I like what you are doing QuickV6, but I am notone to send **** out and get it tuned OFF of a dyno, i am not dissing your tuning skills, but the HPtuners is a new program, and you arent Ed Wright or Ed Clark, and I know peope whos cars have been tottaled by a "snail mail" tune. And I am only needing the hypertech to change gear size and my shift points, plus my hypertech only cost me $100.
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13.37... and i know a 12 is possible!
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exactly, everyone pays 300+ for the hypertech but you can find some retard on ebay who thinks he will never need it again and is selling for around 100$ thats what im goin to do in the future
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I don't like the idea of sending my car's computer out for tuning no matter who it is. There is no way someone can accurately tune it without seeing what it does in the car before and after the tuning work. And, there is always the chance that it could get lost in the mail. I always wondered about viruses that could affect the stock computer if it were tampered with by someone who didn't exactly know what they were doing...You can get viruses on your home computer...I'm sure your car's computer could get fouled too..2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
2011 Cadillac CTS-V
2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
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I don't think that changing your shift points will help your 2-3 shift. Sounds like something internal is messing up the shift. 4L60es (700R4s) can be known to have this problem when you are putting more horse through it than it was designed for. And please, I don't want to here about all of the people who put 500+ horse through them without any problems. I am just saying that they have a tendency to have problems w/ the 2-3 shift. If the problem is actually internal, raising the shift point will do nothing more than kill the shift quicker. Just my .02 but I would attach a pressure gauge into the main line feed tap and watch for pressure fluctuations doing that shift. No fluctuations, no internal problems but if there are fluctuations, you just saved yourself a boatload of cash. It's a lot cheaper to fix something that still works as opposed to fixing a trans that is tore up.
Jim
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If the transmission is still stock you should just get it built. B&M makes a sweet rebuilt kit for the 4L60E and their shift improver kit with a good set of performance clutchpacks will help your car out a TON.Mustangs.. Come to the darkside...<br /><br />The dark side is the path to the shadow of greed. =D
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Shifting is fine now... just raised the shift speed a bit, and my rev limiter is up a few hundred too... and before anyone jumps on the fact that my rev limiter is 6300, my cam makes power to at least that or a bit more, i am just keeping everything safe
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have you dyno'e dthe car with the cam in it to se where your power badn actually sits? remember, shift points are more about what rpm teh engine lands on after the shift than what rpm the engine is at before the shift.
i suggest a trip to a dyno and then select shift points that let teh engine fall back onto a thick part of the torque curve. the 700R4/4L60E has a huge step between 1 and 2( 3.06 to 1.63, loss of 45% of rpm) so the 1 to 2 shift is very important.
Take care of that wheel hop at launch and try to get it out a little harder and you will havr it locked on 12's. keep up the good work.
later
timNJ SPEEDER<br />1976 Camaro LT<br />Crate 350, TH350, 3.90 posi<br />New Jersey F-Body Owners Association<br /><a href=\"http://www.NJFBOA.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.NJFBOA.org</a>
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