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Just go with new OE lifters and you should be fine. They will be less noisy compared to comps anyways. Also with the 105#s you will see less deflection in the pushrod as compared to 130#s. At the end of ZZ's tech article they attribute about .005" of growth to the pushrod to heat.
1) What is the install height on the 105# springs? is it 1.8"? The guy said he needs to know in order to cut down the valve guides, Im giving him the set of heads way before I do the work on the car, so its not like he can measure anything really.
2) the heads I have were not ported/polished in the chambers bowls....how much difference would this make? I am looking at getting the heads touched up a little by the shop, and just wondering if doing the chambers will make much of a difference?
3) what is the max lift that the stock heads can handle?
I am not sure what the magic number is, but you can run a cam with .320" / .512" lift with 1.6:1 rockers on stock form heads. A cam with .335" / .536" lift with 1.6:1 rockers requires mod'd retainers which allow an additional .030" clearance from the valve seal. It looks like the mod'd retainers could be used as an alternative to cutting down the valve guides, but I believe they are designed for LS1 style springs.
As far as working over the bowls IMO even though you may be talking about a handful of horsepower its totally worth it.
I am not sure what the magic number is, but you can run a cam with .320" / .512" lift with 1.6:1 rockers on stock form heads. A cam with .335" / .536" lift with 1.6:1 rockers requires mod'd retainers which allow an additional .030" clearance from the valve seal. It looks like the mod'd retainers could be used as an alternative to cutting down the valve guides, but I believe they are designed for LS1 style springs.
As far as working over the bowls IMO even though you may be talking about a handful of horsepower its totally worth it.
$350 worth it? lol... I forgot about the modded retainers. These guides aren't cut down at all, so they have to be cut somewhere... man I've done more reading and cramming this week then I have ever done in school all my life...
man I've done more reading and cramming this week then I have ever done in school all my life...
I think it is, but I probably dont represent the opinion of the average CV6 member.
The way I see it is: there is a flexible list of mods you can do to increase hp/tq. Each one of these mods is going to end up with a dollar amount per horsepower, and each mod can be maxed out persay. The extra porting and polishing will end up being one of the more expensive dollar per hp mods. Ex: I spent about $850 on the exhaust including the ceramic coated headers, hi flo cat, 3" pipe, racing muffler and labor. Lets just say I gained 20hp. Thats $42.50 per hp. If the extra p&p gives you 8hp, thats $43.75 per hp. I know Im just kind of throwing #s around here, but it comes down to whether you are going to end up doing just about every mod you can afford to go faster, or if you will be happy with fewer mods and more people outrunning you. :eek:
The research can be overwhelming at times, but its really interesting for gearheads like us.
I think it is, but I probably dont represent the opinion of the average CV6 member.
The way I see it is: there is a flexible list of mods you can do to increase hp/tq. Each one of these mods is going to end up with a dollar amount per horsepower, and each mod can be maxed out persay. The extra porting and polishing will end up being one of the more expensive dollar per hp mods. Ex: I spent about $850 on the exhaust including the ceramic coated headers, hi flo cat, 3" pipe, racing muffler and labor. Lets just say I gained 20hp. Thats $42.50 per hp. If the extra p&p gives you 8hp, thats $43.75 per hp. I know Im just kind of throwing #s around here, but it comes down to whether you are going to end up doing just about every mod you can afford to go faster, or if you will be happy with fewer mods and more people outrunning you. :eek:
The research can be overwhelming at times, but its really interesting for gearheads like us.
I see what your saying...Im taking the heads back to the shop tommorrow, and I am going to see if he can tweak the price a little bit...talk to him a little more in depth about the situation...I have also been reading into valve shrouding and such.
The guy does not reccommend me to mill the heads down any for compression. He said that by milling down the heads you are decreasing your displacement...said the only good way of increasing your compression is to go about it by doing pistons.
Finally, since my brain is fried at the moment, I can't remember if the grand prix lower intake manifold gaskets are compatible with our cars...the guy included the LIM gasket for me, but didn't give me those rubber pieces...
they are not millsed currently, but they do have a 0.0001-0.0002 warp in them, which is well within gm spec of not needing to mill them down according to the guy
I plan to...thats the whole dilema...is stock pushrods are 7.02-7.03, I went to a 7.05 hardened pushrod when I did the cam swap...now I am loosing 0.008 from going with a thinner headgasket, AND I need to mill the heads on top of that...so at what point do I need to go with a 7.00"
Thats a tough one right there. I heard with the Comp OEM lifters you can get away with more on having the wrong pushrod length. You might try emailing abbott or even call him and discuss whats going on. I am sure he can tell you what you need since its his cam and he does alot of head jobs.
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