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Push it and turn it untill it stops seating in. If you fully removed it from the trans it should drop or click 3 or 4 times. I cant remember exactly. When you put the trans back on the engine there should be space between the converter and the flywheel. If there isnt it is not fully seated. Do not try to pull the trans up to the engine with the bellhousing bolts if it does not fit flush to the block. You will damage the converter and/or break the pump if you pull it up with the bolts. It should slide up next to the block without needing anything other than a push when lined up correctly on the dowel pins. If necessary, clean the dowels off with some scotch brite to make sure thats not causing the trans to stick.
ok, I never removed the torque converter...I only unbolted the motor and pulled it out, then lined the motor back up and pushed her together...so I dont need to be worried about it then? cause I never heard clicks while I pulled the motor out?
ok, I never removed the torque converter...I only unbolted the motor and pulled it out, then lined the motor back up and pushed her together...so I dont need to be worried about it then? cause I never heard clicks while I pulled the motor out?
The converter should still be seated then.
You only need to reseat it if you removed it.
When you put in a new converter or remove it completely you should turn and push until you hear two clicks or clunks then its seated.
BTW you ruin the tranny pump if its not seated right.
well she looked like she was ok, she was pretty far back and lined up perfectly with the flexplate
I got a request, can anyone gimmie a picture of how the wires go onto the starter? I think I am missing a wire, or I have it hooked up wrong...also, are there supposed to be teeth that connect to the flexplate? or do those only slide out when the car starts? I see gear teeth tucked into the starter, but they also look like they are inline to smack the flexplate if they slide out (like it doesnt look like it is lined up to go into the grove section)
Starter should be on the flexplate so it can start the car, they have shims to get it lined up perfect, thats how I did it o my other cars, since mine is a lifetime warranty on my Camaro its been replaced at the dealer.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
well she looked like she was ok, she was pretty far back and lined up perfectly with the flexplate
I got a request, can anyone gimmie a picture of how the wires go onto the starter? I think I am missing a wire, or I have it hooked up wrong...also, are there supposed to be teeth that connect to the flexplate? or do those only slide out when the car starts? I see gear teeth tucked into the starter, but they also look like they are inline to smack the flexplate if they slide out (like it doesnt look like it is lined up to go into the grove section)
this is normal, it is why you hear the ticking noise when your battery goes deal, the gear is coming out and smacking the flexplate/flywheel
edit* and you shouldnt need any shims when using a stock starter
this is normal, it is why you hear the ticking noise when your battery goes deal, the gear is coming out and smacking the flexplate/flywheel
edit* and you shouldnt need any shims when using a stock starter
ok, perfect...what about the wiring though? I only see one wire that leads down to the starter...then I see this small wire (probably has a 6mm bolt on it) then I dont have anything to plug into the other big terminal lol...but there is a piece of wire that comes off of the starter itself...I've been wondering if that wire plugs into itself on the left side of the starter where the "s" is, then the other big cable gets bolted onto the big terminal beside it...then the tiny wire goes on the tiny terminal...is that right?
There is still more carnage in the block itself...the bottom of the cylinders are chewed up on some parts, gouges everywhere...looks like a mini freddy crougar got loose in my block :naughty:
Looks kinda like mine, only a little worse. Mine was still running, how about yours? Mine was the passenger side, but it also cracked around the motor mounts. Guess the large bolt holes for the mounts make a weak spot?
thats not cracked , its just see through.LOL Your lucky your engine didn't catch on fire. Nice pics though, I had a bad engine fire when my old 83' cavy was going up a mountain and got too hot and blew a hole in the block about golf ball size and burned up all the wiring , took me the summer to get it all rewired and up and running.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
So my truck is finally getting some work done, after 17 years, Oil pressure sensor went out and it’s located under the lower intake manifold. Have to...
Hey guys. For starters I’ve always been a big car guy, I love all types of cars and can appreciate all types of engineering. I’ve always been a Chevy...
need help finding a balancer and a replacement balancer bolt. im at a lost after confusing myself researching.
4 weeks ago
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