I am just starting out in autocross and would like to know what mods would be best for around $2000? Because of the Ram Air I think it puts me in the street preped class. Where would my money be best spent?
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What mods would be best?
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If you've NEVER autox'd or have autox'd little, DO NOT GET TIRES. Realistically, you won't be fast, at least for 5 or so races, and likely for the whole season. Buying tires will just be a waste, b/c you won't be taking advantage of their full potential. I'm running on GAs and GTIIs, b/c I know i've got room to move up.
SEAT TIME WILL BE YOUR BIGGEST MOD. When you start getting close to the other ESP drivers (have you considered the STX class?), then go for the big buck mods.
However, you should definitely do class-legal mods that you want for everyday driving. Like an STB (SFCs are ILLEGAL in ESP and STX), Sway bars, [torque arm], PHR, [control arms]. Headers! (pace setters when they're out). Race seats.
Shifter, intake, exhaust, you've got these so you're well on your way.
Don't be stopped from playing with fun stuff b/c of classing, though. Grab a supercharger or SFCs, other mods, just to have fun. Just remember that they will bump you up like a mofo into classes with a very high PAX index.
But, since you will need new tires sometime, why not get a set of Kuhmo Ecsta 712's. Great for street, great for AutoX. Not a race tire, but not expensive either.
-Rob<b>97 Camaro 3.8L M5</b><br />Car for sale<a href=\"http://terpmotors.com\" target=\"_blank\">terpmotors.com</a> Terrapin Motorsports! UMCP
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Thanks for the advice!
The club I belong to holds monthly free practices (I got 12 runs in last time out) and I am attending the yearly autocross school they offer next week end. This should help with the seat time.
What exactly is the STX class I haven't heard of it.2000 Chameleon Trans Am M6 factory hurst, T-tops, 5.7L LS1<p>(Traded my six in)
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Sorry, Washington the rain state, not the capital. I guess we must get some perks for putting up with having to drive in the crummy weather. [img]smile.gif[/img]2000 Chameleon Trans Am M6 factory hurst, T-tops, 5.7L LS1<p>(Traded my six in)
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And, if it rains during an event and you've got your street (ie rain capable) tires, the field could be leveled. At least, that's what I'm counting on. [img]smile.gif[/img]
-Rob<b>97 Camaro 3.8L M5</b><br />Car for sale<a href=\"http://terpmotors.com\" target=\"_blank\">terpmotors.com</a> Terrapin Motorsports! UMCP
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Wicked 3800 V6:
And, if it rains during an event and you've got your street (ie rain capable) tires, the field could be leveled. At least, that's what I'm counting on. [img]smile.gif[/img]
-Rob<hr></blockquote>
We have ours at a police training ground, the middle ahs this giant painted concrete(like the sutff they use for lane lines on the roads). Its slick drivng normally, makes the turns on it interesting, its cool to race on 2 differetn surfaces, and in the rain its like ice with slicks, some of the guys could barely get ther cars off, even withou t racing, jsut moving the car. [img]smile.gif[/img]
Well maybe your tires are fine, but my cooper cobras are not up to the challenge.
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I KNOW mine aren't up to the challenge ... but I figured I could save a few bucks this season and just run junk (even though these were new GAs) tires.
Got a killer deal on them too.
-Rob<b>97 Camaro 3.8L M5</b><br />Car for sale<a href=\"http://terpmotors.com\" target=\"_blank\">terpmotors.com</a> Terrapin Motorsports! UMCP
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One of the best mods to help you times would be to get a LSD, without getting power to the outside tire through turns, the inside will spin and you don't go anywhere. Obviously the other usual mods will help, no doubt about it, but the LSD was the most noticeable difference. You'll feel the difference with urethane bushings, and subframes are hella nice but you can't legally run ESP but who the hell cares (not me), and slicks 2-3 seconds difference it doesn't matter who you are.91 Firebird 3.1<br />SC12 Supercharger<br />LSD w/ 3.73s<br />NOS 80hp wet shot<br />AKA: Phoenix<br />\"If Speed Kills...Consider Me Dead.\"
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Actually, power naturally goes to the outside tire when running an open differential. It is just when you power into a turn with a posi, and the outside cannot spin any harder, you can push yourself through the turn using the inside wheel slightly with positraction.
This is not how a locker works, read my guide (on my website) for more details if interested.2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by TheCardinal:
Actually, power naturally goes to the outside tire when running an open differential. It is just when you power into a turn with a posi, and the outside cannot spin any harder, you can push yourself through the turn using the inside wheel slightly with positraction.
This is not how a locker works, read my guide (on my website) for more details if interested.<hr></blockquote>
I guess I need to explain myself better. With an open rear end, if you go into a turn your inside tire will have the least amount of weight on it and it's going to spin when you get on the throttle and once it breaks loose at all, the power is transferred to the spinning tire and the that has traction doesn't get power until the spinning one grabs again
With a posi if one tire has broken loose the other tire still gets power and the car can still move out.
Ask anyone who actually races and running an open diff sucks a**.91 Firebird 3.1<br />SC12 Supercharger<br />LSD w/ 3.73s<br />NOS 80hp wet shot<br />AKA: Phoenix<br />\"If Speed Kills...Consider Me Dead.\"
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Thanks for the info.
I picked up one of the $99 SLP zexel -torsen units. I am getting it installed tuesday. Can't wait till the next time I get to the track with the new sway bars and the LSD.2000 Chameleon Trans Am M6 factory hurst, T-tops, 5.7L LS1<p>(Traded my six in)
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