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I wrote this little write up for those of you that need to replace your fuel pump and don't want to drop your exhaust and tank to do it.
This write up has already been done, however the pictures are not all in one place and/or missing.
Many modern cars and trucks come from the factory now with fuel pump access already in the trunk or bed. Not our F-Bodies.
I did this mod not to replace a bad fuel pump, but to replace the faulty fuel sender so my fuel guage would work again.
A word of caution - Perform this modification at your own risk! You will be cutting metal extremely
close to fuel lines that have fuel in them. Although unlikely if you are careful, it is possible to cut
the lines and start your car on fire! Keep a fire extinguisher close by just in case.
Also, you will be cutting a large hole in the body of your car, which may compromise the structural
integrity of the vehicle.
Tools needed:
-Phillips and flathead screwdrivers and metric sockets
-Dremel or die grinder with metal cutoff disks (don't try to use a full size
angle grinder, you will cut too deep.)
-Shop towels and shop vac
1) Park your car on a level surface in an area with sufficient lighting.
2) Either remove the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay from the fuse panel.
3) Crank the engine for several seconds to relieve the fuel pressure - The engine
may start for a moment and then die.
You could also start the engine before removing the fuse, then pull it and let the engine run out of gas.
4) Turn the ignition off and disconnect your battery.
5) Remove any items from your trunk including speaker boxes, amps, etc.
6) Remove the side panels from the trunk (where the rear speakers are.)
Also remove the child seat/cargo hooks (if still equipped.)
7) Pull the carpet back (forward actually) to expose the body. You may also want to remove the side panels
in the back seat to make it easier to pull the carpet forward. You can also drop the
back seat down to make it even easier.
8) Cover the front of the interior with a drop cloth in case sparks fly forward into the passenger compartment.
(as you can see in the pic, I didn't do this.)
9) Cover the back of the trunk with a drop cloth or blanket. I found it was easier to cut the body
by actually climbing into the trunk well and sitting on the back hatch.
10) Mark the area you will be cutting with a Sharpie (see picture below.)
11) Use your Dremel or die grinder to carefully cut the body. Do NOT cut too deep!
The fuel lines can be as close as 1/8th of an inch from the body. Mine had about 1/2 inch clearance.
There are also wires near the rear cut that are close to the body. I nicked 2 of mine
and had to repair them. The wires were right against the body panel.
12) You can either cut the piece completely out, or just cut 3 sides and fold the body
up out of your way. I did the latter, but I cut into the body on the 4th side
a little bit to make it easier to fold (all the way across but only about half way through.)
13) After all cuts are completed, use your flathead screwdriver to pry the hatch up.
14) Use your shop vac and towels to clean up all metal shavings and dirt before
removing your fuel pump.
Congratulations!! If you managed not to set your car on fire, you have successfully made a
fuel pump access door. This write up does not include instructions on the removal/replacement of the fuel pump.
Please refer to your service manual or search this website for help.
Replacement method of the panel is your choice. My sub box sits on top of this area and uses the cargo hook
mounts to hold it in place. Therefore I didn't need to worry about it being strong.
I simply put Gorilla tape on the bottom edge, sticky side facing up, then folded the panel down on top of the tape,
and taped it down on the top side. Then I put sound mat back over it.
If you put weight on this area, you will want to secure it a little better.
My suggestion would be to use a piece of sheet metal and cover the whole access hatch with it.
Being careful not to puncture the tank or lines, use 1/4 inch long, self tapping sheet
metal screws to attach it to the body, and put a small bead of silicone
sealant under the edge to keep out the dust. Do not use a drill to pre-drill
the holes unless you have stop collar for your bit, or you could puncture your fuel tank.
You could probably do without the screws and just use the silicone to hold it in place, if you choose.
NOTE - This was done on a 2001 F-Body (Camaro.) The fuel pump on the pre '99 cars
is slightly farther forward. Adjust your cut accordingly (see pic below.)
This picture was originally posted by UDLOSE98. Hope you approve of me using it.
Link to original post: http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread...ight=fuel+pump
This write up has already been done, however the pictures are not all in one place and/or missing.
Many modern cars and trucks come from the factory now with fuel pump access already in the trunk or bed. Not our F-Bodies.
I did this mod not to replace a bad fuel pump, but to replace the faulty fuel sender so my fuel guage would work again.
A word of caution - Perform this modification at your own risk! You will be cutting metal extremely
close to fuel lines that have fuel in them. Although unlikely if you are careful, it is possible to cut
the lines and start your car on fire! Keep a fire extinguisher close by just in case.
Also, you will be cutting a large hole in the body of your car, which may compromise the structural
integrity of the vehicle.
Tools needed:
-Phillips and flathead screwdrivers and metric sockets
-Dremel or die grinder with metal cutoff disks (don't try to use a full size
angle grinder, you will cut too deep.)
-Shop towels and shop vac
1) Park your car on a level surface in an area with sufficient lighting.
2) Either remove the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay from the fuse panel.
3) Crank the engine for several seconds to relieve the fuel pressure - The engine
may start for a moment and then die.
You could also start the engine before removing the fuse, then pull it and let the engine run out of gas.
4) Turn the ignition off and disconnect your battery.
5) Remove any items from your trunk including speaker boxes, amps, etc.
6) Remove the side panels from the trunk (where the rear speakers are.)
Also remove the child seat/cargo hooks (if still equipped.)
7) Pull the carpet back (forward actually) to expose the body. You may also want to remove the side panels
in the back seat to make it easier to pull the carpet forward. You can also drop the
back seat down to make it even easier.
8) Cover the front of the interior with a drop cloth in case sparks fly forward into the passenger compartment.
(as you can see in the pic, I didn't do this.)
9) Cover the back of the trunk with a drop cloth or blanket. I found it was easier to cut the body
by actually climbing into the trunk well and sitting on the back hatch.
10) Mark the area you will be cutting with a Sharpie (see picture below.)
11) Use your Dremel or die grinder to carefully cut the body. Do NOT cut too deep!
The fuel lines can be as close as 1/8th of an inch from the body. Mine had about 1/2 inch clearance.
There are also wires near the rear cut that are close to the body. I nicked 2 of mine
and had to repair them. The wires were right against the body panel.
12) You can either cut the piece completely out, or just cut 3 sides and fold the body
up out of your way. I did the latter, but I cut into the body on the 4th side
a little bit to make it easier to fold (all the way across but only about half way through.)
13) After all cuts are completed, use your flathead screwdriver to pry the hatch up.
14) Use your shop vac and towels to clean up all metal shavings and dirt before
removing your fuel pump.
Congratulations!! If you managed not to set your car on fire, you have successfully made a
fuel pump access door. This write up does not include instructions on the removal/replacement of the fuel pump.
Please refer to your service manual or search this website for help.
Replacement method of the panel is your choice. My sub box sits on top of this area and uses the cargo hook
mounts to hold it in place. Therefore I didn't need to worry about it being strong.
I simply put Gorilla tape on the bottom edge, sticky side facing up, then folded the panel down on top of the tape,
and taped it down on the top side. Then I put sound mat back over it.
If you put weight on this area, you will want to secure it a little better.
My suggestion would be to use a piece of sheet metal and cover the whole access hatch with it.
Being careful not to puncture the tank or lines, use 1/4 inch long, self tapping sheet
metal screws to attach it to the body, and put a small bead of silicone
sealant under the edge to keep out the dust. Do not use a drill to pre-drill
the holes unless you have stop collar for your bit, or you could puncture your fuel tank.
You could probably do without the screws and just use the silicone to hold it in place, if you choose.
NOTE - This was done on a 2001 F-Body (Camaro.) The fuel pump on the pre '99 cars
is slightly farther forward. Adjust your cut accordingly (see pic below.)
This picture was originally posted by UDLOSE98. Hope you approve of me using it.
Link to original post: http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread...ight=fuel+pump
