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The dsc1 is now a no go FOR now.
My friend said he is going to try and just use his current one.
he is wanting to get about 18 psi out of it but just found out that its capable of 22 so.
He is going to stick with that for now.
AS for my build.
its still a-go. SO
what do i need to change for a N/A build.
All I can say is I hope you have someone who has built a 3800II engine up before becuase your going to run into alot of problems I foresee if your doing it yourself.
agreed. i guess thats what we are here for. clean up the pieces. lol.
JE makes a 9.9:1, but if your going NA for now I would leave the bottom end alone and go all out on the cam. Save the money from the bottom end and get some headers, roller rockers and run a thinner head gasket. In case you go forced induction later you wont have wasted money on setting up the bottom end for na.
JE makes a 9.9:1, but if your going NA for now I would leave the bottom end alone and go all out on the cam. Save the money from the bottom end and get some headers, roller rockers and run a thinner head gasket. In case you go forced induction later you wont have wasted money on setting up the bottom end for na.
agreed except for rockers, if you are going all out on the cam, no need for rockers
of my car now?
lol
the motor isnt even in it bro.
Havent even sent the ok for building it since there is now a pause. because of the dsc1 procharger that is now not going to be an option for now.
Regarding cams, I have a question maybe someone can answer. Somewhere recently I read (I don't remember where though) that on the 3800 II, if you install a double-roller timing chain, it won't fit inside the stock timing cover. Is this true? If you must install a different timing cover, does it interfere with anything else? Or does it just bolt on and you're done with it?
Regarding cams, I have a question maybe someone can answer. Somewhere recently I read (I don't remember where though) that on the 3800 II, if you install a double-roller timing chain, it won't fit inside the stock timing cover. Is this true? If you must install a different timing cover, does it interfere with anything else? Or does it just bolt on and you're done with it?
I've heard it's an issue as well. You really don't need a double roller for a V6. You won't see crazy high seat pressures. A good single should be all you ever need. I've never heard of anyone blowing apart a timing chain. Why create a problem?
Regarding cams, I have a question maybe someone can answer. Somewhere recently I read (I don't remember where though) that on the 3800 II, if you install a double-roller timing chain, it won't fit inside the stock timing cover. Is this true? If you must install a different timing cover, does it interfere with anything else? Or does it just bolt on and you're done with it?
I do believe you have to mill out the cover. But I wouldn't use a double-roller unless you're doing some kind of power adder, high rev, etc.
1995 Pontiac Firebird
2008 Chevrolet Silverado LT Crew Cab 4x4
The double roller timing chain is a necessity for 130+ lb valve springs because the added pressure puts a ton of wear on the chain tensioner which would be removed with a doubler roller timing chain. I had 130's on my car for a few months before getting a double roller and my tensioner had DEEP grooves in it. Im surprised it didnt fail.
If you get a cam you dont necessarily need 130# springs, 105's will do just fine (on an N/A build) in which case you wouldnt need a double roller timing chain either.
And yes, you need a milled oil pump cover as well if you get a double roller. You also need to use a Fel-pro paper front cover gasket instead of the GM metal gasket because the paper gasket gives more clearance.
The double roller timing chain is a necessity for 130+ lb valve springs because the added pressure puts a ton of wear on the chain tensioner which would be removed with a doubler roller timing chain. I had 130's on my car for a few months before getting a double roller and my tensioner had DEEP grooves in it. Im surprised it didnt fail.
If you get a cam you dont necessarily need 130# springs, 105's will do just fine (on an N/A build) in which case you wouldnt need a double roller timing chain either.
And yes, you need a milled oil pump cover as well if you get a double roller. You also need to use a Fel-pro paper front cover gasket instead of the GM metal gasket because the paper gasket gives more clearance.
X2 on the milled oil pump cover , I got mine at ZZP , and the felpro gaskets. I would also do the oil PSI mod since you have it apart. Mine should be going in this week I hope for some new goodies.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
The double roller timing chain is a necessity for 130+ lb valve springs because the added pressure puts a ton of wear on the chain tensioner which would be removed with a doubler roller timing chain. I had 130's on my car for a few months before getting a double roller and my tensioner had DEEP grooves in it. Im surprised it didnt fail.
If you get a cam you dont necessarily need 130# springs, 105's will do just fine (on an N/A build) in which case you wouldnt need a double roller timing chain either.
And yes, you need a milled oil pump cover as well if you get a double roller. You also need to use a Fel-pro paper front cover gasket instead of the GM metal gasket because the paper gasket gives more clearance.
This. It was on the tip of my tongue....but I knew it had something to do with the valvetrain.
1995 Pontiac Firebird
2008 Chevrolet Silverado LT Crew Cab 4x4
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