video and details of my dissapointing trip to the track

[NBMA4V6]

went to the track..weather was not that great but that doesnt excuse the ****tiness,

things since last trip to track. 3500 vigilante, LCA's and BFG's

ran like *** ..every run no matter what i launched at was 2.0 60' and 15.0 1/4

launced at 1200, 1500, 2000, 2600, 3000, and as high as it would go dont know what that one was

the change in time varied by no more than .02 no matter the launch RPM

lol is all i can do

times will improve hopefully..

:mad:

[Magnus]

Post all your timeslips.

Were you spinning? Was traction the issue? How about MPH?

I think you need to learn how to launch a verter'd car.

brake torque to 1300'ish.. then at the same time let go of the brake and FLOOOOOR IT HARD!!! If your spinning you need more tire.. Do longer burnouts and lower the tire PSI.

[DEE97GTP]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by NBMA4V6:

the change in time varied by no more than .02 no matter the launch RPM
<hr></blockquote>

You need to get into a bracket racing class! ;)

DEE

[NBMA4V6]

timeslips in no particular order, and i lost one somehow
run 1 2 3 4 5
60' 2.06 2.05 2.03 2.02 2.03
1/8 9.58 9.59 9.54 9.52 9.56
MPH 71.87 71.77 71.96 72.1 71.74
1/4 15.1 15.1 15.07 15.05 15.01
MPH 88.25 88.29 88.4 88.46 88.24

humidity was horrible..car covered in water by 7:30.. still times are crappy.. again those times are not in order..they cut the clock off of them

i did good burnouts on the bfg's they smoked nicely..i spun the first time cause i did a crappy burnout. but the rest were either very very little or none..

[v6stanger]

I know with my 3k stall converter I get the best results just launching at idle and letting the converter shoot up to the stall speed.

Iam pulling 2.0's this way on crappy mustang suspension and bald 17's(WAY BALD!) on the motor and I pull 1.8's on the nitrous on the same set-up with no slicks or DR's.

I would just give it a shot and see what happens.

Also i know my converter didnt "wake up" until after a thousand miles when the clutches on the converter weere broken in. I first went to the track after only about 200 miles on the converter and barely saw an improvemnt in times. Theni went bck after it was broken in and saw 3 tenths off my 60' since the last time with the converter.

Zach

[ November 12, 2002: Message edited by: v6stanger ]</p>

[JuicedV6]

Definatyl need to experiment launching with that big of a verter [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] practice practice practice :D

[99Camaro99]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by v6stanger:
Iam pulling 2.0's this way on crappy mustang suspension and bald 17's(WAY BALD!) on the motor and I pull 1.8's on the nitrous on the same set-up with no slicks or DR's.<hr></blockquote>

For either the V6 stang or F-body, I wouldn't recommend running 17s if you're looking for performance. Try 16" tires instead and see if it improves your times...plus it should save you some money!

[img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[slacker69]

when i got my converter it took along time till i got good 60 foots I was at 2.0 when i got the converter and after a long time now i pull 1.86 60 foots on all motor and 1.71 on nitrous

[Only4U]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by v6stanger:
Also i know my converter didnt "wake up" until after a thousand miles when the clutches on the converter weere broken in.
<hr></blockquote>

FYI, once your car is started and that first rush of tranny fluid hits the clutches inside the torque converter, it is broken in; it doesn't take time to do that.

[v6stanger]

Only4U that is not the case at all. The clutches have a coating on them thats makes them stick within the first few hundred miles. That is why you often get "chatter" when the converter is first installed because the clutches are still sticking and not letting the converter slip as much as it should hence getting better 60' times after the clutches are worn in. You could even call Precision industries yourself and ask.

The converter is of course broken in once the fluid hits it but it is not performing up to its full capability until you get some miles and some wear on the clutches.

I'm no newbie at this stuff only a newbie to this board.

yes I know these 17's are killing the potential and some 15's will go on soon with some 26x8.5 ET streets.

Thanks,

Zach

[ November 12, 2002: Message edited by: v6stanger ]</p>

[NBMA4V6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by v6stanger:
Only4U that is not the case at all. The clutches have a coating on them thats makes them stick within the first few hundred miles. That is why you often get "chatter" when the converter is first installed because the clutches are still sticking and not letting the converter slip as much as it should hence getting better 60' times after the clutches are worn in. You could even call Precision industries yourself and ask.

<hr></blockquote>


O goodness here comes the edge talk ;) converter may be broken in according to company but after some miles and some wear on the clutches it will be better..

and o yeah quit hijacking my thread :mad:

[Only4U]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by v6stanger:
Only4U that is not the case at all. The clutches have a coating on them thats makes them stick within the first few hundred miles. That is why you often get "chatter" when the converter is first installed because the clutches are still sticking and not letting the converter slip as much as it should hence getting better 60' times after the clutches are worn in. You could even call Precision industries yourself and ask.

The converter is of course broken in once the fluid hits it but it is not performing up to its full capability until you get some miles and some wear on the clutches.

I'm no newbie at this stuff only a newbie to this board.

yes I know these 17's are killing the potential and some 15's will go on soon with some 26x8.5 ET streets.

Thanks,

Zach

[ November 12, 2002: Message edited by: v6stanger ]<hr></blockquote>

i disagree, but i'm gonna keep my mouth shut on this one cause i don't want to feed into jeff's post about some BS that could be discussed in the drivetrain forum; so if you wanna argue with me, move there and i'll give you plenty of argument; otherwise, i'm done with this subject.

also--i'm no newby either at this stuff, so don't think you know everything. i may act like i do know all sometimes, but i do not. different converters are different ways, PI may be like that, others may not.

jeff--maybe over time, driving habits and "breaking in" the converter will give you better results--maybe not. i dunno, good luck regardless. don't let the times get ya down; i was running the same times practically when i first went with my converter minus the lca's. keep practicing, will get better! [img]smile.gif[/img]

EDIT: hey jeff, i did pretty good considering i didn't mention the word ed** once, didn't i? ;)

[ November 13, 2002: Message edited by: Only4U ]</p>

[WickEdSix9838]

converters dont need to be broke it...the difference in the stall is made by the different angles of the fins in the converter, when the converter spins, the fluid runs over those fins causing whatever happens inside the converter to happen, so if the converter is spinning, its gonna be doing the same thing regardless if its new or not...

[NBMA4V6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by WickEdSix9838:
converters dont need to be broke it...the difference in the stall is made by the different angles of the fins in the converter, when the converter spins, the fluid runs over those fins causing whatever happens inside the converter to happen, so if the converter is spinning, its gonna be doing the same thing regardless if its new or not...<hr></blockquote>

im glad we have so many converter experts here on this board..where were you guys when i was asking what to get??? the fact is they dont need to be broken in to use them but they get better and better with time.. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]