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Ya, Im going to be trying that when I go on wednesday again...you would think that the higher you stall the better though...I mean, that why guys get trans breaks and such...
Ya, Im going to be trying that when I go on wednesday again...you would think that the higher you stall the better though...I mean, that why guys get trans breaks and such...
With a trans brake bringing the RPM up does not load the suspension like it does foot braking.
Not all stalled automatics like leaving at an idle. My car, leaving from an idle, retards the timing about 10 degrees then starts bringing it back in. Leaving at 2300 for me nets the best 60' time. My stall locks up at about 3300. You need to try different RPM's to leave at and see what your car likes. It 's normally at a RPM below where the car starts to torque up but high enough over idle where the throttle response is more crisp.
Ya, I think thats probably going to be in around the 2000 mark then...I'll give her some more shots on wednesday and see what I can pull...this is assuming they let me run the slicks again...the guy told me not to run again until I get a d/s safety loop...I got one in the mail, but it wont be here before wed...and August 15th is the Canadian street car nationals with that v6 event I want to enter in...so I'm trying to get a feel for everything now...
Is this an NHRA or IHRA track? I don't think you need a driveshaft safety loop until you're well under 13.99. Buy a copy of the rule book, it's always worthwhile.
Do you have slicks or radials, you keep interchanging the terms. If you're on a drag radial, 10psi is FAR too low. You're hurting yourself there, also, radials won't wrinkle.
Keep playing with launch RPM and air those tires up! Don't forget to air the fronts to 45ish or however high you're comfortable with.
Im not 100% what they are...They are DOT approved...mickey thompson ET Streets... It is a NHRA track I believe...he told me I should get one for next time...I plan on telling him I don't plan to break 14's unless I get lucky, and that I have an SLP one in the mail...(which I actually do, got it off ebay for a good price) Won't be here until next week though... I'll need one 100% for the street car nationals....
I've played with the tune a little more...and I hope to play with my launch points some...we'll see what happens tommorrow...
Those aren't radials. What size are they? May be too big for your application. What gear are you running. Any suspension work? Big tires are a commonly used bandaid for a poor suspension.
Those aren't radials. What size are they? May be too big for your application. What gear are you running. Any suspension work? Big tires are a commonly used bandaid for a poor suspension.
They're ET Streets which is basically a street-able slick.
Those aren't radials. What size are they? May be too big for your application. What gear are you running. Any suspension work? Big tires are a commonly used bandaid for a poor suspension.
I got kyb adjustable shocks, reloc lca brackets (set at the bottom hole) slightly stiffer rear springs, 3.90 gears/lsd, 3 piece poly ball LCA's, edelbrock non adjustable tq arm, 32mm hollow front sway bar, stb...Poly trans, swaybars, and tq arm mounts...
and not that it makes a difference at the moment, but 2pt sfc waiting to go on...
The et streets are 11.5 x 26....they measure in width to be about 10 inches...which is around 248 wide if you were comparing it to a street tire?
I cut a 1.9x with these crappy street tires I have on (2 of which stay on the front when I put the et streets on) 245/50 R16 Hankook ventus HRII
ya thats what I understood...I think I'll be ok for one more run with just the cross brace ...that should hold the shaft should it fall...I am getting an SLP one put on though...
ya thats what I understood...I think I'll be ok for one more run with just the cross brace ...that should hold the shaft should it fall...I am getting an SLP one put on though...
If it breaks you will think it's coming through the floor!
I got kyb adjustable shocks, reloc lca brackets (set at the bottom hole) slightly stiffer rear springs, 3.90 gears/lsd, 3 piece poly ball LCA's, edelbrock non adjustable tq arm, 32mm hollow front sway bar, stb...Poly trans, swaybars, and tq arm mounts...
and not that it makes a difference at the moment, but 2pt sfc waiting to go on...
The et streets are 11.5 x 26....they measure in width to be about 10 inches...which is around 248 wide if you were comparing it to a street tire?
I cut a 1.9x with these crappy street tires I have on (2 of which stay on the front when I put the et streets on) 245/50 R16 Hankook ventus HRII
So you have 3 mods directly inhibiting weight transfer. Do you have the KYB's on all 4 corners? How soft do they go? Stiffer rear springs aren't good for drag racing, and that big front sway bar isnt doing you much good. If your end links aren't all rusted up, think about disconnecting them for the track. Shouldn't take you much time to pull them off, and should be worth some 60'.
As far as the tires go, yore doing it rong. Start with more air, and then go down. Seriously, start around 22ish. Air the fronts up!! At least 45psi!! For the love of god man, don't do the SFC's, you're just adding weight. You're not making an earth rotating amount of torque. Ditch the STB while you're at it, useless. Is your car lowered? Why do you have the LCA relo on the bottom bolt? Try moving it up one. Neutral hole is the best place to start.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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