to get it done. Otherwise you're going to have a complete pooch. Better stock up on Alpo.
My 02 LS1 with a Lid and catback went 13.3 and with headers went a 13.1.. I am a okay driver. Pretty much most bolt on LS1 F-bodies that I have seen are in the 13.8-12.8 range.
As far as my LT1 I am really happy with that.. 13.66 with a stall and airfoil.. Most Bolt on Lt1's I have seen run between a 14.3-13.3 range.
I have seen BONE STOCK LS1 cars run low 13's high 12's as well but they were in GM High Tech mags.. I have seen Bone stock LS1's run in the 14's all day long at the track as well..
If he wants to reach a goal in his V6 then thats great. It hasnt been done yet so why cant he be the 1st?
Jeff ..
1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold
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