I SUCK

[Shirl]

Only got 2 runs in tonight cuz it was Packed!! First run was a 13.0 @ 105 (w/a sh*tty 2.0 60ft) and second run I lost control of the car and had to let off.. ran a 14. something.. didn't even look at the slip. Anyway, I need to put slicks on this car.. I used street radials on the rear and that was a BIG MISTAKE. I'm considering putting the BFG drag radials on some Welds to match the front. Cripes, one of these days, I'll get it right [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img]

[Tiago]

slicks help alot... maybe I should consider some too

I still can't get below a 2.2 60 ft with drag radials...ugh

[OnixV6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Shirl:
Cripes, one of these days, I'll get it right [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img] <hr></blockquote>

how about tomorrow @ E-town GMHTP event? that's a good day. :D

[black97cam]

complaining about a 13!!! UGH! I WISH my car could do those numbers!

[Bill Spano]

Shirl,

I would reconsider getting slicks. I would go with drag radials and upgrade your suspension before getting slicks.

As you already know slicks on our 7.5-inch (Vega) toy rearends with power adders out of the hole increases the possibility of blowing our rearends and slicks on our cars without power adders out of the hole will be to much tire and reduce our 60-foot times.

A pair of drag radials and some fine-tuning of your suspension would work better plus the drag radials are more forgiving for our rearends then the slicks.

Since I don't remember your suspension mods, below is a list of mods that work great.

1) Hotchkis Trailing Arms and Panhard Bar
2) ES Polyurethane transmission and torque arm mounts
3) Competition Engineering 3-way adjustable drag shocks (rear) set for 60/40
4) BMR Adjustable lower control arm relocation brackets
5) Nitto drag radials
6) Right side rear air bag
7) Double Diamond subframe connectors
8) Remove front sway bar

To explain the LCA relocation brackets, they allow you to change the instant center of the car along with allowing you to pre-load the suspension so your car can react faster when launching.

One side note, if your car is not lowered and you install a pair of relocation brackets on your car, use only the top hole on the relocation bracket. The lower hole is used to correct suspension geometry for lowered cars only and can reduce performance on non-lowered cars.

Back to your original post, I would reconsider getting slicks.


Bill Spano

BAD 2000 WS6 12.380@110.91, best 60ft 1.676 (spinning), 325 RWHP, 343.4 RWTQ
http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=332

V6 Revenge 13.967@90.42 60ft 1.779
http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=257

[Shirl]

Thanks Bill.. suspension is on the "to do" list also. I have no suspension work at all. It's bone stock. I'll look into some of the parts you listed. BTW, nice 1.6 60ft!

[jughead]

Shril, ET streets are the best thing to slick next to ET drags.... and ET streets are daily drivering legal...

[Bill Spano]

Shirl,

I assure you if you install the suspension mods I suggested and buy a pair of drag radials that you will average low 1.7 60-foot times and on a perfect day get a high 1.6 60-foot.

Remember a .10 reduction in 60-foot time equals a .15 reduction in ET. With that formula and your best times you'll be running 12.60's all day.

BTW, if you can handle a little noise from your suspension during daily driving you may want to consider getting some rod ended chrome molly adjustable BMR trailing arms instead of the Hotchkis trailing arms.


Bill Spano

BAD 2000 WS6 12.380@110.91, best 60ft 1.676 (spinning), 325 RWHP, 343.4 RWTQ (stock)
http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=332

V6 Revenge 13.967@90.42 60ft 1.779
http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=257

[MustangEater8251]

I agree go straight to suspension. I am amazed you got a 13 with a stock suspension.

just curious are you running a stock tranny mount? if so I bet you tore it to hell, I replaced my broken one and reduced my 60" by .2-.3 seconds.

[Roy]

i would try out MT Sportsmans, or stay with a drag radial. nittos DO hook if you heat them right and launch precisly. Ive cut 1.55s on them, even with a 245-16" set. Also stiffen up your rear suspension a little. good luck.

[Pro Stock John]

I've gone a 1.71 and that was with feathering them out of the hole with my setup.

Do you have 15's in back?

Magnus' 15x8 Pro Stars fit in back with no grinding. I'd get 275-50-15 Nitto drag radials and run them at 17psi cold. I'd do a 5 second burnout the first time.

If you floor it out of the hole and spin, check the tire pressure and if they grew too much hot, say more than 2 psi, then try a little lower but I would not go lower than 15psi cold. Also need to air the tires up before you drive home. I drive with them at 25psi. I get even wear that way.

If you still can't floor it with them at 15psi cold, then you need to practice rolling out.

I'd hold the rpms out of the hole at like 1500 rpms, and then you want to launch, release the brake but don't completely floor it, floor it after the car has some momentum. I'm sure you can go mid 1.7's doing that if not better.