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If its apart might as well get some clev. 77 bearings all around, did mine about 60,000 miles ago and still runs like a champ. Also ARP head studs is a nice option.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
If the engine is apart replace the cam bearings too.
Thats a whole lot more involved than just a crank swap, i wasnt planning on pulling the intake, valve covers, lifters and all that off.
I considered just getting a used motor but there really arent any low mileage motors to be found locally and i dont want to be in the same situation a few months down the road.
Have you thought about a L32 swap, should be alot of low mileage Buicks around.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Acording to the hayes manual lugging the engine to much, like beating the snot out of it will cause rod bearing failure by sqeezing the oil out of the bearing surface. My oil pressure drops to 55 if i lug it in over drive at 50 mph. 1500rpm just doesn't make peak oil pressure. My engine has roughly 180,000 miles on it though and car 245,000! Just my two cents.
My car does spend 90% of it's life at 50 mph in over drive. Most of the streets in south Florida are flat, straight and 3 lanes wide with a 45mph speed limit.
With that being said, I have been driving in these conditions since i moved here 24 years ago and this is the first bearing failure i have ever had. Im thinking thats probably not the cause, at least not in my particular situation.
You can use a L32 as long as you use your intakes,pan etc. You will have to tear it apart if replacing a rod.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
How did you plan on replacing the rod that spun the bearing and cleaning all the metal out of the oil passages with out removing the top end?
I was hoping the bearing didnt spin and that i would be able to get away with just changing the crank and bearings, but youre probably right about needing to tear it all the way down.
You can use a L32 as long as you use your intakes,pan etc. You will have to tear it apart if replacing a rod.
I wasnt thinking i would have to tear it all the way down.
It made a slight knock for about 3 seconds one day and went away, but when I started it the next day the knock never went away after starting it, so i just left it parked and didnt drive it at all. My initial hopes were that the rod or rods would be ok.
I think i'll probably go the used motor route. I think it might be a good idea for me to tear this motor down and see if i cant find the cause, that way if need be i can do some preventative maintenance to the new motor so this doesnt happen again.
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