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  • #46
    Originally posted by kristen:
    what else would i have to do to my suspension?
    What kind of suspenion do you have now?

    I'd consider LCAs, thicker rear sway and maybe a torque arm.
    -Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>

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    • #47
      SUSPENSTION:
      EDELBROCK TORQUE ARM
      BMR LOWER CONTROL ARMS
      BMR PANHARD ROD
      BMR STRUT TOWER
      BILSTEIN SHOCKS
      WAWA-A-HOLIC

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      • #48
        Originally posted by kristen:
        what else would i have to do to my suspension?
        you have a pretty good start. along with dropping teh frotn sway bar i would suggest adding some lower control arm relo brakcets(weld in).
        also, if you are more serious about the strip than handling a set of 50/50 lakewood rear shocks would be a big help.
        for tires i would suggest getting some 15x8 rims and going for a set of 275/50-15 M/T et street radials.
        these things all together shoudl be plenty to give you a high 1.6 short time. that would put your et somewhere in the high 12.6 or low 12.7.

        later
        tim
        NJ SPEEDER<br />1976 Camaro LT<br />Crate 350, TH350, 3.90 posi<br />New Jersey F-Body Owners Association<br /><a href=\"http://www.NJFBOA.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.NJFBOA.org</a>

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        • #49
          i would scrap the E Torque arm . get a Adjustable BMR Tubular. get a torque arm relocation kit from bmr. takes the stress of your trans.
          get rid of the bilsteens. get some old school drag shocks in the rear or some two stage adjustable shocks. set them to about 8. run v6 shocks up front.
          scrap the springs in the rear go air bags.
          The STRUT TOWER DOES NOTHING FOR DRAG RACING&gt;
          <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001/Firebird_Index.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001/Firebird_Index.html</a> <br />1993 3.4L firebird<br />mods-flowmaster 80 series, removed cat. K&N FIPK. custom ram air ducts to filter.<br />Completed Engine Swap.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by njspder:
            </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by kristen:
            what else would i have to do to my suspension?
            you have a pretty good start. along with dropping teh frotn sway bar i would suggest adding some lower control arm relo brakcets(weld in).
            also, if you are more serious about the strip than handling a set of 50/50 lakewood rear shocks would be a big help.
            for tires i would suggest getting some 15x8 rims and going for a set of 275/50-15 M/T et street radials.
            these things all together shoudl be plenty to give you a high 1.6 short time. that would put your et somewhere in the high 12.6 or low 12.7.

            later
            tim
            </font>[/QUOTE]I also agree on the lakewood shocks. and the smaller rims tires. this means less rotating mass and lower diameter = Spins much faster = reaches higher rpms faster = faster times.
            <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001/Firebird_Index.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001/Firebird_Index.html</a> <br />1993 3.4L firebird<br />mods-flowmaster 80 series, removed cat. K&N FIPK. custom ram air ducts to filter.<br />Completed Engine Swap.

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            • #51
              i agree..for some reason those drag radials just arent working for you..i mean im cutting lower 60's in my AUTO ..its time to try a different tire suck as M/T et streets..i took a couple runs on them with my car and they were pretty good..i also agree about the edelbrock torque arm..havent heard great things about them..i would get an adjustable one..you can set the pinion angle and get some serious traction..id recommend a mounted WBO2 also..i'll keep on sayin it..i think you can get more out of that juice..that car definitely has 12s in it..and you'll put it there [img]smile.gif[/img]
              <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

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              • #52
                Originally posted by 1DangerousV6:
                i agree..for some reason those drag radials just arent working for you..i mean im cutting lower 60's in my AUTO ..its time to try a different tire suck as M/T et streets..i took a couple runs on them with my car and they were pretty good..i also agree about the edelbrock torque arm..havent heard great things about them..i would get an adjustable one..you can set the pinion angle and get some serious traction..id recommend a mounted WBO2 also..i'll keep on sayin it..i think you can get more out of that juice..that car definitely has 12s in it..and you'll put it there [img]smile.gif[/img]
                I've run a 1.74 60' with my un-adjustable Edelbrock TA, modified stock LCA's and a stock PHR. They're not that bad. However I hope this Trak-pack will pick me up some. Also, an auto will have more of a chance running good 60's than a manual. She just needs to practice her launch more.
                <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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                • #53
                  1.8's on those DR's when they were on MY car!!! [img]smile.gif[/img]

                  [ June 10, 2005, 11:56 PM: Message edited by: Shirl ]
                  2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
                  1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
                  2011 Cadillac CTS-V
                  2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
                  2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

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                  • #54
                    Kristen, if you're seriously interested in the Weld Draglites/ET Streets make an offer. I paid about $1400 for everything. They are pretty much brand new. Only a few runs down the 1/4. 15x8's in the rear and 15x3.5's in the front. Don't really want to part with them, but if the price is right I'll consider...
                    2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
                    1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
                    2011 Cadillac CTS-V
                    2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
                    2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Originally posted by Shirl:
                      Kristen, if you're seriously interested in the Weld Draglites/ET Streets make an offer. I paid about $1400 for everything. They are pretty much brand new. Only a few runs down the 1/4. 15x8's in the rear and 15x3.5's in the front. Don't really want to part with them, but if the price is right I'll consider...
                      Seriously $1400? Damn, thats high.
                      <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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                      • #56
                        More like Dealership paid :wink:

                        Neway edelbrock is just starting on the torque arm business give them some time they will be alot better for now i suggest going with a relocation kit and a bmr adjustable torque arm or some SFC's and trak pak unless u wanna dish out extra cash on the extreme set which isnt recommended unless u run low 10s
                        i agree some super stickies will help you out alot. i got a feeling u wont notice any spin off the line and u could spray off it.u cant be putting more then 400 rwph down. some 28s or 29s in the rear would help you dramatically.btw run em at around 18psi.
                        <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001/Firebird_Index.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001/Firebird_Index.html</a> <br />1993 3.4L firebird<br />mods-flowmaster 80 series, removed cat. K&N FIPK. custom ram air ducts to filter.<br />Completed Engine Swap.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by wasjo6431:
                          More like Dealership paid :wink:

                          Neway edelbrock is just starting on the torque arm business give them some time they will be alot better for now i suggest going with a relocation kit and a bmr adjustable torque arm or some SFC's and trak pak unless u wanna dish out extra cash on the extreme set which isnt recommended unless u run low 10s
                          i agree some super stickies will help you out alot. i got a feeling u wont notice any spin off the line and u could spray off it.u cant be putting more then 400 rwph down. some 28s or 29s in the rear would help you dramatically.btw run em at around 18psi.
                          A 28 or 29" tire isnt needed on her car. A 26" tall tire would be more than enough, besides she would have to add more gear if she ran that tall of a tire.
                          <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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                          • #58
                            a 275/50-15 drag radial would be 25.7inches tall. that is plenty for the car. it would also reflect a much closer to the stock wheel and tire size so teh speedo would be accurate to drive to teh track on them.
                            bias ply tires are overkill and would only act as a band-aid on the traction problem. they would help a little off the line and then roll heavier and grow down track costing ET and trap speed.

                            later
                            tim
                            NJ SPEEDER<br />1976 Camaro LT<br />Crate 350, TH350, 3.90 posi<br />New Jersey F-Body Owners Association<br /><a href=\"http://www.NJFBOA.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.NJFBOA.org</a>

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                            • #59
                              i'm waiting to see if shirl will sell her set up. and people i can hit 1.8's at the track. i have, alot. i'm just having spining problems now that the nitrous is tuned. i need to find a good pressure cause what ever i do now i'm spining off the line(oh i also spray off the line) the best i got last week was a 1.9 60 ft. when i go to the track this week i plan of taking off the sway bar! i see what that does.
                              WAWA-A-HOLIC

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                              • #60
                                Seriously $1400? Damn, thats high.
                                If you want to play you have to pay. Skinnies mounted on Welds in the front $525. ET STreets mounted on Welds on the rear $856. Spacers for front skinnies $15. Running 11's priceless. [img]graemlins/naughty.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
                                2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
                                1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
                                2011 Cadillac CTS-V
                                2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
                                2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

                                Comment

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