I want to run atleast a 13.9 this is at 4,400 ft. elevation. It would be equivilent to running a 13.2 at sea level track. So anyone that has ran a 13.2 or better please respond with every single mod you have including technique if there is anythiung special. Thanks.
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WOW! by looking at the timeslips page thers only about 5 of you running this fast. Ahh, shucks this is going to be hard. Well anyone with helpfull info on things that might help me in this long hard and expensive journey please respond. Thanks.
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well i would run lower then 13.4 if i could get traction but i cant hit the nitrous till after 60ft. My mods are in sig and times and im pretty much at sea levelPast Ride
1995 Firebird A4 3.8 Turbocharged -- 12.50 at 108
(If you dont know me, you haven't had a V6 long enough)
Current Ride
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution GSR
www.myspace.com/shane1015
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TURBO! They aren't nearly as sensitive to altitude as NA, and superchargers. They do loose a little.
Turbo and a little happy gas, headers and slicks.
If you notice, the fastest ETs have some kick @ss 60ft times. You want to be in the 1.8s.
This is just my opinion though. ;)
DEE1997 GTP(13.3@104)-Sold<br />1999 Trans Am M6
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the faster you accelerate in the first 60 ft., the quicker you can get up yo higher speeds. get as much traction stuff as you can(torque arm, panhard rod, lca's, rear swaybar). these will help you hook up better and get better 60 ft. times. then get more power adders such as heads/cam, roller rockers, headers, ect. taller rear gears help a lot too.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headers
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by pgriffith:
Why do you think that is? Because I have heard the same thing from this guy that has a Grand National Turbo.<hr></blockquote>
Because turbos spin independently of engine RPM, roots and Centrifugals do not. So a turbo will spool up to a certain psi, no matter the elevation. The greater efficiency also helps as well. Because at high elevations, 12psi is less dense than 12psi at sea level. If you can crank the boost up to equal the same density as sea level(lets say 16psi), you should make a similar amount of power. And since the turbo is very efficient, you don't lose as much as you would with a blower. Mainly do to volumetric and adiabetic efficiency.
DEE1997 GTP(13.3@104)-Sold<br />1999 Trans Am M6
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in more of an English content for turbo/SC beginners (such as myself ;) )... it takes power to make power with a SC. For example: air conditioning draws hp from the engine to cool the cab. a supercharger draws power when belt-driven in the same manor. I need to do more homework on turbos before I say anything but from what I hear, they draw less power and as already stated, they are more efficient as they're a little easier to adjust and whatnot...1994 Camaro 3.4L M5 R.I.P.<br />You know what they say- a small engine means big... errr... e/t\'s<br /><a href=\"http://www.pbase.com/rrj72/the_accident\" target=\"_blank\">www.pbase.com/rrj72/the_accident</a><p>replaced with: red 97 A4 vert (my brothers as soon as i find my REAL replacement)<p>soon to come: 1969 RS/SS<p>\"All you need are the esentials: scented candles, massage oil, and Berry White write that down.\" -Van Wilder
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turbo's run off of your exhaust. superchargers run off of the crankshaft. the turbo uses the exhaust's energy to spool it up and make boost. more air into the engine=more air out of engine=more air spooling up turbo. so when the turbo kicks in w/ just the engine sucking air in, the turbo will ad even more air into the engine and it just continues to increase in that pattern. a sc uses the crankshaft to turn it. the good things about sc's is that you will know for sure when you will make x amount of boost, turbo's rely on the exhaust to spin it, so it's not as easy to figure out. pro's for turbo=lots of high end, uses wasted exhaust energy, great efficiency. cons of turbo=may not pass smog, increase in backpressure into engine at higher rpm's. pro's of sc=linear or predictable power curve, positive crankcase pressure. con's of sc=draws power off crank, not as efficient.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headers
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Patrick Javert:
turbo's run off of your exhaust. superchargers run off of the crankshaft. the turbo uses the exhaust's energy to spool it up and make boost. more air into the engine=more air out of engine=more air spooling up turbo. so when the turbo kicks in w/ just the engine sucking air in, the turbo will ad even more air into the engine and it just continues to increase in that pattern. a sc uses the crankshaft to turn it. the good things about sc's is that you will know for sure when you will make x amount of boost, turbo's rely on the exhaust to spin it, so it's not as easy to figure out. pro's for turbo=lots of high end, uses wasted exhaust energy, great efficiency. cons of turbo=may not pass smog, increase in backpressure into engine at higher rpm's. pro's of sc=linear or predictable power curve, positive crankcase pressure. con's of sc=draws power off crank, not as efficient.<hr></blockquote>
ever heard of a wastegate for that turbo? yeah, keep addin more air in, once you hit ~12 psi on stock internals or less, maybe more, ,goobye engine :rolleyes:2011 Camaro LS 6M, in black.
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true, but it's also a question of where in the powerband you wanna kit 12 psi. a smaller exducer housing or a bigger compressor wheel will help spool up faster. It's also a question of how much backpressure you want.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headers
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Tranny is holdin up fine. I have all the mods in the sig and the nitrous is running a 75 shot. Seems to be holdin up. I am running street tires stock rear end, suspension. 60' are about 2.2 is my best. What can I do to get it better? How would a clutch be better? I thought its just stronger. Would it really help or just hold up better?
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I think you are fine with your sotck limited slip. I liked the upgrade to 3.42s over my stock 3.23s on my 5-speed.
What kind of street tires are you running, you may want something like drag radials. you are getting fast enough where they might be useful.
bigger rear sway bar, lower control arms, with stornger bushings, pnahard rod, torque arm bushing, or aftermarket torque arm will all help you with better traction allowing you to launch at a higher RPM and help your 60's.
torque arm bushing will help you get the pwower to the ground better, not sure if oyu have a 1le or syteel driveshaft but both will help with less drivetrain loss, and with the power you are making maybe safer.
A centerforce dual friction will alow less slippage in your clutch, you may not be feeling much lost but I am sure there is some. I have heard of some z28 people gaining a 1/10th or too, with a better clutch.
Subframe connectors might help a little bit too.
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