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  • Modification inquery

    I just got a hand-me-down '91 Camaro RS from my brother. I can't drive it until September thanks to NJ's oh so wonderful driving laws for those born in '85 and later. Until then, I was thinking I could make some changes to upgrade the cars structure and and overall performance for street use. I wont be racing at all. I just want the power if I should ever need it, and the rest to support it safely.
    I'm reading a book on modifications and tuning on Camaros, and I got a few ideas. I was just wondering if someone would like to let me know which are worthwhile on a '91 RS with 126k miles on it. It still runs wonderfully without any major malfunctions. My brother took really good care of it. Anyway... I got a long list of things I could look into for it. Let me know what you think, what is a waste of time, what's a necessity, and what's completely optional, if the changes are even possible, among any other information you can spare, if you would be so kind.
    (Keep in mind Im somewhat new to the car world, so in depth explainations would help)

    steering links
    driveshaft safety loop
    upgrade torquearm
    adjustable panhard rod
    replacement control arms
    roller rockers
    7/16" diameter rocker arm studs
    rocker stud girdle
    triple-cut valve seats
    double-cut valve face
    bronze valve guides
    PC valve seals
    valve spring retainer
    ValveTech streetdamper
    hypereutectic pistons
    TPI specialties ZZ9 camshaft w/valve springs
    7/16" chrome-moly steel pushrods
    guide plates
    driveshaft u-joint
    rubber transmission mount
    braided steel radiator hoses
    HyperTech Cool fan switch
    HyperTech PowerStat 170 degree thermostat
    aluminum oil pan
    windage tray
    crank scraper
    heated 3 wire oxygen sensor
    dual catalyst exhaust system
    exhaust system coatings
    tubular exhaust system
    CatBack exhaust system
    metallic-ceramic header coatings
    AIM: ChevyGuy1022<br />Email:ChevyGuy1022@swfla.rr.com<p>\'91 Camaro RS<br />K&N Filtered CCAI<br />Bosch Plat 4+ plugs

  • #2
    http://mods.firebirdv6.com/

    good place to check for just about everything.

    if its not there, search the advanced tech forum.

    I could go into almost all that stuff, but less typing for me & more info for you if you search the forums & read the encyclopedia.

    Also, if you aren't too sure on how exactly the internal combusion engine works (valves, camshaft, etc). Howstuffworks.com is a great place to start.
    2001 75th Anniversary V6 Pewter Firebird w/ Chrome Wheels, T-Tops, & Y87<br />Mods: Free Ram Air, !Silencer, Holley Filter, Full 3\" Hooker Catback, 3\" Cat<br />Best time: 15.095 at 90.00 MPH with a 2.127 60\'

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    • #3
      Wow, sounds almost like a total rebuild. My advice:
      driveshaft safety loop -not really needed since you're not significantly increasingthe hp of the engine, but it won't hrt either. Might want to consider an aluminum driveshaft though...

      adjustable panard bar -not needed unless the car is lowered. If you don't want to lower it, save about $60 and get a strong aftermrket non-adjustable bar.

      hypereutectic pistons -why not forged? Then you could throw a 100 shot of N20 at it!

      Also might want to take a look at the brakes since its an "old" car. www.nextgenparts.com has a great brake upgrade kit for our cars for $250. Also some new stainless steel brake lines ($90)would be nice too. It would kinda suck to do all that to your engine and end up rear-ending someone because you couldn't stop in time. Just something to consider.....

      Sounds like you've got a good project. Have fun with it.

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      • #4
        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Firebird Type R:
        hypereutectic pistons -why not forged? Then you could throw a 100 shot of N20 at it!
        <hr></blockquote>

        I wont be doing any racing of any kind with this car. I dont really need to make any of these adjustments. its basically my way of learning the car inside and out while making some adjustments to make it sturdier and safer, more reliant, and more efficient. Also, I plan on making this one last. Id rather replace everything in the car instead of buying a new one. Im just making it last longer. To make my point, nitrous oxide is not something I'm putting in this car.
        AIM: ChevyGuy1022<br />Email:ChevyGuy1022@swfla.rr.com<p>\'91 Camaro RS<br />K&N Filtered CCAI<br />Bosch Plat 4+ plugs

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        • #5
          I talked to my father, and he seems to think any mods are a waste of time and money. For strictly street use only, he sees no purpose in modifying a car thats lasted 126k miles and who knows how many more before it dies. The way I see it, by strengthening it now, I slow the aging process of the car. He said somethin about how mods also hinder "learning how the car reacts" because youre strengthening the things youre stupposed to feel when things start to go wrong. Can anyone help me out here in arguing the positive side of suspension mods to him?
          AIM: ChevyGuy1022<br />Email:ChevyGuy1022@swfla.rr.com<p>\'91 Camaro RS<br />K&N Filtered CCAI<br />Bosch Plat 4+ plugs

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          • #6
            tell him he can drive it when all the mods are done ;)

            If it aint broke.....
            A new, improved dampner could't hurt. If the engine is doing good, don't crack it open.
            Replace all bushings, do some subframe connectors, new shocks/struts if needed.
            A fiberglass hood to reduce weight, how are the hood/hatch lifts?
            I will look on another site & ghet back to you as far as a "complete tune up" consists of.

            edit: and for all the money you want to put into the engine, look into a crate motor.

            [ January 13, 2002: Message edited by: 2.8 slow to go ]</p>
            1978 Formula 461 in progress of being built :rock:
            2013 Ram 1500 Big Horn

            former owner of 85 bird w/ 2.8 - 3.4 - 3800 II - 5.0
            94 comero 3.4

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            • #7
              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 2.8 slow to go:
              tell him he can drive it when all the mods are done ;)

              If it aint broke.....
              A new, improved dampner could't hurt. If the engine is doing good, don't crack it open.
              Replace all bushings, do some subframe connectors, new shocks/struts if needed.
              A fiberglass hood to reduce weight, how are the hood/hatch lifts?
              I will look on another site & ghet back to you as far as a "complete tune up" consists of.

              edit: and for all the money you want to put into the engine, look into a crate motor.

              [ January 13, 2002: Message edited by: 2.8 slow to go ]
              <hr></blockquote>


              As far as I know, the engines doing great. My brother has been giving me random updates as to what hes fixin, but the engines always been fine, so he got a tune up, but Ill still get it checked when I have it.

              The hood/hatch lifts are in decent condition. Not perfect only because of natural over-time wear from normal use. How drastic of a change ouwld a fiberglass hood be? And more importantly for my current situation, whats the damage on my wallet?

              And again with the engine, yes I plan on doing a lot of mods, but thats not for a while. Thats when it craps out on me and it needs to be replaced, along with the tranny. But one thing I still need to know about thos engine mods, is what I need to change to keep it runnin cool, or anything else I need to change because of the mods.
              AIM: ChevyGuy1022<br />Email:ChevyGuy1022@swfla.rr.com<p>\'91 Camaro RS<br />K&N Filtered CCAI<br />Bosch Plat 4+ plugs

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