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Originally posted by Little G: Manual is faster, because you can wait until your opponent shifts and if you shift later you'll always win! (same applys for nitrous)
go to a poly trans mount. the stocker in shreaded by the shift kit and I am loosing energy in the shift.
throw away the damn kumo's and go back to bfg's
maybe a FPR and 1.6 rockers.
finish getting the exhaust installed.
money willing, a tornsen t-2r road racing diff and 3.73 gears.
heated O2's
if I get tdz16's maro
throw in the rear he is giving to the buyer.(posi/4.10's)
play with hp tuners
learn to drive a manual again lol
95 Firebird<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/673250\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/673250</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://photobucket.com/albums/y217/andrewbrandon19/\" target=\"_blank\">http://photobucket.com/albums/y217/andrewbrandon19/</a> <br /><br />me on a good day------> <a href=\"http://communicatio.webblogg.se/images/wet_cat_113159625.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">linky</a>
Originally posted by Little G: Manual is faster, because you can wait until your opponent shifts and if you shift later you'll always win! (same applys for nitrous)
g
The T-5 shouldn't be faster. The gearing in that transmission isn't right because it falls way out of the power band on shifts and the motor has to play catch up.
Originally posted by WickEdSix9838: </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Little G: Manual is faster, because you can wait until your opponent shifts and if you shift later you'll always win! (same applys for nitrous)
g
The T-5 shouldn't be faster. The gearing in that transmission isn't right because it falls way out of the power band on shifts and the motor has to play catch up. </font>[/QUOTE]it was a joke
Black \'94 Trans Am A4- SLP CAI & Loudmouth<br />Red \'93 Firebird A4- Ram Air under the WS6 hood, !cat, exhaust.
Originally posted by 12secondv6: Post your planed drag race friendly mods:
Since the new house I have to look at CHEAP/FREE mods!
-Ditch the stock v6 rear sway bar for a 24 mm hollow
-pick up aluminum front brakes in place of iron front ones (20+ lbs gone)
-ditch heat system and piping (25+- lbs gone)
-finish door panels
-ditch door bars (12+ lbs gone)
-look further into frame area (XX lbs gone)
-ditch center console (5+ lbs gone)
Money mods (these are maybe's):
-Get true front runner tires (15+ lbs gone)
-electric water pump (5+ lbs gone through removal of idler pulley and bracket)
-Chome moly LCA's (15+ lbs)
These are off the top of my head.
Local guys (tim, foff, craig) are trying to convince me to ditch the cat in place of a bullet muffler... more flow.... more tuning potential.
I'd like to see 27XX pounds this year. I can do it very easily.
Updates to come
Nitrous passes to come!
Instead of all that, why don't you just get a driver? ;)
I've got mostly suspension mods planned out for my car. I'm making my own rubber/rod end control arms, my own rod end/rod end panhard, upgrading shocks and springs, installing my trans go shift kit, probably HP-Tuners, and either the unbalanced engineering torque arm or continue putting FI on my car. I'm running a 15 flat right now but the car has high 14's in her (if i can improve my driving skills) I'm hoping for 13's by next year.
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
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