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So I've seen. Pretty nice, how much they set you back? You know if you're building your engine for maximum airflow and strengthening the internals, why don't you consider a shot of the juice and some gears? Nitrous sure made my car a blast to drive, and the gears make your car faster regardless of engine power.
i was gonna juice my car for a while but decided to stick N/A
a new rear with disks/lsd/gears is the last big ticket item, i'll deal with it after this is done.
and you don't wanna know the setback on those heads :omg:
I was gonna stick NA, but then I thought, "Hmm, $400 for a full, safe kit, and instant 100rwhp. I'll take it"
If you're staying NA, how much over stock did you up the compression?
didn't up it at all really, no new pistons, head decks werne't really shaved at all, just enough to rebuild them properly. comp is prlly close to the same.
Then that motor would take to nitrous really well, especially with all that intake/cam/valvetrain work. Realisticlly, you could put 320hp uut of that car safely with a safe kit and tune. And hp/$ wise, nitrous is the best bag for your buck. Couple with some 4.10s and LSD, and you'd have a formidible(sp) ride. Compared to what you've spent already, a full nitrous kit would be chump change.
Then that motor would take to nitrous really well, especially with all that intake/cam/valvetrain work. Realisticlly, you could put 320hp uut of that car safely with a safe kit and tune. And hp/$ wise, nitrous is the best bag for your buck. Couple with some 4.10s and LSD, and you'd have a formidible(sp) ride. Compared to what you've spent already, a full nitrous kit would be chump change.
hahha yeah and then i can blow out the bottom end cuz it hasn't been touched yet. :tdown:
The safety lies in a safe tune. It takes a whole lot of power to destroy a crank or bend a rod, the damage comes from any unaddressed knock retard. If you get the AFRs correct, and pull away a few degrees of timing up top, you'd be fine.
I'm not saying do it now, I'm saying your motor would take to nitrous well, and seeing how you haven't messed with compression, you wouldn't be utilizing the motor effeciently be staying NA. Just an option to weigh and consider.
The safety lies in a safe tune. It takes a whole lot of power to destroy a crank or bend a rod, the damage comes from any unaddressed knock retard. If you get the AFRs correct, and pull away a few degrees of timing up top, you'd be fine.
I'm not saying do it now, I'm saying your motor would take to nitrous well, and seeing how you haven't messed with compression, you wouldn't be utilizing the motor effeciently be staying NA. Just an option to weigh and consider.
do a search on 3.4 tune and you'll see the issue there.
do a search on 3.4 tune and you'll see the issue there.
I know you're screwed with the whole OBD1, but don't you guys have Megasquirt to tune? You're gonna need to tune with your setup; your heads and intakes are gonna push alot more air in than the computer thinks, and that'll throw off your WOT fueling tables, leaning them out. You invest in a wideband yet?
I know you're screwed with the whole OBD1, but don't you guys have Megasquirt to tune? You're gonna need to tune with your setup; your heads and intakes are gonna push alot more air in than the computer thinks, and that'll throw off your WOT fueling tables, leaning them out. You invest in a wideband yet?
i've got a holley adjustable fuel pressure regulator going on, by upping the psi i can add a bit more fuel with the stock injectors plus a better spray pattern.
i know a guy whose working on a obd1 piggyback so we can control fuel and spark. I've got 19lb injectors waiting in a box for the day i can tune properly :tup:
don't worry, i'm not gonna blow up my engine due to lack of fuel, plenty of others have run a similar setup with a holley afpr and haven't had trouble yet that i know of. but like i said, i will tune when it becomes reasonably possible to do so.
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