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  • Ported/Polished Throttle Body - Pros and Woes Inside - LARGE POST

    Well, I actually got the guts to do this mod and am both very happy and very sad. First of all, I took off the entire throttle body and started to work on it. First off, I used an entire can of throttle body cleaner to get all the carbon/crap gunk off of the inside and the butterfly. I read in previous posts about how you might not want to remove the top part of the post so I didn't for safety's sake. I used a saw on the bottom of the top part of post where the funnel-slide to the MAF begins and cut straight across. I then made two angled cuts near the bottom of the shaft to remove one big chunk of metal. In comes the dremel and lots of work. I ground down the bottom stump to nearly flat and polished it down all nice and smooth as much as possible and rounded the bottom of the remaining top part of the MAF housing. This takes a while so be patient when doing it. Next, I used a round bit to port out the hole (air flows to the MAF sensor through this) some so more air could reach it, turned out nicely. Next came the wire brush attachment and the polishing of the entire interior of the throttle body. It looks great and shiny like a polished Edelbrock intake and is ready to be put back in. REMEMBERED TO COMPLETELY REMOVE MAF METERING PLATE! Placed butterfly back into place and screwed down tight. Ran lots of warm water through to completely clean out the metal dust and crap inside and used towel and q-tips to completely dry it out. Put both sensors back into place and voila, throttle body was ported, polished, and cleaned and ready to be put back in. Now, I drove around for an hour or so and found 1 place nearby that had a new gasket for it. So, I go back home with the gasket, use some more throttle body cleaner on the opening into the upper intake manifold, and clean off the old crusty gasket. I place the new gasket into place, push throttle body back into place, but bolts back on and intake and sensors back into place, and I'm done! Now for the bad stuff:

    1. Forgot to tighten all throttle body bolts, so pressure built up and blew lower part of gasket out letting ALL my antifreeze out through hole. :mad:

    2. Car drove fine for about 5 min before coolant ran out (all over engine of course) and I literally watched the temp gauge go up to 235 before I got the car pulled over and stopped. Talk about steaming from the antifreeze on the hot engine! Had to refill antifreeze three times to get car home.

    Before the leaking problem and heating up, the car ran like a charm (after throttle body cleaner burned out initially) With the MAF screen removed, the bottom post completely gone, and the polished surfaces, the car gained more mid range power and definately gained a SOTP gain. 60 seemed to come a bit quicker than before, but no numbers of proof yet. As for now, car is out of order until I can order another gasket, get some gasket sealer to bond seal the throttle body completely, and of course remove and clean out the entire thing beforehand AGAIN, but when all the crap work is done with, I think I will be really pleased with the result. So, if you can withstand the time it takes to do it right and the possible gasket nightmare I had, this is definately a worthwhile mod. After I clean everything out again, hook it all back up, and get a good seal and a new gasket and get it running with some antifreeze :D I will let you all know how much better it is really.
    C. Boney<br />1997 Firebird 3.8L V6<br />---------------------<br />Modifications:<br /> <br /> SLP Cold Air Induction, Ported/Polished Throttle Body, Carsound 3\" High Flow Cat, Sweet Thunder 24\" Chambered Muffler, Removed Rear Exhaust Section, Custom Fan Switch, 35th Anniv. Silver Stripes, Old T/A-Style Silver Sail Birds

  • #2
    Did you polish it using a drillbrush or what?

    Thats very cool and very bad in the same accord - sorry about your problems - bet you won't do it again though! lol [img]smile.gif[/img]

    Keep us posted!
    2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
    Details: www.1lev6.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Get some pictures of it posted if you can.
      Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350

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      • #4
        I HIHGLY recomend you NOT port the hole any bigger.. after you remove the lower post on the 95-98 style TB, you MUST remove the bronze backing plate on the back side of the post.. this will cause air to go straight through the MAF.. It will pick up a LOT more air. You don't want that hole to be any bigger than it already is.

        Also, if you do NOT remove that plate, you WILL be running VERY lean at WOT.

        I just redid my TB over the weeked.. I COMPLETELY ditched the post.. top and bottom.. HOWEVER, I modified my TB to fit a 99 style MAF sensor.. so the readings are like stock again.

        The ported 95-98 TB without the 99 style MAF sensor will run VERY rich on a cold start and at idle.. so rich in fact that it might hurt your luanch. You might pick up a few degrees of timing advance though which is where the power comes from. I went from about 24 to 97 from doing that. Now with the 99 style MAF sensor I'm back down around 23.
        Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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        • #5
          Magnus, way to go, joining the no top-post crowd!! I hope the pictures of "what not to do" helped...

          Hey, tell me about the 99 maf conversion. I may need to do this too. What was different, dimensionally and in the mounting?
          \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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          • #6
            Modifying the TB for the 99 style MAF sensor is NOT easy AT ALL!!!!

            The hole must be enlarged very precicely, and the socket setup on top of the TB also must be modified.

            I will be taking detailed pictures for you and Mike.

            Right now with the Accell 24 lb'ers I'm running a little lean at WOT.. mid to low .8 02's.. I'll throw the stockers back in and see how it is.
            Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for the info!
              \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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              • #8
                Well, took my truck up to the local AutoZone and ordered a Fel-Pro gasket for it today. ($11.99!!) They said it will be here tomorrow so I will have to go and pick it up. In the mean time, I have dismantled everything again and I am have cleaned everything out once again before I put it back on again. I will definately remember to tighten down everything very well this time and I am going to use some gasket sealer to make sure the throttle body no longer leaks anymore. After I refill the antifreeze and get everything put back together and take it for a long drive, I will let you all know how it goes.
                C. Boney<br />1997 Firebird 3.8L V6<br />---------------------<br />Modifications:<br /> <br /> SLP Cold Air Induction, Ported/Polished Throttle Body, Carsound 3\" High Flow Cat, Sweet Thunder 24\" Chambered Muffler, Removed Rear Exhaust Section, Custom Fan Switch, 35th Anniv. Silver Stripes, Old T/A-Style Silver Sail Birds

                Comment


                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by cboney2000:
                  I read in previous posts about how you might not want to remove the top part of the post so I didn't for safety's sake.<hr></blockquote>

                  I got a picture up, of what not to do... For anybody who is thinking about taking the top part out, it can be done, but carefully.

                  http://www.f-body.net/registry/johnd/
                  \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    In another forum here, the subject is throttle body spacers. Well, also mentioned was just filling up the "tunnels" where the coolant flows with Jb Weld or Devcon...Do most people do that when they have their TB off, or do most people porting/polishing their TB not do the block off mod? I am very interested in P/P mine. Thanks in advance.
                    <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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                    • #11
                      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by OneQuickV6:
                      In another forum here, the subject is throttle body spacers. Well, also mentioned was just filling up the "tunnels" where the coolant flows with Jb Weld or Devcon...Do most people do that when they have their TB off, or do most people porting/polishing their TB not do the block off mod? I am very interested in P/P mine. Thanks in advance.<hr></blockquote>

                      I did mine... A partial block-off anyway. I haven't heard of anyone else using this approach yet.

                      Just the channel in the tb, not in the intake. (same effect as the block off)
                      \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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