3.4l Looking for 13's

[shenanigans]

I have been down the track a few times a 3.4L [img]smile.gif[/img]

First off I'd try shifting manually, I have a feeling your shiftpints maybe ****ty if you have 4.10s and not recalibrated for them.

DO you feel like you have alot of power topend? I never had problems witn my 3.4L course it was a internally stock motor with bolt ons. My 3.4L has alot more umph up top and I have had traction then lost it at the top end of 1st gear but I was on old bald street tires.

Get with people that know drag radials and get the heat and pressure right so you get a good launch, maybe experiment with manually shiffting.

Not sure how your car is but riding my 3.4L to redline made it slower, I'd shift before then and run faster..

[Camarorulz]

Originally posted by njspder:
this thread is reaking of BS. spinning the tires suddenly at the 330's is a bunch of crap.
i have been around racing for almost as long as you have been alive, and i can only think of a handful of cars that break the tires that late in the track. they are called funny cars and top fuel dragsters. maybe in your infinate racing experience you have seen them on tv. jackass

That's pretty much along the lines of what I was thinking.

Originally posted by theman3.4:
Hopefully getting a naturally aspirated stock 3.4 with a carb into the 15.50's in nearly stock form.

Already been done ^^^^^ , you're not hot **** like you think you are.

[Fbody3400]

Not trying to bash on 3.4s seeing how i have one, buy why the hell would you buy a crate 3.4??? Seems like a huge waste of money for a small piece of HP....

[black34v6]

let me point something out for everyone (not defending the guy in anyway -- more just making ppl aware of this) ::

posted by theman3.4
I have an 82 s10 with the 3.4 crate engine, headers, 2 1/2 dual exhaust, MSD Ignition, E Fan, 4:11 gear.
[/i]end post[/i]

dude, you are comparing your light-*** (no pun intended) s-10 to a f-body? apples to oranges dude.

your s-10 probably needs that slick due to the fact that you have no weight whatsoever behind your rear tires. and the truck is rwd. i know that my friend in San Antonio had an s-10..with a 2.8... t5 - and would slide all over the place in the rain. she bought a railroad tie just to add some weight to the back tires so she could get good traction.

the fbody doesnt have that handicap. being that the gas tank is centrally located over the rear axle - PLUS the massively heavy rear hatch that we have (note: 6 feet of glass back there) and you have a nice weight over the back tires. if you put those massive slicks on a fbody, you wouldnt get anywhere and would actually increase your times. common sense man.

in addition -- think before you post. dont come on here being "i know everythign cause ive been racing for 11 years".

<twirls finger> im happy you are so experienced. but honestly there are several other people on this board that are waaaaaay more qualified than you. not to mention, yet again, that you are talking about racing a truck when we are talking about racing cars. different part of the universe.

and Fbody3400 -- the "crate" 3.4 was intended to replace the anemic 2.8L engine that came with the 1982 S-10. a vast improvement i would imagine. but he really neds to go one step farther and get rid of the stupid iron heads. of course with the fact that hes driving a truck hes gonna hvae to do something to the back to transfer the increase in power out to the rear wheels (cause with 207 lbft at the rear, his tires will hop all over the place)

then again..hes got those massive slicks, so maybe not.

<shrugs>

[Jerriko]

My right eyebrow kept raising by itself while I was reading this thread.

[wasjo6431]

u have to make sure ur staging the same everytime i like to stay deep in the beams as much as possible
so i have more time to roll forward ont he third yellow before it goes green so i have a better chance of hooking up. tire pressure run around 22-19psi but start it at 25 make sure to do a goo dburnout otherwise u wont hook from the line as u are now using more of the tire then normal and u have patches on the left and right of the tire with more tread then the center so u have to burn them off.
good burnouts correct staging and a good launch u should be 1.7x 60ft and about 13.8x to 14.1x

[quicksix956]

I don't know what I am doing wrong but i know it is something I moved up to a 100 shot and changed to 3:73 gears and ran constant 14.5 but i had no traction at all I was getting the worst 60ft times of 2.2 I am going to go this weekend and I was thinking about putting the speakers back in for more wright in the rear and I am going to let my tires down to 20psi.

I have a adjustable torque arm cold a bad pinion angle slow me down?

[quicksix956]

By the way I am running the stock computer with no tuning i herd fastchip does good work but when I called they acted like dicks and like they didn't want to do anything for me do u think tuning would help

[njspder]

tuning always helps. since your car is OBD1 you can actually use a lot of the same programs that the thirdgen guys use to do your own tuning.
mail order/off the shelf tunes like fastchips and hypertech are junk. real tuning comes from data logging your car and creating files specific to those data logs.

later
tim