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aren't you suppsoted ot have it pretty far upstream and before a cat?
-Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>
they can put it wherever you want. the one place im planning on going to has a "base test" of tailpipe. and if you pay moer you get more pulls/any location etc.
Well if your car is setup right, then you will ahve an extra bung welding into your exhaust before your cat(s) for the sensor to screw into. Or they might take out an O2 sensor that isn't being used and put it in there. But if those don't work then they can use a sniffer on your tailpipe and that will pick up the reading as well. But having an extra bung is the best way to go.
1987 Buick Grand National drivetrain in my 1993 Pontiac Firebird. PT53 turbo, 212/212 comp cam, 3400 lockup converter, stock heads, Precision bar & plate FMIC with 3\" piping, 1994 z28 rearend, hotwired walbro 255 fuel pump, Nitto drag radials
Originally posted by shenanigans: aren't you suppsoted ot have it pretty far upstream and before a cat?
For the most accurate results, yes.
If they put the sensor in a tailpipe (like at a dyno), there's calculations they can do to get a pretty good idea of the actual AFR. Measuring it here will show the AFR to be leaner than it actually is, because of what the cat removed from the exhaust.
Ok just wondering works exactly as I thought. [img]smile.gif[/img]
-Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>
Not much going on, replaced my Kenwood double din stereo with a Pioneer double din, the Kenwood had problems. Then replaced my power inverter for my reverse...
3 weeks ago
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