Will a torque converter help my nitrous ET?

[WickEdSix9838]

TCI

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

i got a PI only cuase my tranny guy said not to get a edge or TCI

edge and tci are about $500

Pi was $700

and yank are $800-closer to 900 usally

tons of V8 guys run the PI and love them so i got theres

i told them my set up showed them my T5 dyno graphs and they sent me a 3800 stall with 2.5 TM.

its my first stall but i like it alot soon as i hit it, the car is in boost in one second or less... thats -14 to -16 vac to 14-16 psi lol :D

one thing is your thinking about boost again too.... are you going SC or turbo? that will make a differacne too!!!

going down the street if you look at my log my car holds about from 5000 to and slow rises from there right in the steep part of my powerband the pull never stops or fades off !!!

[1DangerousV6]

^ im waiting for the cartuning turbo kit on 3800performance.com to come out :D

[97rs4life]

Originally posted by 1DangerousV6:
^ im waiting for the cartuning turbo kit on 3800performance.com to come out :D

They have said it was coming out soon now for like 1-2 years, lol, good luck waiting ;)

[Shirl]

I snuck into a 1.88 60 ft with 3:23 gears!

I lost NO mph with that, I saw 33 mpg with this converter!

New one- $800
Super Street - again from Yank
4200 stall
I now cut 1.75 N/A with this converter + 4:10's

I knocked off another 0.3 in the 1/4
I lost NO mph, actually gained some this time.

I have NO complaints with mine (BOTH of them!)

Yank has been incredible to me, great customer service, made a bad @ss product for me.

1danger..... you are NOT ready for one.

Hmmm, you are now running a BIGGER shot, 4.10's, and basically a gutted car with one seat, which would all contribute to improving the 60ft. IMMENSELY. Every 100lbs. is approx. .1 in ET. Hence, if you weigh 28xxx lbs. that's about 700lbs lighter than stock which would equal about .7 reduction in ET. Add in the extra 25 shot of nitrous which would net you at least .25 and the gearing (not sure how much that would help.) I'm thinking... there is no concrete evidence that the converter made that much (if any) of a difference (at least this time) because there were other mods including an increase in shot and several hundred lbs. of weight reductions done to the car. I thought you told me at the track that you weren't seeing a gain with this new converter. I'm going to need a LOT of convincing... ;) And.. will have pics for you tomorrow, getting them developed at Costco... :cool:

Scott, I'd say get the car tuned properly first and forget about the whole ordeal for now because there is a lot involved to get it right and it's costly. Plus the fact that you need to get your car tuned properly. Have you run it since you put the huge shot on it and ran 12's? If so, how did you do? and.. What is your best 60ft. to date? Once you have all of the bugs worked out, you should keep practicing with the stock converter and get some killer 60fts. well before you consider an aftermarket converter.

[12secondv6]

Weight remained the same
It has hovered around this weight.

Race weight used to be 3050
Driver 180
Car 2870

Race weight now 3052
Driver 204
Car 2848

I am comparing times N/A only.

I did not factor nitrous times in once.

And...... I'm going 13.75.... with less than 180 RWHP! Pretty damn good. Race weight 3052

I'll stick with my converter.

BTW -Most of my nitrous passes have been 100 shot... 6 to date on 125.

[Magnus]

A torque converter is definately a great mod to do..

Unless you want to be a guinee pig and risk a hit or mis converter for your car, go with something that is proven.

I have been out o fthe V6 scene for a while so I'm not sure what advancements have been made since my day, however, in my day PI was king..

I found a great converter for our cars (after a couple of tries) ... posted the part #.. and it worked out for a few other cars as well.

The converter I had was:
Precision Industries 3300 Pump #8 Torque Converter

It was a GREAT NA converter.. but it was a handful on nitrous with the primitive tuning I had available at that time.

I think this converter would be a killer all-out nitrous converter as well..

Problem is people dont' understand how converters work.

You also have to try several launching techniques to see what the verter likes.

All launching techniques you should be using two feet.. one on the brake and one on the gas..

You can:

hold the car around 1100 rpm's and then simultaneously release teh brake and mash teh gas.. This is flashing from "idle"...

you can hold the car around 2500 rpm's and then flash the verter from there...

Some converters like to hold the rpm's as high as possible, like 3500 and then hit it from there.

They are all different.. You need to know information about the converter and how hard it hits off the line..

Also, if you throw in a converter and are trying to launch on street tires, forget it.. If you are spinning, then you're wasting your time..

Traction is very important to ET.. Time to upgrade to some 15x8 wheels and a set of nittos or whatever tire would work best for your power level.

Important thing is to go with something that is proven... unless you want to take it out and send it back to the manfuacturer for a restall.

[12secondv6]

Keith couldn't have said it any better.

My ProYank 3200 liked to be stalled to 2900-3000 at the line.

My Super Street 4200 likes to be at 1500 at the line and then flashed.

[Shirl]

It was a GREAT NA converter.. but it was a handful on nitrous with the primitive tuning I had available at that time.

[Magnus]

What that means is..

Not only was I not able to hook the car since I didn't have enough tire to spray the car with the converter in it..

Due to the looseness of the verter I would hit the rev limiter on the shifts as well.

Tuning and a better tire would have fixed these things and the car would have flown.

I ran 12.3 with the above issues.. I had to put the car in overdrive at the 1/8th mile just to keep it form hitting the rev limiters..

With tuning and a tire it could have easily been an 11 second pass.

[BLLDOGG]

Originally posted by Magnus:
I had to put the car in overdrive at the 1/8th mile just to keep it form hitting the rev limiters

why does it do that? When i used to shift the tranny myself, sometimes if wouldnt shift and just bounce off the rev limiter unless i put it in overdrive. i assume this is what your talking about.

[Magnus]

My situation was different.

Note this is years back..

To get my car to shift on spray, I had to spoof the speedo signal by doubling it... that way the computer would hit the shift points a lot faster.. so when I was doing 60mph, the PCM saw 120 mph...

It was pretty messed up.

[12secondv6]

Keith is from the old school era.

Lack of tuning held him back..... he had HUGE potential in the v6 world... look what he did in the LS1 world!!!!

[BLLDOGG]

he did so well cause he knew how things work an didnt just throw things together. Smart man

[Shirl]

My situation was different.

Note this is years back..

To get my car to shift on spray, I had to spoof the speedo signal by doubling it... that way the computer would hit the shift points a lot faster.. so when I was doing 60mph, the PCM saw 120 mph...

It was pretty messed up.

Does HP have something for that now? If not, maybe that's something to look into with the software.