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  • 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

    I have a 2000 3.8 convertible with a blown head gasket and had a couple questions. The first question is if it is possible to do the rebuild with the engine in the car. The second is if it is not possible to do the rebuild in the car is there other ways to drop the engine from the bottom without a lift as i only have a basic hyrdo floor jack and jack stands to my disposal as of right now.

  • #2
    Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

    You can rebuild the heads in the car, we just did it last April in mine. A easy way to do it is diconnecting it from the tranny and undo the shock towers and wiring. Then jack the front up until the front can be rolled out in 1 piece, install is the reverse.
    08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
    96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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    • #3
      Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

      Can you be more clear? What do you mean jack up the front until you can roll the front out? Are you speaking of rolling the engine out or just taking the heads out the front? I assure you I am not as dumb as i probably seem right now just trying to wrap my head around the entire process before I begin to tackle this seemingly daunting task. Any clarification would be awesome. Did you run into any problems when doing yours?

      Thanks

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      • #4
        Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

        There are pics of people doing it out the bottom , once you see the pics you'll know what I'm talking about. Its just rolling the engine out the bottom with the shocks and wheels still attached. If just doing the heads just leave it in and do it with the engine in the car. Only problem when we did the heads were the ARP head studs, I didn't have them all the way down and my headers were hitting the bolts, but found the problem and was a easy fix, I also went with MLS gaskets just make sure their cleaned real good and then spray them with copper spray. Other than that it was straight forward taking them off and puttiing on some new heads with Mainly valves and 130lb springs.It took about 2 weekends to do it. 1 weekend tearing it down and 1 installing it.
        08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
        96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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        • #5
          Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

          http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html

          Thats what I used for my engine pull. There was another one, but I cant find it right now. If I can locate it I'll post it up.
          Team NoVa

          2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.

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          • #6
            Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

            Thanks for posting that Flaming, thats exaclty what I was trying to say.
            08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
            96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

              The wooden frame lifters for the jack stands was what i was looking for. I didn't know how i could get enough clearance to get the motor out. Thanks! Now i start my search for a decent cherry picker and engine stand.

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              • #8
                Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

                This is the other one I used, and shows all the stuff to disconnect.

                http://www.myls1.com/myls1-com-install-guides/1808.htm
                Team NoVa

                2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

                  Ive only seen it removed from the top once, everyone dose it this way. To me it seems like alot (maybe cause I have yet to pull/drop the motor) Is it that hard to pull it from the top?
                  3M MAFIA
                  ________
                  | Dynomax Catback | Auburn Posi | 3:42s | B&M Ripper | DIY CAI | PVC Mod |
                  Next on the list: GT2 Cam| 105# Springs |Headwork| Headers |
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

                    Very few people do it from the top, I have seen one picture on here of someone who did it though the top. In order to do it that way you have to remove the radiator, and condenser coil, which means you have to break the seal on the a/c lines. From the bottom I took the compressor off of the engine before dropping it and didn't have to break the lines. It took me about 5 hours and that was mostly because I had to cut the exhaust pipe and couldn't get ahold of a saw to do it with. It was very little physical labor as well, and I have pulled the engine out of a 85 C10 which has way more room than our cars. Do as you please, but I found the bottom (and many other people) the best way to go.
                    Team NoVa

                    2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.

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                    • #11
                      Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

                      http://v6f-body.com/showthread.php?t=3318

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                      • #12
                        Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

                        I replaced my head gaskets 3 times before I figured out I had a spun bearing (thought I did the heads wrong each time). You can do them with the motor in the car. Only hard part for me was getting to the bolts on the back of the upper intake manifold. Its not too bad though, I got to where I could have the heads off in a couple hours, drink a few beers, then get to work replacing gaskets. When you do it, do yourself a favor and replace the little plastic coolant elbow on the front of the lower intake manifold, chances are it'll break when you pull the lower intake off.
                        1997 Chevrolet Camaro
                        L26, Pacesetter headers, SLP cai, Centerforce DF clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, UMI short stick, 1le driveline, J&M 35mm front swaybar, UMI lca's/phb/sfc's, KYB AGX shocks, Hotchkis stb.

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                        • #13
                          Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

                          Originally posted by fbodyrs96 View Post
                          That is an awesome write up.
                          Team NoVa

                          2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

                            Originally posted by fbodyrs96 View Post
                            Originally posted by flamingchicken View Post
                            That is an awesome write up.
                            X2... Thanks for this!!
                            In America's Hat!

                            1997 Camaro 30th 'vert... GT1 cam/C6 wheels/Flowmaster/HIDs/Viper 2 way alarm/Alpine audio mods up the wazoo
                            2005 Equinox LT... mostly stock daily/Thule snowsports roof system/sound + interior mods

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                            • #15
                              Re: 3.8 Engine Removal for rebuild

                              I took it top it off first and I was a bad thing to do. Took much longer and we we ended up breaking things. The factory put the engines in through the bottom and so should you.

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