WTF? Times hardly improved any over 3.08/open to 3.42/lsd

[xjarayax]

Went back to the track tonight, first time since the new gears... took out jack/spare, let the engine cool down for a good while.

Runs on 3.08/open best time:

15.6 @ 87 or 88
2.3 60 ft

Runs on 3.42/LSD
15.54 @ 87
2.3 60 ft

Weather was great, too, like 50 degrees, I'm a little pissed off :(

[99Camaro99]

sure you didn't have 3.42s to begin with! [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[xjarayax]

GU4

[HAZ-Matt]

I don't think they prep the track on Wednesday nights at RCR...

[12secondv6]

Don't be dissappointed.
There are SOOOOO many other factors that cause et's
Weather
Traction
Tire psi
Engine temp
Humidity
Track prep
Barometric pressure
Launch techniques
Shifting
And so on.
Don't let those times bum you out, go back 1 or 2 more times and see what happens.
You can't run new best's each time out, trust me, I know this

[Only4U]

that's how racing goes. you never do as well as you'd like to be doing.

[12secondv6]

My 100 shot spun to a 12.49
My 125 shot spun to a 12.48
I was EXTREMELY dissappointed.
Trust me I know this very well

[MustangEater8251]

Jsut go back and practice...

When I first got my 3.42s, I hit a 16 flats abotu a 1/10th better then my best, then hit a 15.8, then a 15.7, then a 15.6 all with no mods.

Jsut practice, you basically got yourself a "new car" and expect to know how to launch it the first night out?

[xjarayax]

Anothing thing that boggles me is that on my 3.08/open differential times, it was much hotter and more humid AND i had my stiff firehawk springs/shocks in the back but the spongy v6 springs in the front (worst possible weight transfer) and now I have firehawk suspension all around.

I tried putting the Kumhos in the rear at different PSI levels but that didn't help, I just couldn't cut a good 60ft for anything. I know the Kumhos supposedly suck for traction but they have a LOT of tread and its the same tire I cut the old times with, except on an open differential.

I made sure to roll around the waterpit and spin the tires just to get the crap off them, footbraked to 1.5K and the stomped on it on the third yellow but it didn't really make a difference.

Sam

edit: there was also a guy there with a near stock 2001 Z28 with a catback and intake that pulled a 12.7 on street tires so I know the track couldn't have been too bad last night.

[ January 30, 2003: Message edited by: xjarayax ]</p>

[MustangEater8251]

Just keep practicing, I yielded mor of an improvement, and I only went form 3.23s-3.42s.

[67-03 RIP]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Anothing thing that boggles me is that on my 3.08/open differential times, it was much hotter and more humid AND i had my stiff firehawk springs/shocks in the back but the spongy v6 springs in the front (worst possible weight transfer) and now I have firehawk suspension all around. <hr></blockquote>

Actually, for weight transfer in drag racing you'd want the spongy V6 stuff in front. Alot of drag cars run front shocks that are 90/10 to 70/30 (not good on the street). You could always try taking off the front swaybar or at least loosening the mounts to minimize it's effectiveness (un-effectiveness in this case)

Ron

[MustangEater8251]

Jsut pop off the endlinks... I used to do this but stopped becasue my car didn't really need it and too much work for me to feel any gains.

But it might work for you I assume you are putting down mroe pwoer then my 3.4L

[xjarayax]

Here are the real slips of the two best times for last night:

Reaction: .5730
60 FT: 2.3318
1/8TH: 9.9369 @ 70.78
1/4TH: 15.5382 @ 87.31
-----------------------
Reaction: .5522
60 FT: 2.3123
1/8TH: 9.9343 @ 70.68
1/4TH: 15.5487 @ 87.09

Anyone analyze by all the numbers? I did experiment a lot on launching but it's still pretty sad.

Sam

[Supersix]

I think your 60' should be a little lower than 2.3x. Either you spun too much, or your car bogged down some. Are you sure you didn't have your tire PSI too high? Maybe you had some wheelhop?

[Only4U]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 67-03 RIP:
You could always try taking off the front swaybar <hr></blockquote>

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
Jsut pop off the endlinks... <hr></blockquote>

firstly, i do not advise taking the sway bar off at all. it is a complete waste of time if you aren't pulling sub 2 second 60fts with skinnies.

taking off the endlinks--also a waste of time if you don't meet the above criteria. sway bar has 2 purposes--neither which really benefit the mass amount of torque the v6 has [img]tongue.gif[/img] (that is, unless, you are having traction issues and are using skinnies)

a. to help the weight transfer from the front of the car to the rear wheels.

b. to knock off 9.xx lbs of weight on your already near 2 ton car.

therefore, if you are going to take a sway bar off, only undo ONE endlink, not both of them, and then a. will be met. b is totally not worth it for the work involved.

once again, if you aren't spinning off the line, you don't need to do this. if you are spinning off the line, and your 60fts are remotely close to 2.0x, then there are still tons of ways to help traction first...such as the springs.

everyone assumes sam is having traction problems...he has yet to speak of these traction issues yet. therefore, it's retarted to tell him to take measures to cure traction problems when no traction problems exist! sam's times are obviously caused by something else...something we cannot diagnose obviously.

[ January 30, 2003: Message edited by: Only4U ]</p>