New 3.4L record...

[94TeaL]

Currents mods being..
*cat back 2.5 flowmaster exhaust.
*2.5 cutout
*Gutted cat
*Coolent bypass mod.
*lt1 one piece driveshaft.
*Hypertech 160 Thermostat.
*Custom Fan switch.
*Tranny cooler
*Ported and Polished Throttle body
*8mm Accel wires
*Zexel posi unit
*motive 3.42 gears
*SLP AAM Rear end cover
*A/C removed
*77 inch belt to 68.5
*Walbro GSS340 Fuel pump
*BBK FPR
Should be done next month.
*2030 Crane cam
Forged .30 over Ross pistons
*20% more flow melling oil pump
block bored .30 over
P&P heads 3 angle valve job
P&P upper and lower intake
*All Comp valvetrain parts Hardened Pushrods
*1.6 Rockers
*LT1 #24's
100-150 wet kit
10.1 compression
*Pacesetter 3.4 Headers and Y pipe

[94TeaL]

Btw a little weight reduction is in motion..

[MustangEater8251]

Originally posted by Joe Racer:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 94TeaL:
Why you gotta make things harder for me [img]smile.gif[/img] ...

I dont care.. With the mods going into my 3.4 if i dont hit 14's N/A im gonna be pissed!!!

I would love that happen! Personally, I feel that with ported heads, headers along with the rest of the chassis stuff would get these cars into the high 14s, but it's goona take everything to be just right. </font>[/QUOTE]I agree.... anything that gets that topend flowing more is good.

on my 15.4@86 I can say it was likely my best run.. but dang Joe, that mph is waht catches my eye... 88mph guess its the difference between 1le, and the weight reduction and what I had. When did you run this? Recently, weather been crappy here in Orlando. I can say my 15.4 run was nearly perfect, I wasn't getting anything else out of that car with that setup, which I have probably ever felt that a few times in my life.

Joe with that car, not even sure that internal engine work is 100% necessary... maybe just some computer tuning to advance the timing, might be enough to make it down to 14s n/a

[Joe Racer]

Eric, the wheels and tires are considerably less weight than the salad shooters you had on there, the 1 LE driveshft further reduces the rotating mass, the interior was absent, the belt was removed, front sway bar removed, and keep in mind I'm alot smaller too. ;) Those last mods are what made the MPH difference. you would be suprised how quickly the car got up and running with all the lightweight stuff. Oh yeah, the SLP intake didn't hurt either. I kept the cutout closed as well. I think it makes a little better torque with it closed. I ran it a couple of weeks ago with an ambient temp of 73º, iced down intake and well heated BFG drag radials. That mph was the first run. The rest were 87.21 - 87.96 and fairly consistant, just slower as the night progressed. Most likely the clutch was just starting to give up. It still bites great on the street.....The drag radials and heat were starting to give the clutch a little problem. It was lauching hard enough that I think it could also benefit from subframe connectors! Too bad it just doesn't pull the last 1/8th as well as the first. This turned out to be a nice little stoplight toy. Not to blow my own horn, but I've had lots of years rowing the gears at the strip so I can shift like a mother. One last thing to add, the stock shifter really bites. If it were going to stay a stick, that pos would be out of there in a heartbeat. One thing I did discover was short shifting 1st to 2nd gets me the better MPHs.

[MustangEater8251]

yeah, you do not ride out the gears, especially with the exhaust capped off...

AND damn you did that good with the exhaust closed? best I ever did like that was 15.8s... Open cutout it runs like a$$, but if you open it and rig a block off plate blocking it about 1/4 of it, I woudl run 15.5-15.6s, give the car more umph down the 2nd 1/8th...

but once you put that thing in 3rd, it just dies off...

[Joe Racer]

Well, maybe not totally capped.... It was leaking. I think the resistor in place of the IAT sensor helped a bit on the timing issue. It fools the computer into thinking the air is cooler than it is and the result is maximum rate of timing advance. It doesn't change the total timing, just the rate of advance. Leaving the dry ice packed around the intake did wonders for 3rd gear torque. you would be amazed how badly that stock intake manifold gets heat soaked. That may be another reson my MPH started slipping.... the ice evaporates instead of melts and it was about done by the 4th run.

[MustangEater8251]

I tried the timing tricker mod, didn't help to much, what one did you use? 4.7Kohm or something else?

I have always iced, but never tried dry ice [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Joe Racer]

The dry ice is pretty trick, but there is one problem. As it evaporates, it emits CO2. you don't want to be drawing that into your intake. I keep it in a sealed igloo container and ziploc bags, then when ready I pack it around the intake and let it do it's job. As it "melts", you'll have to vent the bags, but that is no big deal. It's a real benefit not having water dripping everywhere and the ability to keep it in place as you run. As far as the resistor, I used a 4.7K ohm. It helps more in the low throttle input torque making the throttle not quite so mushy. I'm also tempted to swap a 3.73 rear that I have. I'm curious if that will help the 3rd gear charge. Might be a little easier on the clutch too. [img]graemlins/popcorn.gif[/img]

[ June 13, 2004, 01:08 PM: Message edited by: Joe Racer ]

[Joe Racer]

Just for kicks here are the current mods:

3.42 posi rear with disk brakes.
1LE LT1 aluminum driveshaft
poly torque arm bushing
Z28 cat back with cutout before cat
1LE swaybars (removed for dragstrip)
KYB struts and shocks
Airbag in right rear spring
BMR LCA bolt on relocation brackets
BMR lower control arms (poly/rubber)
8mm wires
A/C Delco plugs
Weld Big and littles, BFG drag radials (strip)
17x9 chrome 10 spokes, 285/40/17s(street)
Removed interior for dragstrip
BMR strut tower brace (removed for dragstrip)
leaking EGR (still) :( ;)
TB heat bypass
Ported TB inlet
160º thermostat
4.7K ohm resistor mod
SLP cold air intake
removed belt for dragstrip runs
iced intake
synthetic oils
1/3 tank of gas
190 lb driver weight.

The LCAs, relocation brackets, airbag, driveshaft, wheels and tires were pirated from my 97 WS6 just to see if there were any gains from those mods and evidently there was enough to get me the extra mph and the sub 2.0 60'. But alas, back on the WS6 they go. ;)

[MustangEater8251]

ahh cool you have LCAs too [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Joe Racer]

I almost swapped the BMR torque arm too. I just got lazy.

[hawgs]

I still dont get the Z28 badges... Maybe I'd kinda understand if you were putting an LT1 in it (even then I don't think I would waste time and money doing it) but you're putting another V6 in it... just kinda strange if you ask me.


Rice -
Pronunciation: 'rIs
Function: adjective
Etymology: Middle English rys, from Old French ris, from Old Italian riso, from Greek oryza, oryzon, of Iranian origin; akin to Pashto wrize rice; akin to Sanskrit vrIhi rice
Meaning: To claim an object something that it is not.

[Joe Racer]

The emblems say Z26... you just can't see the modification in the photo. The 8 was cut to say a 6. Besides... why do people really care ayway?

[KBeezy]

*shrug* But you do know Z26 = Beretta right?

[hawgs]

Originally posted by Joe Racer:
The emblems say Z26... you just can't see the modification in the photo. The 8 was cut to say a 6. Besides... why do people really care ayway?

Because it would be silly for me to put Type R stickers on my car wouldn't it since its not a Type R. Putting Z28 badges on a non-Z28 car is rice, plain and simple.

Z26 = Beretta [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] Its a Cam-retta :D