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If your going with a cam Comp 105LB springs and modded retainers with Viton guides and Comp pushrods would be a nice upgrade, at least the valve springs so you don't have any valve float. I had valve float at 5700 RPMS with my VS cam which they say stock parts can be used but with 120,000 miles on mine they were worn out. So with 140,000 miles , might as well do it right. This next time for me Comp 130's ,double roller and Comp .105 pushrods are going in. Also you have to watch the install kiits from them since most of their products are for FWD.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
With 105's a double roller isn't needed they have less seat pressure in 90LBERs, I've ran mine for years now just get modded retainers and viton seals for extra clearnce, plus if anyone does a double roller they should use 130's at least or it would be a waste to install a double roller.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
If you're going with other valvetrain parts, why not get Abbott's N/A cam instead? I've been told it'll put out more power. I did 235rwhp/232rwtq on my car with still some room to play with the timing; I think it's abit of a freak though :P
If I may tack onto this thread - for those of you who have done cams, what is the most aggressive you can go without starting to run into "issues" with the motor? By issues I'm talking about idle problems, knock retard problems, or needing other upgrades (e.g. injectors, head work, etc) to make it run properly. Assume in this case a new cam install would include new (heavier) springs, retainers, and PCM retune.
I'm interested in doing a cam swap, but I don't want to have to do too much other stuff (besides what has been discussed above) to the motor to make it work right - definitely don't want to get into head work right now. The Comp Cams 255-HR12 is listed as 201/205 & 517/498, while the Abbott N/A cam is 210/220 & 512/512. The Abbott looks like it should be the better cam, but it is too much for what I want?
If I may tack onto this thread - for those of you who have done cams, what is the most aggressive you can go without starting to run into "issues" with the motor? By issues I'm talking about idle problems, knock retard problems, or needing other upgrades (e.g. injectors, head work, etc) to make it run properly. Assume in this case a new cam install would include new (heavier) springs, retainers, and PCM retune.
I'm interested in doing a cam swap, but I don't want to have to do too much other stuff (besides what has been discussed above) to the motor to make it work right - definitely don't want to get into head work right now. The Comp Cams 255-HR12 is listed as 201/205 & 517/498, while the Abbott N/A cam is 210/220 & 512/512. The Abbott looks like it should be the better cam, but it is too much for what I want?
i purchased a comp cam it was the most lift i could get w/o changing springs, etc i can get the name for you sometime later today ill shoot you a pm
it was the gt1 cam here is a link (better at low rpm as gt2 is better at higher rpm)
· 210°/210° at .050" · Intake Lift .317" (.507" lift at 1.6:1 rocker ratio) · Exhaust Lift .317" (.507" lift at 1.6:1 rocker ratio) ·113 LSA
When xsvtank and I were looking at the ZZP cams I called abbott and they said that none of their cams would work without heavier valve springs and retainers. I would give them a call t odouble check exactly what is needed.
Scott
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