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ya, my only thinking is, is 4compression points (with my milled heads) really worth going to a .045 gasket over a .062 gasket for 110$ more? like, is it really going to be that much of a difference? or am I looking at maybe 10hp at the crank if Im lucky...
ya, my only thinking is, is 4compression points (with my milled heads) really worth going to a .045 gasket over a .062 gasket for 110$ more? like, is it really going to be that much of a difference? or am I looking at maybe 10hp at the crank if Im lucky...
couple more questions...Im stuck at the transmission...How do I get to the flex plate bolts (big and small ones)...do I need to rotate the driveshaft? (I was thinking I did, but I dont have a second set of jackstands in the meantime.
Also, do those metal side brackets that bolt into the inspection cover Need to go back on?? I got the drivers side off, but the SOB took me over an hour... I'm thinking along the lines of some weight savings...
couple more questions...Im stuck at the transmission...How do I get to the flex plate bolts (big and small ones)...do I need to rotate the driveshaft? (I was thinking I did, but I dont have a second set of jackstands in the meantime.
Also, do those metal side brackets that bolt into the inspection cover Need to go back on?? I got the drivers side off, but the SOB took me over an hour... I'm thinking along the lines of some weight savings...
Get a 15/16th wrench or socket and then turn the motor.
I run Fel Pro's in my car with ARP's. Anything over 500whp I would go to MLS gaskets but they're fine for your purposes. I have re-used MLS gaskets before, but copper sprayed the crap out of them.
couple more questions...Im stuck at the transmission...How do I get to the flex plate bolts (big and small ones)...do I need to rotate the driveshaft? (I was thinking I did, but I dont have a second set of jackstands in the meantime.
Also, do those metal side brackets that bolt into the inspection cover Need to go back on?? I got the drivers side off, but the SOB took me over an hour... I'm thinking along the lines of some weight savings...
the driveshaft should be off at this point.
you dont take the flexplate off until you have removed the transmission/torque converter
well first I am removing the torque converter so that I can get to the tiny bolts for the flexplate...but the driveshaft is on the other end of the transmission? Why would it need to come off?
something I just thought about...Can I get the cam and front pulley off of the engine while it is out of the car? I know while its in the car I had to jam the flywheel to get that crank bolt off and such...how Would I stop that all from spinning when I go to pull the bolt off with the motor out of the car???
something I just thought about...Can I get the cam and front pulley off of the engine while it is out of the car? I know while its in the car I had to jam the flywheel to get that crank bolt off and such...how Would I stop that all from spinning when I go to pull the bolt off with the motor out of the car???
just have someone hold the flexplate with a rag to get the balancer off, and after you have the engine out get a piece of wood and put it in the block so the crank cant turn to loosen the flexplate bolts
do you mean take the oil pan off and put a block of wood up there to block the crank? Would that harm the crank at all? (dont care about the old block, but the new motor matters)
So my truck is finally getting some work done, after 17 years, Oil pressure sensor went out and it’s located under the lower intake manifold. Have to...
Hey guys. For starters I’ve always been a big car guy, I love all types of cars and can appreciate all types of engineering. I’ve always been a Chevy...
need help finding a balancer and a replacement balancer bolt. im at a lost after confusing myself researching.
4 weeks ago
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