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do you mean take the oil pan off and put a block of wood up there to block the crank? Would that harm the crank at all? (dont care about the old block, but the new motor matters)
thats exactly what im saying.
and i would just use one end of a hammer or something, you can put it against a counterweight, it wont damage the crank
alright...just making sure...I finally got the motor out today so I'll put up some pictures tonight of the damage...diagnoses was right...spun a bearing and threw a rod...but I grenaded this sucker good!...she really went out with a bang...I cracked the flipping block!! ...also found out I bent two valves which I didn't see/notice before :(
didnt get a picture of the cracked block, Maybe I'll grab one when the front cover comes off, then you can see a whole chunk missing, cause that corner will just fall off...
well one thing is for sure lol
you have a bit of burnt oil on your assembly it seems.
either oil temps are to high. or the oil isn't changed as frequent as they should with the type of driving you do.
Hell..i change mine every 1500-2000 miles.
I tore my motor apart about 8 months ago and the crank looked like a damn quarter just about.
lol.
i use 10-40 Pennzoil platinum and ultra.
along with Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer and a quart of mobil 1 trans fluid every 3rd oil change. much safer than doing a FULL engine flush with that kerosene mixer b-s they tell you to use.
every 5,000km (3,125 miles) or every 3 months...whichever came first. never after. I am the second owner, previous owner was the same way and I have the paperwork to prove it...How do you see burn't oil lol? I dont even know what that looks like...
your correct.
oil doesn't simply burn like gas. but it does burn to a degree. Making it black./watery/smell terrible/ (like a head bolt when takin out)
when oil burns.
its called thermal breakdown and dramatically reduces viscosity which is more commonly found in cheaper oils.
well...its not essentially THE BURNT OIL you see its the petroleum deposits from the poor oil quality that cake up on the assembly and burn on.(which will alter the rods/crank/pistons ability to release heat efficiently.)
its called Varnish/carbon/blah blah blah.
When the OIL viscosity breaks down to a certain point, it becomes more of a fluid than a lubricant thus providing a terrible environment that does not displace heat evenly and does not lubricate correctly. Over time it will have what is called.
Fuel contamination. (which is why oil is "watery" when it hasn't been changed in sometime.)
Wide open throttle will hurry this affect.
(more rpms more heat blah blah blah)
Ive found that the Pennzoil of TODAY not yesteryear. has a great product with facts backing it. that's why i use it in everything i own.(i change mine every 1500-2000 miles)
every 3 thousand when i hardly drive it. or drive it (Normaly) "slow"lol
YOU have to remember that 3 thousand miles is for the AVERAGE person who has an average car. who drives like an average person.
My engine is not driven by a granny.
I push it to 6300 rpms more so than not it seems.
and still drives and runs like shes brand new.
ahh, ok...well then, that burnt oil could be caused from the bad valve seals I had before I swapped my head this past May then lol...then as far as gasoline goes...my fuel rail went nuts when I took it off...just started spurting fuel everywhere...so I dumped it all in the engine cause I had nothing to catch it at the time...already put a nice size hole in the driveway ...
I didnt use synthetic on this engine because I had oil leaks that I tried having fixed...new pan and 2 new rear main seals, but had no luck....So I choose to to use synthetic because it would just make the leak worse.
In this new engine, I will be running break in oil for probably about 500km's, then hopefully switching over to synthetic.
The first new car I ever bought was a 1987 VW Fox. From day 1 I used Mobil 1 for every oil change. Changed oil twice a year and when I got rid of the car after 10 years, it had 550,000 KM(345,000 miles) on it. The engine still ran great,, but the body had rusted around it. So I'm a believer in synthetic oil.
P.S. I was 19 when I bought that car and I drove it hard. As hard as you can drive an 85hp car, lol
I use synthetic in all of my engines, including the lawn mower.
My first new car was a 1987 Cavalier. I started using Mobil 1 at 70K miles when I learned how to change my own oil. When I got rid of it 15 years later it also still ran like new. It had 293K miles. Like yours, the body rusted around it. At 250K I had to replace the headgasket. I was shocked at how perfectly clean the internals were. It literally looked brand new. Mobil 1 all the way man!
alright new question...can I use the fwd oil pan in my car? I think I read you can't because it doesnt clear the K frame...but I have the PA racing K frame...does that make any difference? It's a much nicer pan...would love to keep it if I could...plus it makes for less headaches...
In this new engine, I will be running break in oil for probably about 500km's, then hopefully switching over to synthetic.
you dont need break-in oil unless for some reason you are installing a flat tappet cam. I would however use cheap oil for break-in since you will be changing it after a few hundred miles
every 5,000km (3,125 miles) or every 3 months...whichever came first. never after. I am the second owner, previous owner was the same way and I have the paperwork to prove it...How do you see burn't oil lol? I dont even know what that looks like...
that piston and rod look very dirty, i have pictures of the piston i took out of my engine and the rod and they looked really clean if you wanted to see what it really looks like.. although its hard to tell by your pictures, it could have just been covered with dirty oil making it look worse than it actually is
The first new car I ever bought was a 1987 VW Fox. From day 1 I used Mobil 1 for every oil change. Changed oil twice a year and when I got rid of the car after 10 years, it had 550,000 KM(345,000 miles) on it. The engine still ran great,, but the body had rusted around it. So I'm a believer in synthetic oil.
P.S. I was 19 when I bought that car and I drove it hard. As hard as you can drive an 85hp car, lol
I use synthetic in all of my engines, including the lawn mower.
My first new car was a 1987 Cavalier. I started using Mobil 1 at 70K miles when I learned how to change my own oil. When I got rid of it 15 years later it also still ran like new. It had 293K miles. Like yours, the body rusted around it. At 250K I had to replace the headgasket. I was shocked at how perfectly clean the internals were. It literally looked brand new. Mobil 1 all the way man!
my opinion on synthetic, is its a waste of money. check your oil after 3,000 miles, it is black, which means it is dirty, synthetic oil will just be as dirty as dino oil.
take apart any engine and the ones with oil changes done every 3,000 miles will be cleaner than oil changes done every 6,000+ miles with synthetic.
if i bought a new car, i would use synthetic, but i would still do 3,000 mile oil changes.
a friend of mines dealership did independent tests on oil, including the most common brands, mobil1, pennzoil, quakerstate, castrol, valvoline, etc. and they found that the valvoline synthetic came out on top. If you look at oil tests done online, the mobil1 didnt fair too well. GM uses mobil1 because they were given the best deal for buying bulk oil by them.
i used to see everyone praise mobil1 like it came from heaven, but i dont see it as much after they got their synthetic rating taken away.
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...also found out I bent two valves which I didn't see/notice before :(
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