Back from the track after tuning

[12secondv6]

Oh lord, TRUST ME, I understand gears [img]tongue.gif[/img]

When I say higher.... I mean 3:42's+ even though when thinking "higher gears" from a 3:23 is really 308's and less [img]tongue.gif[/img]

Code is related to crankshaft sensor relearn... gotta make an appointment at dealer :(

[mjparme]

Did you give it a good relearn period before you took it to the track? I know with Wester's they recommend 30-60 miles of stop and go driving after putting in the new PCM. I would say it is closer to the 60 miles than 30.

I didn't think you would need the crankshaft position relearn since you have the same PCM. I thought only if you switched PCM's you would need that. Anyway, you don't necessarily have to take it to the dealer. Most diagnostic scanners can perform the crankshaft relearn. My friend is a service manager at a auto shop and he does them for me. He uses a snap-on diagnostic scanner "with the most recent upgrade modules." (he said without the most recent upgrade modules he couldn't do it)

[12secondv6]

This was a replaced computer.

And, yes, I had a decent amount of miles on the bird before running it

[Pro Stock John]

What was your 60' on that 14.07 pass? Was it a 1.7 or a 1.8?

With the way you run now, your car is not really doing a lot off the line.

Are you running 26x11.5x16 ET Streets right now?

If you are ever on AOL IM, hit me up... prostockjohn

[njspder]

Originally posted by 12secondv6:
3:23's

Why?
1.584 60 foot spinning.

I have NO need for MORE gear even though almost EVERYONE on this board tells me go with a higher gear.

If I went with a higher gear I would spin EVEN MORE!

coem on bud, we have talked about this how many times?
you have to pick your gears from teh high end of the track, not the starting line. and if you aren't hooking maybe you should be working on the chasis tuning.
my offer to help you set that thing up still stands.
if there is a 1.58 in it spinning there is a 1.50-1.48 in it at minimum once you hook it.

later
tim

[skorpion317]

Originally posted by njspder:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 12secondv6:
3:23's

Why?
1.584 60 foot spinning.

I have NO need for MORE gear even though almost EVERYONE on this board tells me go with a higher gear.

If I went with a higher gear I would spin EVEN MORE!

coem on bud, we have talked about this how many times?
you have to pick your gears from teh high end of the track, not the starting line. and if you aren't hooking maybe you should be working on the chasis tuning.
my offer to help you set that thing up still stands.
if there is a 1.58 in it spinning there is a 1.50-1.48 in it at minimum once you hook it.

later
tim </font>[/QUOTE]Why is 60' ET so important?

he shouldn't pick his gears for the end of the track. james has the the right idea by having numerically lower gears.

[Pro Stock John]

Have to put those mods and times in perspective, like compare them to a LS1 h/c car...

Now I hooked 1.55 back in 2000 on 26x11.5x16 ET Streets with h/c and went 11.75@114. That was with a 3.50 gear. I think that a 3.23 is okay, ie. okay for nitrous but crap for n/a. For n/a I would do a 4000 stall, heads, cam, and 3.73's. Car should go 13.7 all day long on motor. This would be for a heavier car too like 3300 r/w. Magnus went 13.6 n/a but his car would have went 13.2 n/a if he had stuck with it longer.

I think you have to play with your setup more... My buddy's stock motor LS1 went 11.45 back in 1999 with just a 150 shot and excellent chassis work. This was HackerJoe. That was with a 3.70 gear and a PI2800. I would suggest that you leave the fronts at like 1/1 almost full loose. And not touch them at the track. For the rears I would try 4/4, I ran mine mostly at 4/4. I'd run the et streets (for nitrous) at 14 cold. I'd have my first burnout be about 6-7 seconds. I roll thru the water, do one short spin, and then bring the et streets to the front edge of the water box. I then like to shift it thru from 1 and 2 but some like to leave it in 3rd. I did not because sometimes the pcm will shift the car at too low an rpm during the burnout.

I then stage. I never "test" the tires, that just cools down the rubber.

I then stall it as high as I can. I have the car in 3rd. Yanks like to be stalled high.

I've gone 1.50 on 26" et streets with a 4.10 gear so don't always look to the gear as being the culprit, it's probably just that your local track has inconsistent track prep.

Oh for subsequent runs, that are within 30 minutes of the first, I do a shorter burnout.

If you car bogs, then raise the tire psi until it spins and then bring it back down a little bit.

You want to run the tire psi as high as you can until it spin. Low psi tires will affect top end mph.

James, lastly, if you are running a nitrous tune now, like with significantly reduced timing, the car will lose a lot. I would not even race it n/a if that's the case.

[Pro Stock John]

Oh, and nitrous HP peaks lower typically than NA, so less gear is okay. Nitrous makes a lot of torque so the torque multiplication of bigger gears is not as great of a bang as it is for n/a. n/a is a different story. Your 3.8 cars need rpms to make power, so you need as much gear as you can run to support shifting the car at like 6500 with heads and cam mods.

But while gear is not the be-all for nitrous, you still need a good amount of gear.

If it were me I'd run a 3.42 gear for nitrous, and try to shift the combo at like 6000 or 6200 if your valve springs are up for it.

[Tiago]

nitrous cars are not NA cars, don't expect to have a fast NA car and a fast nitrous car, neither setup will be optimal in that case. If you are a bottle baby then forget NA and concentrate on juice.

[12secondv6]

I do appreciate all the info.

The 14.0 run saw a best of a 1.88 60 ft.

I've built the car specifically for once set up only, nitrous.

I have just lucked out and somehow the car has gone as quick as 14.0 N/A.

Personally, the combo of 3200 stall converter, extensive porting of the heads, intake and TB, weeney 3:23 gears and stock cam are a WAY wrong combo for an N/A car.

I think the suspension is MUCH better than the 12.1 pass now.

I run the car a lot at any of the local events at e town and I am usually dead consistent N/A. It is slow... N/A, but works great for a killer bracket racing car.

We shall see what happens once the nitrous is sprayed again [img]smile.gif[/img]

Thanks to all for the assistance.

[Wicked 3800 V6]

PSJ? When did he show up? Cool. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

Originally posted by Tiago:
nitrous cars are not NA cars, don't expect to have a fast NA car and a fast nitrous car, neither setup will be optimal in that case. If you are a bottle baby then forget NA and concentrate on juice.

yeah both mine and davids car dynoed less then stock N/A, ill post my dynos soon as i get back to the states

[Pro Stock John]

With 26" ET Streets and hittin' nitrous off the line the car should at least go 1.6 short times. Make sure the suspension is not unloading after the initial hit that can be a problem.

Last time I was out I went 10.6 and was spinning on a 1.59 I might have to adjust my new rear sway bar.

[12secondv6]

Thanks PSJ.

I think the @ss end was bouncing up due to dead rear shocks and bouncing up cause of rear springs.

I've relocated more weight to the @ss end now and added HAL rear adjustable shocks so I am hoping this will be a key factor.

Thanks for the info!