BTW, it wouldn't hurt to have the Crane unit in because you want to retard timing when it's hot out to keep from detonating. Also, sounds to me like the a/f ratio gauge is working just fine. Does it stagger all over the place at idle and then pin to certain spot at wot? If so, it's working.
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hey Shirl...yeah...it toggles back and forth while idling...and then at WOT with just the blower it actuall stays on the border of stoich and rich ...i cant remeber if i monitored it while injecting nitrous...i thought i did and it was still on the border but even more towards stoich...in that case...maybe im getting the fuel but my ignition timing timing is off? ..im currently not retarding it at all...even with the nitrous
MustangEater ...i may have to hold off on sending out that a/f gauge then and see how its reading now with just the blower...and if its fine...maybe inject a smaller shot of nitrous and see how it reads<b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">
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well i gotta head out for a couple meetings now...i'll be back this afternoon...i appreciate you guys helping me! [img]smile.gif[/img]<b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">
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Originally posted by 1DangerousV6:
hey Shirl...yeah...it toggles back and forth while idling...and then at WOT with just the blower it actuall stays on the border of stoich and rich ...i cant remeber if i monitored it while injecting nitrous...i thought i did and it was still on the border but even more towards stoich...in that case...maybe im getting the fuel but my ignition timing timing is off? ..im currently not retarding it at all...even with the nitrous
MustangEater ...i may have to hold off on sending out that a/f gauge then and see how its reading now with just the blower...and if its fine...maybe inject a smaller shot of nitrous and see how it reads
do you even know what stoich is for that guage?? if its in the 14.5 ish range like most cars that is absoulity awfull.. you shld be WELLLL into the low 12's high 11's af with just the blower at WOT..
IMHO spend the $300 and get a wideband.. you will need it for tuning anyway.. or atleast get yor turd on a dyno..
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Originally posted by 1DangerousV6:
..im currently not retarding it at all...even with the nitrous
what you should be on race gas then like 115 octane !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!www.turbov6camaro.com
1997 3800 Series II Camaro
4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
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im not sure what stoich is on that gauge...im gonna see if i can find out...i'd really like to have my car dyno tuned but i dont know of anyone around here that does that...and i've asked a few places...and yup...no ignition timing retard...oops! ...basically cuz the car seemed to handle it fine at first with the blower and with smaller shots (50 - 70) ..however...i think i found its limit<b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">
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Originally posted by viper04af:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 1DangerousV6:
..im currently not retarding it at all...even with the nitrous
what you should be on race gas then like 115 octane !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! </font>[/QUOTE]Yes, viper, we agree on this. No wonder the car is running like sh*t. Retarding your timing too much will not damage anything as was stated earlier. It just decreases the amount of power the engine generates. I would start with the rating provided by crane and adjust it from there. 2* per lbs of boost sounds like a SAFE starting point since the table the PE ranges in the 30s to 40s. Honestly, I think your motor is done. Anytime a motor starts running slower, stick a fork in it.
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yeah..its probably done...gotta see what they say tomorrow...well at least when i have a new motor i'll have these other mods ready to go to do it right...im betting i can see high 12s - low 13s before i finish it off though lol<b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">
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Originally posted by 1DangerousV6:
MustangEater ...i may have to hold off on sending out that a/f gauge then and see how its reading now with just the blower...and if its fine...maybe inject a smaller shot of nitrous and see how it reads
Thats cool whatever you need to get your car right but if you do decide to sell it for $25 contact me [img]smile.gif[/img]
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haha...sorry about that man...spoke too soon...i just wanna make sure im running smooth...then i'll let you know [img]smile.gif[/img]<b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">
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http://hp.autometer.com/instructions...nstruction.pdf
there that has all the vontage info for that guage..
looking at it you want like a voltage of .9 or .8 to be in something considerd "rich enough" if tis still in stoich you are only getting and afr of about 13-15 in most cases..
imho that guage it junk.. i meen.. your stock o2's are only good for verifing and achiving a stoich afr for crusing and idle..
this is visualized in the graph in those instructions..
imho get a wideband.. or get on a dyno.. that guage is pretty much useless by todays standards..
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all the good names...thanks for the info!...thats some good stuff...i'll be sure to keep that around...i think i may just go by the fuel pressure to get an idea of whether or not im going too lean...i know with the blower it should be 70 - 75 psi ...if thats the case then i should be all good with just the blower...which i think i have been since the fuel pump...if not i can adjust the a/f ratio with the MAFT+ ...and then i'll go from there with the nitrous...i'll probably still stick to my 85 shot..but adjust the ignition timing to see if i can eliminate any detonation<b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">
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Originally posted by AllTheGoodNamesAreGone:
dammit.. why do i even bother..
fine.. blow your car up.. i serisously hope it burns down in the process..
Originally posted by hawgs:
Listen to advice and take it instead of just talking so damn much. Can you have one thread with one thought and try and think it all out instead of creating thousands upon thousands of posts/threads and accomplishing nothing.
also...stop...talking...like...a...dumbass...okay? lol...its...kinda...hard..to...read..!@!lol...writ e...your..posts...in...lol...para...graph...form.. .makes..it..easier..okay?@1
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You may have answered this before, but with your blower/dry nitrous combo you need to run some big injectors. I would say that you need to run some 36's. You would need to be able to tune them as well, so you might need to use HP Tuners. I am not an injector expert, but you might even need 42's...
Also if you run nitrous all the time, you definitely want to run lower WOT timing. You can end up detonating otherwise.98 Pontiac Formula<br />10.3@136 | 1.58 | 3450 Raceweight
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