5.7 IROC 350TPI wiring/vac line question....

[clean2000birdv6]

ok,
this:
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/2295/061905_1917.jpg
is a rather weak picture that i took with my cell phone. It's the coil on the back of my buddy's 1989 IROC Z-28. he bought the car with a blown engine that was half dissasembled, so rewiring the new crate motor into it has been fun. We belive that we have everything hooked up correctly, as all the connections are hooked up. however, being that we have no more plugs, or vacume lines left, i'm wondering if anyone knows what goes to the 2 connections that are inside of that red circle i drew in. I know this is a V6 board, but then again, I also know that alot of you guys are guru's with anything F-body. any feedback would be appreciated.
thanks

[Jerriko]

Is there a way you can get a pic of the connector?

[clean2000birdv6]

that's the thing....
i don't have any plugs left from the wire harness to plug into it.
one conenction kind of resembles a vac line connection, and the other appears to be an electrical.
we've got the whole motor back together, and we tried to start it last night.
something is not letting the starter get power at all. I turned on the headlights, and turned the key.... the head lights don't even dim. the dash gauges zero out, but the starter makes no effort to turn. which tells me that there's an electrical problem somewhere. Possibly with the ignition because it has the GM chip in the key?? would a grounding wire not being connected propperly cause the motor to not even make an effort to turn over? I hate electrical problems.

[3.4 slow to go]

it almost sounds like a map sensor, but that shouldn't even keep the car from cranking. Is the security light coming on?

[clean2000birdv6]

that is an excellant question.
it's got the chip in the key, but i never looked for the security light.
i'm going to guess that it's somewhere in the instrument cluster.
what does it mean if it comes on?
or if it blinks or something like that?
or what if it doesn't come on?

[Jerriko]

If the light comes on, the car will not start. If it doesn't come on, it's not the problem unless the bulb is burned out. Was the motor the only thing worked on or were there other things worked on at the same time.

[clean2000birdv6]

ok, here's the full story (or at least the one we know)
the car was purchased and driven for 5 years. one day the guys wife ran over some road debris and cut the bottom collant hose.
she drove it home, and got it so hot that she warped the hell out of the block/heads.
the people just thought it was a blown head gasket, so they changed the head gaskets on it. after they finished getting the head gaskets changed, they drove it 30' up the street b4 it started blowing coolant again (because the heads were warped so bad. so the guy parked it for a few years. then he decided to change the motor. he disconected all of the wireing/vac lines, and took off the upper intake, then gave up on the job.
the car was sold to my friend with the upper intake off, and all the wires/vac lines disconected.

so we ordered a block with heads straight from gm, and my uncle checked the intakes at his machine shop....they were fine. so we put it all back together. there us no security light that comes on.
so we thought we'd start testing for power.
On the starter celonoid, the purple saftey switch wire that comes from the neutral switch on the shifter, if you touch the test light to it, then ground the test light to the transmission (it was a good ground) then the ignition turns over the car. (it doesn't run...but it cranks at least)
could this mean that the neutral switch on the shifter is bad?

[ June 25, 2005, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: clean2000birdv6 ]

[Jerriko]

That or it more likely means that the igntion switch isn't supplied with power.

[clean2000birdv6]

then why after i ground out that purple wire that is on the celonoid to the transmission, does the ignition work.

[ June 27, 2005, 02:14 PM: Message edited by: clean2000birdv6 ]