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i think they are different, i've been searching a lot on 'tech and a few people have said that they're different. i'll find the threads if you want me to.
Cars with turbo setups have the potential for an unlimited amount of hp. If you are worried about engine bay heat you could always go with a rear mount setup. I think 370 at the crank with a good rear mount setup is more than acheivable. Meth would probably not be necessary. Probably alot cheaper too.
I forgot about the rear-mount setup option, I could do that too. I really like the under the hood option though mainly because when you pop open the hood in car shows you get tons of props and plus its slightly more efficient when its cooler. I kinda would like to go with the turbo setup but I am very concerned what it would do to a stock motor with 120k miles.
They made different steering racks between the V6 and LS1 from 98-02. If your car is not a Y87, you'll need to get an LS1 steering rack. The output nub angle on the steering rack and steering ratios are different between V6 and V8s because of the location of the LS1 alternator, and there are even differing racks between 98-99 and 00-02 LS1 years, most likely due the changing use and configuration of the EGR and AIR pumps. Either way, you'll need to get an LS1/Y87 steering rack and coupler.
Mine is a Y87 so it looks like I get to keep the steering rack ^_^.
If you went turbo route even FFH's or under K with tub. K member at 7 PSI people have dynoed 320 WRHP and with a good intercooler you intake temps might be 20-40 degrees over ambient so if it is 115 degrees and with the hot pavement 130 degress you'll only be 150-170 degrees at WOT with the turbo and the methanol you can set it up so it comes on a a certain PSI like 4 PSI to WOT which would cool it down even more, so heat wouldn't be too bad. They make heat covers for the hot side to reduce underhood temps and burning wires. Then you could have a electric boost controller, then you could turn up the boost to 10-12 PSI when it cools down and with the right setup dyno 400-450 WRHP. My methanol kit is in the back trunk space comes with a 1.5 gallon tank with the progressive controller and pump mounted to it(Coolingmist setup), it sits right next to my battery box. To give some extra weight to the rear. I'm still doing a custom fan shroud setup with some 12" puller high flowing fans and also a 10" fan pushing on the tranny cooler and will mount another 10" pusher fan on the other side for more cooling. I also have a 3 core alm. radiator and run a 21-25 PSI radiator cap. A fan switch is also very good and my SS hood is vented to run air into the engine, it hit 87 degrees here yesterday and after stop and go in traffic with the stock fans its only got up to 190 degrees then started to drop back down to 180. With a free flowing exhaust and DP , I think my temps should stay under 200 degrees , even on the 120 degree days here. I still could of went with the LS2 option with a tub. K and headers and added it to my Hptuners(for about 11,000 total). But I do like the idea of the turbo( GT35R watercooled) since my engine is buillt already and if I can make 450 WRHP( in winter) and 320WRHP summer) on a 2900LB car it will be outstanding. So its all up to what you want.
I'd have absolutely no problem with running the turbo setup if I knew I could make 400 HP reliably with my driving conditions on a stock 120k mile motor (100 Miles per day, 115 Degree Heat + Humidity.) Lets say I used heat shields, inter cooler, bigger fans, bigger radiator, and ran 12 PSI in the summer... Would this work out okay? ... ALSO what if I sought power from other sources, running 8 PSI consistently year round and a turbo grind cam with P&P Heads, Intake, and Throttle Body? Would I meet my power goals with that?
Even with a motor swap nothing is reliable and even with a turbo and every mod in the book , stuff happens, so even with a LS2 you could have problems since its a used engine same as the other ones. I had my 3.8 built with forged pistons, L32 rods and Clev. 77 bearings , this was about 7 years, 45,000+ miles, ran a Powerdyne about 260-300 WRHP with 8-10 PSI for about 3 years, then switched to nitrous ran 100 to 150 shots of nitrous without no problems. Now getting ready to run 8-12 PSI depending on temp with my GT35R turbo which is watercooled also so either you can do your best to set it up right and get a wideband and hptuners to make sure the tune is good. I think alot of people having troubles is they don't have a wideband and a ood safe tune. You can push a LS2 N/A to its limits and blow something as easy with running lean with a turbo and blowing somethig. Its your choice in what you want, noone can decide for you , you should already know which direction you want to go.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Even with a motor swap nothing is reliable and even with a turbo and every mod in the book , stuff happens, so even with a LS2 you could have problems since its a used engine same as the other ones. I had my 3.8 built with forged pistons, L32 rods and Clev. 77 bearings , this was about 7 years, 45,000+ miles, ran a Powerdyne about 260-300 WRHP with 8-10 PSI for about 3 years, then switched to nitrous ran 100 to 150 shots of nitrous without no problems. Now getting ready to run 8-12 PSI depending on temp with my GT35R turbo which is watercooled also so either you can do your best to set it up right and get a wideband and hptuners to make sure the tune is good. I think alot of people having troubles is they don't have a wideband and a ood safe tune. You can push a LS2 N/A to its limits and blow something as easy with running lean with a turbo and blowing somethig. Its your choice in what you want, noone can decide for you , you should already know which direction you want to go.
You're correct here, but Turbo cars are a lot less tolerant to error than N/A cars and plus your motor was built to sustain the pressures involved, mine isn't so it can detonate a lot easier than yours will. But I could get a dud motor, pop a spring, ingest it into the valve and destroy a piston and it could go sour just as easily, it's just not quite as likely.
I understand what you're saying though because I have been planning this for months and haven't come across a viable solution and I seem to be rambling on. I understand this, I just want to build a permanent setup right from the start and not run into blowing my motor during my drives. I know a guy with a 3.4 had his turbo'd at 120k miles and revved up to 6800 RPMS consistantly and it didn't blow until 217k miles... almost 100k miles of turbo. My engine doesn't seem like its in bad shape, runs very strong for a 3.8 and sometimes it surprises me.
Tune is definitely the key with a Turbo setup. I know who will do the tune as well. If I set it up, If its tuned right, will 12 PSI be within limits and will it sustain summer heat without meth? If not I will probably run 9 PSI and concentrate on motor mods, turbo grind cam and P&P Top End... Bottom end should not be hurt with 9 PSI right?
Our motors can take pretty much anything you throw at them. With a heavy block and cast iron heads there really isnt a lot that can hurt them permenatley. Theres alot of guys up here with turbo'd cars that have 100K or over on their motors. But like Ssms said anything can go wrong with any car. In reality a turbo 3.8 build for around 350 is probably more reliable than a LS2 or something built for 400 N/A.
Our motors can take pretty much anything you throw at them. With a heavy block and cast iron heads there really isnt a lot that can hurt them permenatley. Theres alot of guys up here with turbo'd cars that have 100K or over on their motors. But like Ssms said anything can go wrong with any car. In reality a turbo 3.8 build for around 350 is probably more reliable than a LS2 or something built for 400 N/A.
yeah. I just have to sit down and think on it. As I said I like both ideas but I gatta have something that'll be ready to haul both summer / winter, regardless of conditions, heat, traffic, and can do so without meth. I like the price I can setup a Turbo kit for aswell, I would easily save a grand over the motor swap as I won't have to collect as much miscellaneous stuff. We'll see in the end man.
yep thats what its all about, contemplation and preparation. Ive thrown around the ideas of a Powerdyne, turbo, or swap for quite some time. But ive mad my decision basically cause its cheaper, and its not everyday you see a turbo v6 Fbody.
yep thats what its all about, contemplation and preparation. Ive thrown around the ideas of a Powerdyne, turbo, or swap for quite some time. But ive mad my decision basically cause its cheaper, and its not everyday you see a turbo v6 Fbody.
How is your car coming, whats the milage and how much boost are you running? Do you run meth and how often do you drive it and how far? I would probably be the only 3.8 Turbo in Atlanta if I ran a turbo setup. Great show car too... Do you believe 400 HP could be done in the motor reliably without breaking internal engine stuff provided the rest of the drivetrain was setup?
How is your car coming, whats the milage and how much boost are you running? Do you run meth and how often do you drive it and how far? I would probably be the only 3.8 Turbo in Atlanta if I ran a turbo setup. Great show car too... Do you believe 400 HP could be done in the motor reliably without breaking internal engine stuff provided the rest of the drivetrain was setup?
dude i havent even started bolting all of this crap to the car. Im just working on getting everything together. I plan on running about 7 lbs to start with. But i dont want to do more than 10 on the stock motor. and i need to get my copy of hp tuners so i can get some tuning experience in before i start running a turbo. I also want to put a cam, pushrods, retainers, springs, and a double roller in before the turbo. Ive seen alot of 3800 camaros running the MP t70. So thats what im going with .63 A/R. As for 400hp, i probably wouldnt want a 400 hp DD. But you could build it for 400 and then turn down the boost to keep the reliability, thats the beauty of it.
Okay, I've made up my mind. I've had alot of options lately between doing this motor upgrade, swap, or buying a 2010 Camaro SS... I test drove the 2010 Camaro SS and although it hauled, I still wasnt very impressed with it... at least not enough to pay $30k for it when I can have something just as fast out of my Firebird for at the most 1/3rd of the price.
I'm going for a LQ4 - L76 Clone... It will be running the same heads and compression as the L76 and beable to run 87 Octane while dishing out 400 HP...
Beggining next week - fuel pump will be installed Monday and motor swap begins after my 3.8's final trip to Florida - on Saturday... ((I need a new fuel pump anyway))
Sounds great, let us know how it comes along. Good luck.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Hey guys. For starters I’ve always been a big car guy, I love all types of cars and can appreciate all types of engineering. I’ve always been a Chevy...
Hello every one, ozzy here ive been looking at this page for weeks now finally joined. So my question is why is it that every turbo build forum just ends...
2 weeks ago
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