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  • #16
    rear dr's were 30psi...

    merlin
    2002 Firebird<br />2003 Yamaha YZF 600R

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    • #17
      Merly, it's your tranny dude. Those 1-2 and 2-3 shifts you kept running into problems with - that kills your E.T.

      If you had a shift kit (I like Trans-Go) You'd easily hit 14.6-14.7 Nearing Mustang GT territory.
      <b>15.41</b> @ 89.80 & 15.45 @ <b>91.64</b>, 2.21 60ft, 3,440 raceweight, using <b>OEM</b> Equipment. <br />\'98 L67/M49 w/ 134,000 miles before spun bearing. \"<i>It\'s all stock, Baby</i>!\"

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      • #18
        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Bliggida:
        Merly, it's your tranny dude. Those 1-2 and 2-3 shifts you kept running into problems with - that kills your E.T.

        If you had a shift kit (I like Trans-Go) You'd easily hit 14.6-14.7 Nearing Mustang GT territory.
        <hr></blockquote>

        i know thats my next mod, besides the hoos, then some tuning schitt, maybe maft+ ot mini afc...

        merlin
        2002 Firebird<br />2003 Yamaha YZF 600R

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        • #19
          YO merlin, any idea on how to not have one of your radiator hoses bust on your fourth run. Waiting for advice...

          Kris :D

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          • #20
            ummmmm, not do what you did, did u get home ok? and have you gotten it fixed yet?

            merlin
            2002 Firebird<br />2003 Yamaha YZF 600R

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            • #21
              i would suggest lookin into soem suspension mods. the car has plenty of power to go well into teh 14's with that mph, but you are not getting off the line very well.
              from teh looks of your mph, your car is easily capable of cutting consistant 1.95ish 60ft's at least. prolly shoudl see a best of around 1.92ish.
              that tenth off a second off teh line will be worth 2-3 tenths by the end of the track. that prolly sounds more like the kinds of times you are lookin for.

              later
              tim [img]graemlins/fluffy.gif[/img]
              NJ SPEEDER<br />1976 Camaro LT<br />Crate 350, TH350, 3.90 posi<br />New Jersey F-Body Owners Association<br /><a href=\"http://www.NJFBOA.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.NJFBOA.org</a>

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              • #22
                what else for susp. do i need?

                current suspension mods...

                BMR Lower Control Arms poly/rubber
                BMR Relocation Brackets for the lower control arms
                BMR Strut Tower Brace
                BMR Panhard Rod poly
                BMR Sub-Frame Connectors
                polyurethane torque arm bushing
                polyurethane transmission mount
                1LE Sway bars(32/21) w/polyurethane bushings/endlinks

                merlin
                2002 Firebird<br />2003 Yamaha YZF 600R

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                • #23
                  Man, I need your freakin suspension mods. I spin unbelievably off the line. My best time is 15.42 I should run at least 15 flat. I spin so bad last time we went to the track my best 60 ft was 2.3 and that is with 3.73's. that sucks ***
                  2001 3.8L Firebird M5<br />Flowmaster 80 series,exhaust cutout,catco hi-flow cat,tbyrne WRA,whisper lid,K&N filter,BMR LCA\'s,Ram air H.O. hood,3.73 gears with LSD 17\" by 9 1/2\" TT2\'s<br />Rockford 300s with 2 12\" JL audio W3v2 subs and JVC HU

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                  • #24
                    try dropping the front sway bar off next time you hit the track.
                    your suspension is really nice sounding, car prolly handles liek a dream.
                    it is jsut that a bit of the balance for drag racing will rely on having a bit of front end travel to get weight transfered onto the rear tires.
                    you may also wanna try pumping up the air pressure in teh front tires to 50psi or so. it makes the tires easier to get rolling and will help the car roll out with a little more mph down track.
                    the biggest thing you can do to help your et is take your time staging. get as shallow as possible. the difference between being deep and shallow at teh tree is usually 2 tenths or so at the other end, so stay shallow and get all the et possible out of it.

                    good luck, let us know how it goes.

                    later
                    tim
                    NJ SPEEDER<br />1976 Camaro LT<br />Crate 350, TH350, 3.90 posi<br />New Jersey F-Body Owners Association<br /><a href=\"http://www.NJFBOA.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.NJFBOA.org</a>

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                    • #25
                      njspeeder, thanks for the compliments, and yeah it handles badass... front tires are at 40psi, so when you say stage shallow, do you mean closer to the tree? or as far back as possible? and i need some skinnies!! and no front sway bar, i'll give it a try...

                      merlin
                      2002 Firebird<br />2003 Yamaha YZF 600R

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                      • #26
                        shallow means that you just barly get into the secodn set of staging bulbs.
                        the best approach i have found is to pull up until the top set of bulbs coem on and then stop. then just bump the car forward until the second set of bulbs comes on and stop.
                        the timers do not start until your car leaves the second set of beams for staging. that means the less of the tire you have holding that light on the more space th car has to roll forward and get momentum started before the timers actually start timing the run.
                        it is only 8inches between the beams, but it is an important 8inches.

                        hope this helps and makes sense. been drinkin a little and not typin so good.....hehe

                        later
                        tim
                        NJ SPEEDER<br />1976 Camaro LT<br />Crate 350, TH350, 3.90 posi<br />New Jersey F-Body Owners Association<br /><a href=\"http://www.NJFBOA.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.NJFBOA.org</a>

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