This sucks. . . - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

This sucks. . .

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • This sucks. . .

    Okay, chapter 4 of my car problems. After the heater core incident, brake light switch problem and cruise control module vaccum (sp?) hose conspiracy, my car has another fault. First, when it starts, it revs to like 2K rpm and then idles fine. I put it in drive and go my merry way. After a short while, when I slow down to stop, it acts as though it wants to die. It drops to about 400-500 rpm, jumps to about 700 or so, and back down UNTIL I come to a complete stop, and then it's fine--no rumbles, no irrattic (sp?) idle, nothin'. ONLY when I'm at about 5-15 mph will this happen, and ONLY if I'm slowing down. Fuel filter or pump, ANOTHER vaccum hose? WTF????
    1992 Arctic White Firebird<br />3.1L V6, TB Coolant Bypass, CAI, Turbo Muffler, other little things.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html</a> <br /><br />\". . .Finger in the air and the flag still wavin\'. . .\"

  • #2
    vacuum hose (3.4 over @ Shanes)

    Comment


    • #3
      My bird did just about the same you mention basically since I've owned it. Just recently tracked the problem down to the Idle Air controll(AIC) valve. These were a big problem for the MFI V6s. Hope this helps, it's a cheap part. My Borg-Warner replacemnt ran me about 50 bones at the local Pep Boys, and its a quick install.
      [img]smile.gif[/img]
      <a href=\"http://home.earthlink.net/~spcboshears/\" target=\"_blank\">That other car is going to give Trans Am a terrible reputation</a>

      Comment


      • #4
        Well, just last night, I discovered that my gas pedal is sticking a little bit. See, about 5 nights ago at work, I went out to start my car, and it was seriously like 10 degrees, so I pushed the pedal to help a little gas get in the engine (I know they're fuel injected). I started it and the engine revved to like 4K before I turned it off and was like "WTF?" and so I let it set for 20 minutes, came out and started it again. I did the same thing last night, hoping to reverse something I'd done. It did it again, but while I was driving, I punched and released it while I was going like 20 mph, and it would stick for a split second. Is this part of my problem? I'm just hoping it's not a clogged EGR valve, 'cuz I'm hearin' those run an arm and a leg.
        1992 Arctic White Firebird<br />3.1L V6, TB Coolant Bypass, CAI, Turbo Muffler, other little things.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html</a> <br /><br />\". . .Finger in the air and the flag still wavin\'. . .\"

        Comment


        • #5
          my camaro does that.. i have a dead battery
          96 Camaro M5. Dark metallic gree (?dont know the offical color name)<br />Home made Intake :: Headers, 3inch headers back to Flowmaster muffler :: spec stage 3 clutch Now installed, waiting for 3.42\'s and LSD next month<br /><a href=\"http://photobucket.com/albums/y192/RiceEatingCamaro/?action=view&current=newcar.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">My Car</a> <br /><br />Totalled Car.<br /><a href=\"http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/k/sk8er305/\" target=\"_blank\">96 CamaroRS</a>

          Comment


          • #6
            Is this AIC part of the AIR (Air Injection Reaction) system? Where's this AIC located at. I figure if nothin' else, I'll just replace it and hope it fixes it. If not, I'll have a new AIC in there.
            1992 Arctic White Firebird<br />3.1L V6, TB Coolant Bypass, CAI, Turbo Muffler, other little things.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html</a> <br /><br />\". . .Finger in the air and the flag still wavin\'. . .\"

            Comment


            • #7
              your AIC, actually IAC-typo on earlier post, is the small black cylinder shaped thing sticking out of your throttle body on the passenger side. It has a sensor relay pluged into it and is held in place by two torx screws. It's right by where the rubber air intake goes into the throttle body. Just remove the relay and unscrew the two torx screws. Give it a little tug and it pops right out. I'm hoping that'll fix your problem.

              Heres a pic I found on the net to help you:
              IAC
              <a href=\"http://home.earthlink.net/~spcboshears/\" target=\"_blank\">That other car is going to give Trans Am a terrible reputation</a>

              Comment


              • #8
                those 3.1 parts are funny lookin' ;) [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

                what's a smog pump? [img]tongue.gif[/img] [img]tongue.gif[/img] [img]tongue.gif[/img]
                1978 Formula 461 in progress of being built :rock:
                2013 Ram 1500 Big Horn

                former owner of 85 bird w/ 2.8 - 3.4 - 3800 II - 5.0
                94 comero 3.4

                Comment


                • #9
                  If the IAC part is in-fact the problem, wouldn't it affect the idle RPM's? My problem almost feels like a fuel-delivery problem, but I'm certainly not ruling out the IAC. My car idles as smooth as always, but it's like at the bottom of 1st gear that my problems occur, and only when I'm slowing down--pickup is great, everything's awesome, just that 10-15 mph slowdown. I'm gonna' go buy some high-powered gas cleaner this afternoon. Any reccomendations?
                  1992 Arctic White Firebird<br />3.1L V6, TB Coolant Bypass, CAI, Turbo Muffler, other little things.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html</a> <br /><br />\". . .Finger in the air and the flag still wavin\'. . .\"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I went with some fuel cleaner, that helped pretty good at first. My IAC was well gone though when I replaced it, it was buring really rich, acting like it wasn't getting enough air, not really like a fuel delivery problem, you could smell it in the exhaust. Not only would the idle stutter while slowing down, but would continue to stutter at a full stop, most of the time stalling. Acceleration was not affected, just slowing down and stoping was a problem. I would go with the fuel cleaner first, and maybe some octane booster too, then take it out and really open her up (might be some carbon buildup that you can burn off by giving her a good run with the increased octane). It's a lot cheaper that way so you don't end up with a part you don't need.
                    <a href=\"http://home.earthlink.net/~spcboshears/\" target=\"_blank\">That other car is going to give Trans Am a terrible reputation</a>

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Well, I don't know if it was a cold weather problem or just a sensor taking a long time to reset or what (I've had to disconnect the battery cable several times in the last few weeks), but it's like the problem is working itself out for now (knock on wood). I poured some Slick-50 Fuel Treatment into it about 15 miles ago and with a 1/2 tank of gas. It's already feelin' better, but I'm not counting on anything 'till after a day or two. Thanks for all the help with the IAC and I kinda' had an idea of what part you were talkin' about, but I wanted to be sure. And like I said, I'm certainly not ruling out the IAC, but for now the fuel cleaner might be the trick. Big thanks though. I do appreciate the help.
                      1992 Arctic White Firebird<br />3.1L V6, TB Coolant Bypass, CAI, Turbo Muffler, other little things.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/colinobu/MyHomepage.html</a> <br /><br />\". . .Finger in the air and the flag still wavin\'. . .\"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sounds like your good to go. You actually have to reset the idle after batery disconect.
                        I tried it and it smothed out my idle. Something like start the engine, shift into drive, run until the fan comes on. Shut of engine, wait 15-30 seconds, restart, put in drive and run till fan comes on again. After that just take it out and drive the hell out of it. 3.1s have a good brain on 'em, they're just slow learners! Good luck, man!
                        <a href=\"http://home.earthlink.net/~spcboshears/\" target=\"_blank\">That other car is going to give Trans Am a terrible reputation</a>

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          what he said.

                          Also, if you trully believe that a bottle of fuel injector cleaner made it feel tha much better, see about taking it i somewhere for professional cleaning on the car. what they should do is disable the fuel pump & run their cleaner/fuel pressureized through the schrader valve for about 45-60 min. alternative is to replace them or take them out for cleaning, but that's too much of a pain :mad:
                          1978 Formula 461 in progress of being built :rock:
                          2013 Ram 1500 Big Horn

                          former owner of 85 bird w/ 2.8 - 3.4 - 3800 II - 5.0
                          94 comero 3.4

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I would have to agree with Army F Body. I know you said the problem is fixing itself. If you dont want to spend the 50 on a new IAC part then at least I would go and get some Carb Spray cleaner or Fuel Injection Spray cleaner and remove the I AC and clean it out. The IAC has a spring at the end of it whichs controls the idle. After ten or so years that thing gets clogged up with gunk. That is why when you come to a stop it does the crazy up and down idle thing. My car did it as well and that was the first thing I replaced. Also, clean out the hole it came out of and then take the rubber hose from the Throttle Body off and spray in there. Spray the flap and the hinges. It will be hard to start it after you spray but it will start. I am I am telling you it helps.

                            ~Josh~
                            1992 Firebird 3.1<br />16.61@80.70<br />CCAI With K&N Filter<br />DynoMax Cat-Back Exhaust<br />KYBs Shocks and Struts<br />Hotchkis Performance Coils<br />Everything else stock for now!!!

                            Comment

                            Latest Topics

                            Collapse

                            • Dongrossmd
                              Throttle Position Sensor trouble shooting
                              by Dongrossmd
                              I’m new. I actually don’t own a Camaro or firebird. I do have a 2000 Camaro 3.8 fly by throttle and 4l60e. This is installed in a 1980 Triumph TR7...
                              2 weeks ago
                            • ssms5411
                              New stereo
                              by ssms5411
                              Not much going on, replaced my Kenwood double din stereo with a Pioneer double din, the Kenwood had problems. Then replaced my power inverter for my reverse...
                              2 weeks ago

                            FORUM SPONSORS

                            Collapse
                            Working...
                            X