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This is just a reground 3.8 crank right? AKA offset stroker. Why is it 2000$? I know it comes with rods, but still. I understand its a lot of work to make, but you can get a completly new forged LS1 stroker crank for that much.
So whos going to start the first GP?
Turbocharged and intercooled.<br />17psi(oops), stock fuel pump, no FMU<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64</a> <br />Video: <a href=\"ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com\" target=\"_blank\">ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com</a> Assorted car ****: TurboCamaroFull.
There are alot of machine shops that can do an offset ground crank for our motors. Check with yours to see if they can get you what you need. Or pay ZZP or whomever for theirs, since they did alot of R&D on their kit and have it ready to go, no guess work.
<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!
whats purpose of this kit anyways? more HP im guessing? but i read that really only made for NA applications.. wouldnt it just be better to get a Turbo or something?
99\' W68 Firebird<br />SLP Ram air kit,Whisper Air Lid, k&n, 8mm Taylor Wires, Bridgestone Potenzas RE950, BMR Red LCAs, Pacesetter Headers and 3\"in catalytic converter with 2.75\" Flowmaster Cat-back<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/501008\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/501008</a>
1500 is a lot better price than 2000...it will probably spark more interest.
And on their site they said it could handle 8 pounds of boost if nto a little more...so it would have you covered...it seems pretty cool.
true you can go higher than 8psi on the stock but you will reach higher hp faster with a stroked motor plus i would think a turbo would spool up quicker with more gas being burned (hence more heat) than a stock engine. i agree it would be nice to get a forged crank but for those of us looking into no more than 7-8psi this is something to look into now.
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
It's not worth it. The reworked crank splits in half at merely 450 crank HP. That's not much when talking forced induction, and or nitrous. The stock crank can handle over 600 HP at the crank in bursts. You do the math. The stock crank is better when left alone.
2000 Firebird. Whisper Lid, True duals, TSP mail order tune, Built Tranny , TCI 2800 stall verter, B&M tranny cooler, Eaton LSD, 3.42 gears. Current best ET. 15.232 89.09 MPH 2.175 60ft on stock 3.42\'s and open diff.<a href=\"http://www.geocities.c
I don't think that the 4.1 kit deserves so much ragging. It is now another option for those that want to increase performance. My hats off to those guys for putting the effort forth to try other things for the better of the community. Quite of few of you are putting this thing down but it might be the perfect alternative to those that don't want to worry about the headaches of FI.
I am not saying that I am going to do this mod just wanted to add a alternative view to the stroker haters....LOL.
I don't hate the stroker idea, I just think the should have used a custom billet crank, which would have been much stronger. In essence making the stroker a viable mod for everyone, whether N/A, FI, or Nitrous.
2000 Firebird. Whisper Lid, True duals, TSP mail order tune, Built Tranny , TCI 2800 stall verter, B&M tranny cooler, Eaton LSD, 3.42 gears. Current best ET. 15.232 89.09 MPH 2.175 60ft on stock 3.42\'s and open diff.<a href=\"http://www.geocities.c
i deffinately agree with that. im planning on getting this after i get my turbo done and then getting a custom crank built. then ill come on here and sell the reworked crank probably.
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
I know some of the nitrous cars are close, but has anyone on this board EVER dynoed over 375rwhp? 450 crank hp is a hell of a lot of power for a V6. Also, has anyone ever broken their stock crank?
What I want to know is how this effects the cyclic stress on the crank. If you run 300rwhp how long before it breaks? I know there is some way to figure it out. I have got to start paying attention in these engineering classes.
Turbocharged and intercooled.<br />17psi(oops), stock fuel pump, no FMU<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64</a> <br />Video: <a href=\"ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com\" target=\"_blank\">ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com</a> Assorted car ****: TurboCamaroFull.
Does anyone have a good idea at what track time would be with this kit? My guess would be in the low 14's, considering it's near LT1 power numbers, with 240 RWHP.
1996 BLack Camaro 3.8L V6 w/ Flowmaster 80 series, NGK plugs, SLP CAI, custom ram air mod, 600watt Kenwood and 2 10\' JL audio subs.
The stroker kit itself wont give you 240...thats with some other mods as well if I'm understanding correctly...but thats still good. 240 N/A is quite an accomplishment for a V6
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