Welcome to the FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I fought with my truck all day long to get my upper ball joint to line up. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out what was causing the lower control arm to not want to compress high enough... well turns out I learned the torsion bars needed to be backed off lol. What a pain in the ***...
Then to boot it didn’t look like the ball joint was sitting properly until I pulled the boot down. But she torqued in fine...
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
So just as I finished up installing new ball joints and shocks- I discover my frame is cracked right through on both sides on the GM weld.
Unbelievable odds. Looks like a defect from likely using too hot of a weld which thinned out the metal. Then with a bit of rust, boom she went. I contacted GM and they won’t do diddly squat which annoys me even more.
There is some surface rust on the frame but it is nowhere near rotten to cause this. The rest of the frame is solid as can be
Well that sucks, figures GM wouldn’t do anything. What you gonna do?
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
What a mess. So I have been literally running around looking at vehicles in every ounce of my spare time and trying to strip some accessory parts off my old truck.
I bought a 2018 2.5L Colorado that I am supposed to pickup on Wednesday. I got it for a fair price with a bit of warranty, but only because it has about 56k on it. Which I am fine with because they would have mostly all been highway miles.
I am drafting up an email to GM as we speak with more photos of the crack. I want to push them to do something, because it really is a factory default in my opinion and it is lucky it didn't kill me or another family...
So with a ton of running around the last few weeks, I am finally done trying to sell my truck as a whole and am parting it out. I have a guy who is going to buy the motor off of me and his mechanic is going to pull the motor. That saves me some time and space which will hopefully allow me to catch back up to my other projects I fell behind on before I need to part down the rest of the truck.
I won’t start a new thread for my new truck, I’ll just post my 2018 below. I had to run out and line-x the bed and did they ever do a killer job on it....
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Really sucks on the chassis cracks...
Usually when doing ball joints (yes, I have owned a few pieces of crap and have had to do one or two, lol) I raise the body up, put a block under the lower arm and lower the body down into place -- seems to usually line everything up without having to fight with the suspension too much.
Really sucks on the chassis cracks...
Usually when doing ball joints (yes, I have owned a few pieces of crap and have had to do one or two, lol) I raise the body up, put a block under the lower arm and lower the body down into place -- seems to usually line everything up without having to fight with the suspension too much.
Liking the new truck though.
Maybe I should have tried that - I had the jack under the control arm though. I think my biggest issue was that the tension was still on the torsion bar. Once I backed them off it was smooth as butter... lol, It's always the stupid tricks you don't think of though...
Holy cow , that’s some serious parting out. Good job.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
It actually wasn’t nearly as much work as I thought. Milwaukee “torch” sawzall bits made the cutting a total breeze. I am straight through the frame in 30-45 seconds. The blades are super strong too- a few times when the steel closed up I slipped out of my cut line and smashed the blade on the body and expected it to fold in half. Didn’t even bend... best $27 I’ve spent in awhile lol.
I have mostly everything pulled minus the front suspension. Once that is out I’ll make maybe 4 more cuts to chop up the remaining front frame and that’ll be it
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment