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You will be a fan after the 1st time you hit a 175 shot.. N20 Is like crack!!
People never understand it until they've experienced it. The snap of instantaneous torque is something you have to feel to appreciate. My car goes from 0-apeshlt with the click of a button.
Alright here you go...you want me to break down numbers? (your lucky I actually already did most of these parts and have the prices down from my rebuild, or I probably wouldnt bother)
you dont *need* lifters, pushrods, and some of the stuff you mentioned.
Take your heads to a reputable machine shop, port and polish them
P&P'd R&R'd $400
Manley valves (and I could be real cheap and use SI valves, but I'll stick to some quality here) $358
you want to go felpro or mls gaskets here?...hell lets go MLS, we got some money to burn...169$
basic head bolts 20$
Boom...your heads are done...that was 947$
Are total is $1637
Wideband 200$
$1837...find a tuner in your area and throw him $163 for letting you use his tuner...thats an even 2000$...and yes, you could go cheaper...you could go felpro headgaskets, and SI valves...that will give you close to another 350$ to spend...you could buy a tuner for that 163 + 350$ if you want to go the cheap route... or take that extra cash and put it into a tq converter, OR gears...or, or, or....and thats getting these parts brand new...how about if you get them used?
as far as bolt ons go, you dont need them...pull the air filters off and run an open throttle body, and unhook your exhaust at the manifolds...the manifolds we have aren't brutal...they're not the best, but there isnt a huge gain to be had by headers in the first place...
are you catching my drift...Im not trying to be an a**hole...but to spend 2000$ to put a stock motor in, when you can get that same performance or better out of your v6 for around the same cost and less headaches...why bother? And that v8 swap is not going to cost 2000$...I can gurantee that...and if you are getting it for that price...you're taking a wild guess at the condition of the motor your throwing in there, because you know its going to be high mileage...
Mine has 3.73's front and back with the snug top to add weight to the rear, I have tunned it ,adding 2 degrees across the board and then added a CAI , next is my dynomax muffler it responds to mods well. The last thing will be headers. Have to remember the truck is over 5500LBS.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
you dont *need* lifters, pushrods, and some of the stuff you mentioned.
And that v8 swap is not going to cost 2000$...I can gurantee that...and if you are getting it for that price...you're taking a wild guess at the condition of the motor your throwing in there, because you know its going to be high mileage...
Like you said you dont need Lifters, Pushrods but if you are installing a new camshaft why not install the supporting parts for that camshaft? You dont want to risk your lifters sticking because they have been set for so long to the Stock cam specs.
I think you will need to change your Pushrods because I could almost bet you that the length will change based off of your new cam..
I agree that its not worth the risk to get a cheap V8 with unknown issues so why risk using the same valvetrain as well?
Jeff ..
1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold
Like you said you dont need Lifters, Pushrods but if you are installing a new camshaft why not install the supporting parts for that camshaft? You dont want to risk your lifters sticking because they have been set for so long to the Stock cam specs.
I think you will need to change your Pushrods because I could almost bet you that the length will change based off of your new cam..
I agree that its not worth the risk to get a cheap V8 with unknown issues so why risk using the same valvetrain as well?
depends on how many K are on the motor...and I agree you should do those things while you are already in there., and I did them personally..but it's not necessary, and can be done at a later date...heck, it wouldnt take you very long to do them later either...
Pushrod length would be fine...Ive been running with 7.05's which is stock sizing (actually 2thou longer) since I put both the cams in, one being the ARHA cam, and the other being the new custom one... I could be wrong but I do believe the stock/stock replacement [B]non[B] OE-R lifters have about .040 +/- give to them that they will take up slack from the pushrod, and that is very forgiving.
OE-R is like only +/- 0.005
all Im trying to say, is this is one of the cheapest way to do a cam swap while buying all parts brand new...it's the basic of basics, because I am sure it is going to be matched up against what the cheapest way to put a v8 in.
Just remember, if you go with a v8, you need a v8 tranny to, as well as a v8 K memember at the very least. So not only would you be taking a risk if you get a high mileage v8, but your going to be taking a risk with the tranny to...and both those will set you back a few thousand $$ if you need to rebuild them. Atleast with the v6 you know what you have since it's what you when you bought it, and you've had it for awhile...
People never understand it until they've experienced it. The snap of instantaneous torque is something you have to feel to appreciate. My car goes from 0-apeshlt with the click of a button.
I have experienced it, and it's just not for me. I have driven 3 different cars for my friends at the track with nitrious. Yes its nice to feel the torque and all but if it's not there all the time I just don't see the point. Wouldn't want to have to refill my bottle and make sure its on and at a certain temperature, purge, blah blah. I like to just turn the key and GO. :)
Im not trying to be an a**hole...but to spend 2000$ to put a stock motor in, when you can get that same performance or better out of your v6 for around the same cost and less headaches...why bother? And that v8 swap is not going to cost 2000$...I can gurantee that...and if you are getting it for that price...you're taking a wild guess at the condition of the motor your throwing in there, because you know its going to be high mileage...
I don't have time to craft a well thought out retort this morning. However, I just wanted to put out there that you really don't have to try. It comes across naturally. And to add fuel to the fire. I had exactly $100 invested in my Camaro when it made it's first pass down the dragstrip. So don't sit here and try to tell me that you can't swap a v8 for under $2k. I have the proof parked in my motherf'n garage.
I don't have time to craft a well thought out retort this morning. However, I just wanted to put out there that you really don't have to try. It comes across naturally. And to add fuel to the fire. I had exactly $100 invested in my Camaro when it made it's first pass down the dragstrip. So don't sit here and try to tell me that you can't swap a v8 for under $2k. I have the proof parked in my motherf'n garage.
well I'm touched that you feel that way...makes me feel warm and fuzzy because it happens so rarely.
Correct me if I am wrong, but did you not get your donor car for free on/with a featherlite trailer? or was that someone else?
That was someone else. Paid for the donor car in cold hard cash. Also parted out a TON of stuff I didn't use from the donor car. Paid for the trailer in cold hard cash as well. I have significantly more invested in my trailer than I do in my Camaro.
Really now...it wasn't you that paid $7gs for a featherlite trailer with a free camaro on the back of it? Cause that's what your "what should I do with this" thread says...
I should hope you have more invested into your trailer than the camaro, because you got the camaro for free...
I didn't ask if you paid cold hard cash...I paid cold hard cash for all 3 of my cars...what do I win? This is irrelevant to the issue in question...
why can't cash ever be warm? its usually in your pocket isnt it?
Wait, Is that a V6 or V8? 1990 Chevrolet C-K 1500 series 4.3L .. 5spd
1994 JDM Euno Roadster 1.8L 5spd Bolt Ons.. etc 2000 Camaro 3.8L Auto Bolt Ons..etc
Really now...it wasn't you that paid $7gs for a featherlite trailer with a free camaro on the back of it? Cause that's what your "what should I do with this" thread says...
I should hope you have more invested into your trailer than the camaro, because you got the camaro for free...
I didn't ask if you paid cold hard cash...I paid cold hard cash for all 3 of my cars...what do I win? This is irrelevant to the issue in question...
Paid cash for the Camaro. $1500. Nothing came free. Where are you even getting this? And the point was that an LS1 swap can be done for well under $2k if you know what the hell you're doing. Don't hate.
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