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have any of you gentelmen looked into a semi manual valve body for the 700R4 and after market shifters? if so fill me in on your adventures... im having trouble locating information on the subject...
i figure you guys would have more info seeing as only one year 4th gen had the 700R4
What info are you looking for about the valve bodys? I have rebuilt enough of them now that I would like to consider myself knowledgeable. The 700s in our vehicles are pretty much manuals if you just shift it like a manual. Meaning if you leave it in 1st (1), it should never shift. If yours doesn't work that way, then something is wrong with it. Just make sure that you try it before you install that torque convertor so you notice the difference.
Yes, I rebuilt the current trans in my car. The shift kit does the same thing has what you just did manually. The kits are $100 or more and you need to have knowledge of the valve body BEFORE you attempt to install one. What controls the shift points in the valve body is fluid pressure versus spring pressure. When fluid pressure exceeds the spring pressure, the valve is moved allowing fluid to flow into different passages and vice versa. The shift kit includes new springs so you can customize how you want the car to shift. Stronger springs will let the car shift later and softer ones make it shift sooner. I got the kit more for the seals and such since I manually shift the car.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Phoenix: Just note that changing the springs and weights in the governor changes your shift points, changing springs in the vavle body makes the shifts firmer.<hr></blockquote>
Not true. The governor controls line pressures, not shift points. Changing the springs in the accumulators changes the firmness of the shifts.
I've installed this to change the shift points in my car. Line pressure is changed by the throttle valve, the governor spins weights when it spins fast enough the weights in it overcome the line pressure and the tranny shifts.
[ January 10, 2004: Message edited by: Phoenix ]
[ January 10, 2004: Message edited by: Phoenix ]</p>
Jerriko, you are right about changing the springs in the accumulators changes the firmness of shifts, in the kit I got it flat replaces the springs with spacers which maybe a little harsh for some.
Ok, I don't think you understand how it really works. The governor regulates line pressure. Line pressure versus spring pressure is what controls the shift points. Granted, you can change ALL of the shift points across the board but this is not healthy if you don't install a shift kit at the same time. The increased line pressure will tear the seals apart. But still the governor controls line pressure and line pressure only. If the governor actually controlled the shift points, there would be no reason to have a 1-2 valve, 2-3 valve, 3-4 valve, 4-3 valve, 3-2 valve and 2-1 valve in the valve body. The governor is related to the shift points but it doesn't control them. Think about it, if the 2-3 valve was to stick, it would mess up the 2-3 shift.
So when you changed out the springs in your valve body during you rebuild it changed your shift points? I know mine didn't all it did was shift harder.
It depends what springs you put back into your valve body. Did you compare the new ones with the old ones? Besides, the increased line pressure will have more to do with the harder shifting than the valve springs. The accumulator is just a hole that fluid has to will the fluid pressure. The smaller the hole, the stiffer the accumulator spring, or the increased line pressure will fill the accumulator quicker maker for a quicker, harder shift.
Not much going on, replaced my Kenwood double din stereo with a Pioneer double din, the Kenwood had problems. Then replaced my power inverter for my reverse...
Hi all new to the community here. I have a 2014 RS 6 speed manual... and so about a year ago my tail lights got cracked and eventually the plastic housing...
3 weeks ago
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