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Here's a writeup I made. Pics will follow soon.
1. Make sure you get the car securely supported on FOUR jackstands. You'll want the car at least 2 ft in the air if not 3. Unhook the Positive battery terminal!
2. Start by removing the shift knob, center console, and lower shift boot. The shift knob screws on, and the center console is held in by two 10mm bolts in the console itself.
3. Now take off the tunnel brace. It's on with four 15mm bolts. I haven't had one, so I skipped this step.
4. Now for the Torque Arm. There are two long bolts with nuts on them going thru the pumpkin holding them on. They are 13/16ths. Getting the nuts off is easy, but you have to
pull the bolts from the top. Jack the underbody up some to get more clearance, and they should come right out.
5. Now loosen the 13mm bolt on the Tranny's torque arm mount. The torque arm should slide out and off just fine now.
6. Now time for the drive shaft. It's held on by four 7/16th's bolts in the rear u-joints. Take them out, and then use a screwdriver to pry the driveshaft TOWARDs the trans. After
that lower it and pull it out of the trans. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A DRAIN PAN UNDER YOUR TAILSHAFT.
7. Wrap some tape around the u-joint so the bearings don't fall off.
8. Unplug your reverse light switch.
9. Now get a jack under the tranny. Jack it up a bit, and then pull off the trans crossmember. There is a 13mm bolt holding the tranny mount to the cross member, and the cross
member bolts to the unibody via four 15mm bolts.
10. Unhook your clutch line using a hysraulic line release tool, or in my case, a screwdriver.
11. Unbolt your inspection cover from the bellhousing.
12. Unbolt the lower mount bolts, there are four, all 15mm.
13. Lower the trans a bit, now you can get to all five bellhousing bolts using a two foot extension and a swivel. These bolts are all 18mm.
14. Now take off the shifter. there are four 10mm bolts holding it to the trans.
15. Pull the trans from the engine and lower it. Now get it out from under the car!
16. There are 6 bolts holding the clutch in. These are all 13mm. Pull them and the clutch out, be careful, it's a little heavy.
17. Now you have the flywheel. Pull it off. There are (or should be) eight 13mm bolts. The flywheel isn't light either.
18. Now put the new or resurfaced flywheel in. It only goes in one way so make sure you get everything lined up. Tighten the bolts.
19. Now for the new clutch. Get the Clutch plate up there and put the pressure plate over it. Put the alignment tool in and start all your bolts till they're finger tight.
20. Now tighten all your bolts in a cross pattern, just like tensioning a drum. Pull out the alignment tool.
21. Put some white lithium grease on the pilot bushing. Try to grease up your throw-out bearing, or replace it if needed. Check the slave cylinder too.
22. Now it's time to put the tranny back in. Get it under the car and up in place and then line it in. It might take some wiggling to get it to fit up again.
23. Put the bellhousing bolts back in.
24. Put the trans crossmember back in. Don't forget the tranny mount nut!
25. Top off any lost fluid from the trans.
26. Put the shifter back in. Don't forget to seal it with a continuous bead of Blue RTV silicone!
27. Bolt the lower brackets and inspection cover back up.
28. Put the driveshaft back in.
29. Reconnect the hydraulic clutch line.
30. Get the torque arm back in.
31. Now the tunnel brace.
32. LET THE CAR DOWN AND TAKE IT FOR A TEST DRIVE. Don't romp on it though, you'll want the new clutch plate to seat to the flywheel nicely.
Congratulations, you just replace your clutch and saved about $600 in shop labor!
Thanks guys, feel free to PM me with any questions, and as always, feedback is appreciated!
1. Make sure you get the car securely supported on FOUR jackstands. You'll want the car at least 2 ft in the air if not 3. Unhook the Positive battery terminal!
2. Start by removing the shift knob, center console, and lower shift boot. The shift knob screws on, and the center console is held in by two 10mm bolts in the console itself.
3. Now take off the tunnel brace. It's on with four 15mm bolts. I haven't had one, so I skipped this step.
4. Now for the Torque Arm. There are two long bolts with nuts on them going thru the pumpkin holding them on. They are 13/16ths. Getting the nuts off is easy, but you have to
pull the bolts from the top. Jack the underbody up some to get more clearance, and they should come right out.
5. Now loosen the 13mm bolt on the Tranny's torque arm mount. The torque arm should slide out and off just fine now.
6. Now time for the drive shaft. It's held on by four 7/16th's bolts in the rear u-joints. Take them out, and then use a screwdriver to pry the driveshaft TOWARDs the trans. After
that lower it and pull it out of the trans. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A DRAIN PAN UNDER YOUR TAILSHAFT.
7. Wrap some tape around the u-joint so the bearings don't fall off.
8. Unplug your reverse light switch.
9. Now get a jack under the tranny. Jack it up a bit, and then pull off the trans crossmember. There is a 13mm bolt holding the tranny mount to the cross member, and the cross
member bolts to the unibody via four 15mm bolts.
10. Unhook your clutch line using a hysraulic line release tool, or in my case, a screwdriver.
11. Unbolt your inspection cover from the bellhousing.
12. Unbolt the lower mount bolts, there are four, all 15mm.
13. Lower the trans a bit, now you can get to all five bellhousing bolts using a two foot extension and a swivel. These bolts are all 18mm.
14. Now take off the shifter. there are four 10mm bolts holding it to the trans.
15. Pull the trans from the engine and lower it. Now get it out from under the car!
16. There are 6 bolts holding the clutch in. These are all 13mm. Pull them and the clutch out, be careful, it's a little heavy.
17. Now you have the flywheel. Pull it off. There are (or should be) eight 13mm bolts. The flywheel isn't light either.
18. Now put the new or resurfaced flywheel in. It only goes in one way so make sure you get everything lined up. Tighten the bolts.
19. Now for the new clutch. Get the Clutch plate up there and put the pressure plate over it. Put the alignment tool in and start all your bolts till they're finger tight.
20. Now tighten all your bolts in a cross pattern, just like tensioning a drum. Pull out the alignment tool.
21. Put some white lithium grease on the pilot bushing. Try to grease up your throw-out bearing, or replace it if needed. Check the slave cylinder too.
22. Now it's time to put the tranny back in. Get it under the car and up in place and then line it in. It might take some wiggling to get it to fit up again.
23. Put the bellhousing bolts back in.
24. Put the trans crossmember back in. Don't forget the tranny mount nut!
25. Top off any lost fluid from the trans.
26. Put the shifter back in. Don't forget to seal it with a continuous bead of Blue RTV silicone!
27. Bolt the lower brackets and inspection cover back up.
28. Put the driveshaft back in.
29. Reconnect the hydraulic clutch line.
30. Get the torque arm back in.
31. Now the tunnel brace.
32. LET THE CAR DOWN AND TAKE IT FOR A TEST DRIVE. Don't romp on it though, you'll want the new clutch plate to seat to the flywheel nicely.
Congratulations, you just replace your clutch and saved about $600 in shop labor!
Thanks guys, feel free to PM me with any questions, and as always, feedback is appreciated!
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