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I run a short belt for time to time at the track. When I run with the short belt I gain about 4 hundreds consistently. The problem with running a short belt or no belt is the car will at WOT will run leaner. If your car is not tuned right or something to compensate for the leaner condition you could see no gain or actually run worse.
Eric
Eric
2005 Mustang 4.0
1996 Camaro Conv
2000 Ford Excursion
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by merlinsrealm: I run a short belt for time to time at the track. When I run with the short belt I gain about 4 hundreds consistently. The problem with running a short belt or no belt is the car will at WOT will run leaner. If your car is not tuned right or something to compensate for the leaner condition you could see no gain or actually run worse.
Eric<hr></blockquote>
what does your short belt drive? waterpump? alternator? that's wierd why it goes leaner..
I have pulled my belt makes a huge difference, but only on test passes on a back road, the engine temps jump nearly as fast as the tach. I probably only midway 3rd when I decided I better stop. [img]smile.gif[/img]
IT made a big difference on my car according to my assometer, I woudl say maybe even more then a 2/10ths... If I coudl run a short belt I would, but my waterpump cranks opposite my crank.
Jsut go on a back road pull your belt run like an 1/8th and then put it back on. Also its power the whole power range, since its not really a gain, but less of a waste on the accessories.
So long as your battery is in good condition and you have at least 12.50 volts at the time of removing the belt. Aren't running any unneccesary equipment like a stereo, or show lights etc. You shouldn't have any problems and cause NO damage to your battery, alternator, charging system in general or computer.
GM High Tech Performance (Nov. 98)
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>With the air filter out and the serpentine belt off, the V6 responded after a cooldown with a 15.03/91.0<hr></blockquote>
<b>15.41</b> @ 89.80 & 15.45 @ <b>91.64</b>, 2.21 60ft, 3,440 raceweight, using <b>OEM</b> Equipment. <br />\'98 L67/M49 w/ 134,000 miles before spun bearing. \"<i>It\'s all stock, Baby</i>!\"
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Bliggida: So long as your battery is in good condition and you have at least 12.50 volts at the time of removing the belt. Aren't running any unneccesary equipment like a stereo, or show lights etc. You shouldn't have any problems and cause NO damage to your battery, alternator, charging system in general or computer.
GM High Tech Performance (Nov. 98) <hr></blockquote>
Sure woudl be fine jsut becareful doing it back to back.
ok thanks for all the responses! this definitly sounds worth it for the $75 universal electric water pump. i can't wait to try this out in the spring! it'd be nice to get a dyno with the belt off too, just outta curiousity...sometime early spring ;)
But I would be leary of any electric waterpump. I would rather trust a name brand such as CSI, Meizer, Moroso etc. Those waterpumps near 300 dollar price range.
So a bargain $75 pump - realize that you may get what you pay for.
<b>15.41</b> @ 89.80 & 15.45 @ <b>91.64</b>, 2.21 60ft, 3,440 raceweight, using <b>OEM</b> Equipment. <br />\'98 L67/M49 w/ 134,000 miles before spun bearing. \"<i>It\'s all stock, Baby</i>!\"
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Bliggida: Yes Chuck.
But I would be leary of any electric waterpump. I would rather trust a name brand such as CSI, Meizer, Moroso etc. Those waterpumps near 300 dollar price range.
So a bargain $75 pump - realize that you may get what you pay for.<hr></blockquote>
Where can I get these waterpumps? And will they be a direct swap on my 3.8?
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