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  • Audio: 6.5 mids to 8” subs upgrade.

    AUTHOR OF THIS WRITE UP IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY CONSEQUENCES RESULTING FROM ADVICE GIVEN HEREIN. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK!


    There are not many cars left with 6.5” mid woofers that are not blown yet.
    8” subs are a good upgrade for the f-body.

    The tools you will need:
    </font>
    • Fillips #2 and slot screwdrivers</font>
    • 7mm head to remove old speakers,</font>
    • Dremel tool and
      attachments , to cut the hole.</font>
    • SAFETY : Safety glasses, ear plugs</font>


    To remove the rear passenger plastic side panel:
    Remove the screw on the bottom; remove the “jacket” hook on the top.
    The panel is attached to the car by Velcro. Just pool it and get it out.

    Now remove the old speaker.
    Draw the 7” circle around the stock hole. Tips: you would need to shift the center of the circle little bit to the rear top. Therefore, you will need to cut little bit less on the bottom and on the side that goes to the front of the car.

    This is how mine looked after the first cut:



    It doesn’t look very pretty, but hey, this is the first day I ever seen the Dremel tool in my life.
    The trick is to get it right from the first shot. In my case, the hole was too small so I had to make it bigger and that was a pain.


    People who gonna use the shallow mounting depth subs like Pyramids could install their subs at this point.

    People who want some serious subs should draw a second circle inside the 7” hole (as shown on the previous pic) and do the second cutout.





    This is how it should look after the second cut. From this picture you can see how DEEP you can go!
    For people who would like to do some extreme setup, it should fit JL 8w7 `s in there.
    In my case, I didn’t want to spend a lot and time was a factor so I got a pair of Audiobahns.




    Here you can see it mounted in the car.






    Here how it looks with the panel mounted on top.
    You’d say -wait a minute, those are not Audiobahns anymore. Yes, one of the reasons that I gave them up was a heavy metal frame that goes around them. With that frame you could not fit the side panel back in. So take a note, you would need a subs with removable top plastic, which is not gonna be used, like those Rockford P28S4 that I picked instead.

    And, finally, the finished job!




    It has OEM look and has awesome sound!
    I have my stock monsoon amp replaced with aftermarket and have the front speakers rerouted to the HU. People without Monsoon system already have that done.

    3 Pros:
    </font>
    • Retain factory look with true subs behind</font>
    • Enough of the 8” subwoofers to choose from</font>
    • Does not take up extra space in the trunk</font>

    3 Cons:
    </font>
    • Body frame has to be cut</font>
    • Extra weight compare to the 6.5s</font>
    • Your neighbors might not like the extra base coming out of your car</font>


    [ October 07, 2005, 08:51 PM: Message edited by: iGoRa ]

  • #2
    all i see is X's

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    • #3
      same here
      <a href=\"http://cardomain.com/id/articacid\" target=\"_blank\">2002 35th Anniv. Black Camaro M5</a><br />Mods: Carsound Cat, SLP Loudmouth, Whisper Lid w/ K&N, J&M LCA\'s, ST Springs, eD Stereo(146.7 dB)<br />\'88 K1500 305 V8 Auto(Winter)

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      • #4
        fixed

        [ September 27, 2005, 11:40 AM: Message edited by: iGoRa ]

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        • #5
          Nice write up.
          2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

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          • #6
            very nice! does it cause more rattles odd?
            <a href=\"http://cardomain.com/id/articacid\" target=\"_blank\">2002 35th Anniv. Black Camaro M5</a><br />Mods: Carsound Cat, SLP Loudmouth, Whisper Lid w/ K&N, J&M LCA\'s, ST Springs, eD Stereo(146.7 dB)<br />\'88 K1500 305 V8 Auto(Winter)

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            • #7
              Eh, who cares what the neighbors think!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by articacid:
                very nice! does it cause more rattles odd?
                No, the sound is actually very good. I do have about 0.5in clearance between sub and the panel.

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                • #9
                  What dremel bits did you use to cut out the hole? I tried cutoff wheels last night and didn't get very far.
                  <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.chitownracing.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.chitownracing.com</a>

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                  • #10
                    Updated.

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                    • #11
                      This looks great, I'm very interested in doing this, as my 6.5's are starting to go.

                      Originally posted by iGoRa:

                      3 Cons:
                      </font>
                      • Body frame has to be cut</font>
                      My only concern is, does this actually hurt the car structurally in any way? I'm not really sure what it looks like structurally under the rear 1/4's. Any thoughts?
                      1997 Firebird, A4,WS6 Ram air hood, edelbrock catback, SLP CAI, 85 dry shot<br />1981 Firebird Trans Am<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/dreaded_hope\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/dreaded_hope</a>

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                      • #12
                        If you are concern about it – do just 1st cut and have speakers installed with mounting depth up to 3-5/8`

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                        • #13
                          Thats awesome. I've always thought about that but never seen it done.
                          2001 V6 Camaro - VTEC Badged, Abbott Racing Heads Sticker, and Loud A$$ Exhaust<br /><br /><b>BUILT NOT BOUGHT</b><br /><br />14.0 @ 96.44 MPH (Street Tires, Before Tranny)<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/6pakcamaro54\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/6pakcamaro54</a>

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