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from my research spark gap should be set as wide as reasonably possible without the spark being blow out... don't really think it would affect KR . i'll look more into it though. i did think about running another step colder plug. i'm really thinking about getting a water/meth kit also. and if i do that, just one stop colder is probably fine.
Yea just try the race gas.
From my experience i was getting knock with a large gap then when pulled the gap in .015(.028 total gap) it was gone. Also yea the spark will blow out with a larger gap but thats under alot more boost then your running. Grandnationals with 15psi of boost gap theres at .028 with no issues at all. Thats alot more boost then u or I am using.
Yea, well everyone tunes different, it it helps, then yea, if not ....then rinse and repeat looking for the issue. Trial and error is definitly the saying of tuning. Stresses me out sometimes.LOL
On 11 psi of boost and a conservitive tune I logged constant 30-80MPH in 7.75 seconds...That a little better then stock???
My 40-70Mph is in 4.5 seconds average!!
Stock 1991 z-28 with a 350Tpi runs 40-70mph in 4.6....yea chasing V8's now and theres alot more power to be had from this turbo set up!:D
Watch this vid. 0 up to 95 in like 14 or 15 seconds.. The stock car would of taken a hour..LOL
11.32psi of boost, good afrs, no knock, and 88% throttle.
Let me know what ya think...14 and 13 second pass's in my future at the track as long as I dont kill the drivetrain and hook up???? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxAL0VXkG6c
Actually on the datalog. 12mph-90mph in 12.07 seconds and thats with a rich(very low) AFR at high rpm. Alot more power to be had with more tuning! This data is from the log on the video i linked above.
Actually on the datalog. 12mph-90mph in 12.07 seconds and thats with a rich(very low) AFR at high rpm. Alot more power to be had with more tuning! This data is from the log on the video i linked above.
I'm impress!!!!
I timed your 0-60 which you took off at :04 and hit 60 at :09. So it's safe to say that your V6 can go 0-60 in 5.0-5.5 seconds.
You definately need to hit the track and see what it can do.
I know that our V6 has a 8.5:1 compression ratio. So I bet you can still be safe at 12psi.
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BTW... my 2.8 is much better now. I got the exhaust leak fixed and I decided to let the pros look at the MAF issue. Turns out I was right that it has no power going to it. They spent hours tracing the wireharness and making sure that all sensors are working.
No more SES light and it's not running on open loop all the time now. :tup:
Now I just need to smog it and registered.
I wish I could do what you've done to yours, but I'll be estatic and thrill to have mine just running reliably for a change.
Thanks!! It definitly is on its way so some great track times!! Its amazing what power it has from 20 mph and up when the turbo is fully kicked in. I use to hate the fact that I had such low compression, but now im thankful I have it so I dont run into detonation so easily.
Thats good that your got yours up and runing good, and not just running in open loop. Thankfully i dont have to pass emissions or id fail badly..LOL.
Busted out 14.78@99.6Mph on gtech this morning, and 198Hp to the wheels. Who knows how accurate that is but its a start. And that was just a foot stomp start...didnt spool up the turbo at all at the start. Fun stuff!!
198Hp*20% drivetrain loss(at minimum for a thirdgen autro)= 238Hp roughly thats alot better then the stock 140Hp..LOL
Yea i know its not the best accuracy, But its a good estimate exspecially since ive been tuning WOT on nice flat country roads. the more you drive this car the less I relize how fast it really is!
The best accuracy tool I have is in tunerpro datalogging, but all you can measure is the time it took to make boost, and get up to a certain MPh. down to the .00X(thousands of a second)
i wish everytime i got on throttle it felt like the first time it was boosted. instant chubby lol.
pipes do look better covered. but you should get a grinder and a flip disc and smooth out the welds. then repaint
A spark plugs’ tip temperature and the voltage necessary to fire the plug are directly affected by the gap setting. Most manufacturers set the gap from the factory for that plugs most popular application. Unfortunately, that plug may have hundreds of applications from automobiles to golf carts. Setting the gap for your particular engine is important as insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage. Whereas too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. Even if the preset gap is supposed to match your motor, it is always best to physically check that the gap is adjusted properly for your motor prior to installation.
For modified motors, proper gapping is essential; gap settings are affected by increased compression, fuel type, turbos, nitrous and high output ignition system. Most experienced tuners know that opening the gap up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency, however, after they have raised compression and installed a turbo, they have to lower the gap (to ensure ignitability in the denser air/fuel mixtures). It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to reopen the gap without misfire.
you might want to open the gap again and see how it goes.. you could get a little more power.. it actually says its easier to detonate with smaller gap.
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