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Cool idea... only suggestion I have is when you buy the longer bolts, I would get higher grade automotive bolts. They sell them at most car stores, maybe not the length you want, but Lowes will most likely have them.
Its not as firm as a poly mount, but I bet its a good setup. I might be tempted to try it.
the point of the polymount is to be stiffer and with stiffness comes vibration. The rubber one is a "people friendly" mount not a performance mount. The rubber stock one absorbes the vibrations thus making it a comfy DD. Rubber also allows the tranny to move a littlebit which is why poly is better. Take my WS6 for example. I tore my rubber mount in half. Why? Because the rubber mount is a piece of **** and when I floor it my tranny jerks like a bull with a rider and ripped the pos in half. Poly is stronger, better and longer lasting. The only downfall of the poly is that it doesn't absorbe vibrations so the vibrations get transferred to the cabin.
By putting rubber imbetween the load plate and the mount itself you have basically negated the point of the polymount.
99 WS6
13.25@104.97 - Lid + soon to be more other stock items ;D
Originally posted by camaroextra
tears are great lube, but its hard to get a girl to cry onto her own ***.
Not really, its a lot less rubber than otherwise would normally be there, so it's still going to be a LOT stiffer, and it mainly raises it up. If you used a poly endlink kit, it would work fine and you wont have this issue. I like the idea, I just dont know how well I trust it.
the point of the polymount is to be stiffer and with stiffness comes vibration. The rubber one is a "people friendly" mount not a performance mount. The rubber stock one absorbes the vibrations thus making it a comfy DD. Rubber also allows the tranny to move a littlebit which is why poly is better. Take my WS6 for example. I tore my rubber mount in half. Why? Because the rubber mount is a piece of **** and when I floor it my tranny jerks like a bull with a rider and ripped the pos in half. Poly is stronger, better and longer lasting. The only downfall of the poly is that it doesn't absorbe vibrations so the vibrations get transferred to the cabin.
By putting rubber imbetween the load plate and the mount itself you have basically negated the point of the polymount.
FYI: engine and transmission as one piece has 3 point support system. 2 mounts upfront and one on the far back. 2 front ones hold the 90% of the powertrain and transfer the 90% of the torque to the frame, the rear one keeps the system leveled and prevents from moving the tail from side to side or up and down during driving and it is NOT designed to transfer engine torque to the frame - that’s engine mounts job. Lets take your WS6 for example, you tore your robber in half why? Because you are pushing more power to the ground as factory engine does causing front mounts to squeeze more than it suppose to or your front mounts are shot and of course your trans mount goes in two pieces and if you will put stock replacement back you will kill it too not because its “a piece of ****”, because you are fixing it in the wrong place. By putting robber under the poly I will raise the tail to the factory level, will remove the stress from crossbar, will let the engine mounts do their job, and at last will prevent cabin from vibrations. Energy suspension polymount was never designed for v6 fbody, by installing it alone you are violate engine transmission-rear end geometry and torque distribution. The symptoms are vibrations premature failing of RTS, Rear Pinion seal, yoke and yes you will loose few precious hps.
Dominic, I took those pictures after half a year of it on the road, and I did inspect it last week - they all are in same conditions as they were 9 month ago. No wear. If you are concerned , like I said , just use Energy suspension components all around.
I'm about to do this, can some one tell me how much longer the bolts need to be using the rubber bushings? Also maybe the size of the stud, so I don't have to take it off and go to the hardware store. Save me so time. Thanks Steve
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Found it on my own from parts manual, stock is M10x1 , so I think I need a M10x2. I think a extra inch should be enough.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Thought I would give an update on the poly swap. After the swap It did vibrate just a tad more but the shifts were firmer and alot smoother.I already have the ripper shifter. I retighten the bolts after a week which would of been around 300 miles and now there is no noticable vibration just cleaner and smoother shifts. Great mod. I only did 1 bushing between the poly mount and tranny to get the tranny at the right level. I didn't put a spacer between the bolt and poly mount. Great right up. Highly recommend. This was on a M5.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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