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I still say a 255 mickey thompson is too much tire for the car in question.
A 235 BFG drag radial would be PLENTY. That's what 02pewtersix is running on his car turning out 13.60 with 1.8x 60's. Proper tire setup is PART of the formula for us getting his car to be the 2nd quickest stock motor car.
You want to run the LEAST amount of tire while still hooking...that's how you go fast.
5-speed intake/exhaust car with: 4.10s with spec 3 clutch I think, 235 BFGs and 165s up front on draglites, considerable weight reduction (under 3000 lbs now) and a considerable amount of tuning via HPtuners by me and a little suspension.
He has an electric water pump now, but the 13.6 was done in very good weather before he got it.
what mods did you have done when you broke those rear ends? M5 as well?
Sorry for the delayed response. with the 1st rear on the V6 car I had
Headers, full exhaust, lid, coil packs, aluminum D/S, Poly urethane everything, SFC, STB, LCA's, Sway bars and a 125 shot.. The car had around 55,000 miles.. It was the stock 10bolt with 3.23's ..
The next 2 were with the built motor and the 1st one had 3.73's, the second rear was a built up 10 bolt with a Eaton LSD, 4.10's, Moser Axles, and a T/A cover. I was also on DR's on this one. The 1st 2 were on KDW's..
The WS6 has Headers, full exhaust, Lid, mass air, TB, and all the suspension parts that were on my V6. It was the stock 3.42 rear end with KDW's also. Both cars are Sticks..
And I forgot to mention that I had a Spec stage 3 clutch in the V6..
5-speed intake/exhaust car with: 4.10s with spec 3 clutch I think, 235 BFGs and 165s up front on draglites, considerable weight reduction (under 3000 lbs now) and a considerable amount of tuning via HPtuners by me and a little suspension.
He has an electric water pump now, but the 13.6 was done in very good weather before he got it.
do you mind going into detail regarding weight reduction....13.6 is very good for a stock motor. When I eventually get the Dr's I would like to gut the car for as much weight as possible (I have read that f-body weight site)....just curious what you guys did to achieve that result...
other then I'm an A4 with 3.90's, I have a mail order pcm tune (not the greatest I know) but the 13.6 with the above stated gives me hope that I will nail the mid to low 14 Im looking for....eventually...
was it lacking bumper supports and what not as well?...I wouldnt take out my carpet, but Id take out all seats, rear carpet, everything that can be physically removed from the trunk...
He had no front bumper support, still had the rear bumper support.
Interior is very gutted (no carpet, door panels, or speakers behind the front seats) as well as no front swaybar, lightweight battery, draglites, no AC and self-made hood-pin conversion.
I actually don't believe a racing seat was in at the clash when he ran the 13.6
There is a LOT of weight left to come off of this car in the way of tubular K and A-arms, pin-on only hood, drag shocks, etc....
It is still a daily driver.
For you to get good times you will NEED a torque converter and drag radials. 3500-4000 stall converter will get you great times. If I could only do a couple mods to a V6 fbody it would be full set of drag wheels with DRs and skinnies, as much gear as you could stand, high stall converter, and tuning.
3500 felt like stock on my car...very tightly built.
I wouldnt ever go LESS than 3500 for a street/strip car. It would be 4K if I had it to do over again for a street/strip car....more if it saw mostly stip.
3500 felt like stock on my car...very tightly built.
I wouldnt ever go LESS than 3500 for a street/strip car. It would be 4K if I had it to do over again for a street/strip car....more if it saw mostly stip.
So my truck is finally getting some work done, after 17 years, Oil pressure sensor went out and it’s located under the lower intake manifold. Have to...
1 week ago
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