Anyone here done this? The hold-down on the front of my battery is broken, so on a hard launch the battery flips back and the positive terminal grounds on the A/C accumulator. The only way to replace the hold-down is to replace the coolant reservoir as well (about $35 from dealer). I could use the weight off the nose, but is it worth the trouble to put the battery in the back? What else do I need to do to make it NHRA legal? I heard once that if the battery is relocated then there has to be a cutoff switch on the back of the car?? Any opinions/advice?
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To be NHRA legal, you need to have it in a approved containter that is secured by some form of a hold down. And yes, you do need to have a external rear mounted cutoff switch. By the time you run all the wiring, the weight savings are negligible.<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.chitownracing.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.chitownracing.com</a>
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I tried it with the generic Summit relocation kit. Couldn't get it to work well. It would crank over about 10 times or so before it would start. I didn't like that much. A lot of headache, eventually moved it back to the front.
Was using an Optima Redtop, too.
I think the problem was not having a good enough ground in the back, our cars are not unibody, and therefore that causes a grounding problem.AIM: escalier deverre<br />\'02 Pearl Blue Metallic RSX-S (daily driver)<br />\'98 Black Firebird<br />98 V6 turbocharged to 02 LS1 swap<br />\'02 LS1/4L60E<br />LS6 Block, LS6 Intake Manifold, Thunder Racing 215/220 .600/.523/115 Cam, Titanium Retainers, Crane Double Valve Springs, 125 shot NX Wet Kit w/ NOS brand Purge, True Dual \"H\" Pipe w/ two chambers and dumps, 17x11(rear) and 17x9.5(front) Black Powdercoated ZR1 Replicas on 315 and 275 BFGoodrich Comp T/A\'s (Street)/ET Drags/Skinnies on Weldlites(Track), 3.42/LSD
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I have moved my battery to the trunk and it is definetly a weight advantage your talking about moving 35lbs or more to the rear which creates at least a 70lbs weight shift. There are switches that use a T handle that you could make come through the floor to handle the cutoff switch. Tha starter is where I ran my + line to and that did away with the clicking problem I had. What happens, is if you dont ground the cable or use a large enough gage you will lose amps to the front of the car, to avoid this you can easliy mount a ford battery solenoid up front as a main + connection for your car which will help with the cranking problem or you can try what I did. #1 thing to get is a bigger cranking amp battery.Msd wires,Summit coils,Cuctom CIA&longtubes 2.5inch w/side exit,Cam,Heads & Intake,30# injectors,reprogrammed computer,3400 edge Converter, 3.73\'s&LSD,Edlebrock torque arm, SLP LCA\'s,Jegs panhard bar,16 inch nittos Best ET 14.374 @94 <br />Best 60\' 1.91
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the rules about an approved container are dependant upon where you put the battery. on thirdgens we tend to use the spare tire well, this does not require a box because the body panels are considered a "firewall". the safety switch is a definate must.
one of the biggest mistakes peopel make when they relo is using crappy wire. you need to find 1gauge cable, most kits coem with 1 or 2 gauge "welders cable" which is harder to work and has a greater resistance. good wire is pricey, but totally worth it. you can get it at any good stereo shop.
later
timNJ SPEEDER<br />1976 Camaro LT<br />Crate 350, TH350, 3.90 posi<br />New Jersey F-Body Owners Association<br /><a href=\"http://www.NJFBOA.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.NJFBOA.org</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by xjarayax:
I tried it with the generic Summit relocation kit. Couldn't get it to work well. It would crank over about 10 times or so before it would start. I didn't like that much. A lot of headache, eventually moved it back to the front.
Was using an Optima Redtop, too.
I think the problem was not having a good enough ground in the back, our cars are not unibody, and therefore that causes a grounding problem.<hr></blockquote>
Me too, I tried summit's kit + flaming river battery cut off switch.
Weight transfer ROCKED!!!
Starting sucked :(Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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Cracked lip?
Cheap fix, is wedge a roll of electrical tape, between the frame behind the headlight, and the battery, then put a generic 2 pin battery hod down form advanced auto for liek $3, and jsut force it under the lip of the battery tray.
Works great! Past tech with it a many times autocrossing, and that is the thing they check the hardest. [img]smile.gif[/img]
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James, I assume you aren't using it anymore?? Do you still have the cutoff switch? (would you be interrested in selling it?) Where did you put the switch?-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
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Let's bring this back up-- I'd really love to get my battery in the back again if we can find a sure way to make it reliable starting.
I think my ground cable was 2 ga?AIM: escalier deverre<br />\'02 Pearl Blue Metallic RSX-S (daily driver)<br />\'98 Black Firebird<br />98 V6 turbocharged to 02 LS1 swap<br />\'02 LS1/4L60E<br />LS6 Block, LS6 Intake Manifold, Thunder Racing 215/220 .600/.523/115 Cam, Titanium Retainers, Crane Double Valve Springs, 125 shot NX Wet Kit w/ NOS brand Purge, True Dual \"H\" Pipe w/ two chambers and dumps, 17x11(rear) and 17x9.5(front) Black Powdercoated ZR1 Replicas on 315 and 275 BFGoodrich Comp T/A\'s (Street)/ET Drags/Skinnies on Weldlites(Track), 3.42/LSD
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Screw relocation -- I have a 10.8 lb or so Harken Genesis battery. Cost me actually $24 shipped or so from e-bay (yes, 24), and dropped maybe 20 lbs or so. Never had a starting / cranking problem.
-Rob<b>97 Camaro 3.8L M5</b><br />Car for sale<a href=\"http://terpmotors.com\" target=\"_blank\">terpmotors.com</a> Terrapin Motorsports! UMCP
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