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I'm finally gonna make it to the track for the first time. For drag or street racing, do ya'll just floor it the whole way, or is there another technique that I don't know about? My starts with the lights shouldn't be a problem. Go on the third light..It reminds me of BMX racing in some ways which I also do. Lol, I know BMX has nothing to do with car racing, but they're the same when it comes to timing the lights.
[ March 03, 2002: Message edited by: shortdog273 ]</p>
well there is a little technic you might try but you have to perfect it to make it work. Under full aceleration at 49 mph put it in neutral and then back into drive real fast just once though. a car was pulling on me one time and i did my technic and beat him. Work on it it helps.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Bradley Palmer: well there is a little technic you might try but you have to perfect it to make it work. Under full aceleration at 49 mph put it in neutral and then back into drive real fast just once though. a car was pulling on me one time and i did my technic and beat him. Work on it it helps.<hr></blockquote>
So should I have my foot on the gas when I shift into and from neutral? Or let off and as soon as I shift into drive back on again? Did someone tell you this or did you find this out on your own?
Keep it on the gas. All it is is like power shifting in a manual. It revs your rpms up a little and puts it to the ground quick. Just try it youll see what im saying. But i didnt say its easy sometimes it will over rev or not do it at all. I have it perfected now so its just natural to me. And trust me it helps when racing.
Ok, if you want to kill your trans, make sure you shift it out of D at WOT into N, then back into D all at WOT...
If you want a healthy trans, leave the damn thing IN GEAR.
A4, brake torque it as high as you can on the line, maybe 2000, 2500 ... without spinning the tires or moving.. then on the third yellow just release the brake and INSTANTLY hit the gas FULL HARD THROTTLE..
AFTER you cross the line, remove foot from gas, apply brake.
Do nothing else excpet for sip on some coffee, or change the radio station.. or fix your hair..
15 secs in an A4 is a while,.. so much time so many things to do.
Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Bradley Palmer: well there is a little technic you might try but you have to perfect it to make it work. Under full aceleration at 49 mph put it in neutral and then back into drive real fast just once though. a car was pulling on me one time and i did my technic and beat him. Work on it it helps.<hr></blockquote>
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Magnus: Ok, if you want to kill your trans, make sure you shift it out of D at WOT into N, then back into D all at WOT...
If you want a healthy trans, leave the damn thing IN GEAR.
A4, brake torque it as high as you can on the line, maybe 2000, 2500 ... without spinning the tires or moving.. then on the third yellow just release the brake and INSTANTLY hit the gas FULL HARD THROTTLE..
AFTER you cross the line, remove foot from gas, apply brake.
Do nothing else excpet for sip on some coffee, or change the radio station.. or fix your hair..
15 secs in an A4 is a while,.. so much time so many things to do.<hr></blockquote>
So would I need gel and a comp on hand for the hair fixing?
I recomend the Stylus 9000 Comb and the Foreverhold Extra Strenght Gel
--------------------
1997 firebird 3.8 A4
231.4 Cubic Inch 3.8
3.800 Bore
3.400 Stroke
9.4:1 Compression
32psi tire inflation
125mph speedo
60 oil psi at WOT
Average 165 degree coolant temp
Usually low fuel
Removed:
Front Sway Bar.
Front Sway Bar brackets.
Front Sway Bar bracket bolts.
Front Sway Bar Endlinks.
Front Sway Bar rust between brackets and frame
To Do:
Buy V8 Take off shocks (rear) from a new v8 car.
Install V8 take off shocks (rear) from a v8 car.
Bolt bottom shock bolt (rear) to spec
Tightem top shock nut (rear) to spec
Repeat above 4 for rear shock (right side).
Add fuel.
[ March 04, 2002: Message edited by: Magnus ]</p>
Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP
If you power brake at 2000 to 2500 rpm's your going to bog your engine. Rev it to 1700 that is perfect your tires dont spin and you are perfectly in the powerband and it wont have to drop back down from 2500 to 1700 its already there. Trust me dude racing is my life.
[img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] HAHAHA man you guys are too much just TOO much..... :smartass mode :D OM didnt you just post something in the lounge about sigs ? :rolleyes: :end smartass mode:
AIS 2 OHH the memories... Great times and putting names with faces.<p>From \"interesting\" hooters waitress(Did you guys FLY ? ) to pissing BMW owners off on the ride home. To ending up in Philidelphia and USING (hahaha) an ice machine. I had a BLAST.<p>Thanxs to all that showed up!!
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4 weeks ago
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