pasenger side of motor lifter tick

[19camaro96]

My lifters are ticking on the left side of the engine. I tightened up the right side, but because of the a/c, I can't get the left valve cover off. Any ideas. I can stand the ticking sound. Is there anything i can put into my motor to quiet it down? Thicker oil maybe? Any idea's would be very helpful. thanx

[pgriffith]

What engine do you have?

[98Camaro3.8]

He's got a 96 3.8.


You're going to have to remove the engine lift bracket on the rear of the engine. It is a huge pain in the *** to remove, but you'll have to get it off before you can take off the valve cover.

[19camaro96]

Tightening the bolts on the lifters should quiet it down though right. The right side one were a little loud, I tightened those up and it sounds fine, but now you can hear the left ones. This is going to be a pain to do but it has to be done.

[Dizturbed One]

I don't understand what you mean by "tightened up the lifters"

Do you mean you tightened the rockers?

You shouldn't just tighten the rockers down like that if so, I don't believe your car has self aligning rockers, so you have to set a proper valve lash in order to get maximum efficiency of your motor. Watch out for further pushrod, lifter, and possibly valve problems if you're just going to dive in and start wrenching with no specs... Assuming that these motors have hydraulic lifters (every stock SBC I've encountered does)

You can try a heavier oil, but it doesn't always solve the problem (then again, sometimes it does) it may even make it worse.

Try an additive like Lucas Oil Stabilizer or Power Punch (I'd go with Power Punch, basically the same thing, cheaper, and it works great, I assemble motors with it also) with your next oil change to see if that helps.

Alot of lifter tick is caused by crud in the motor stopping efficient oiling of the pushrods, this often happens on cars that are driven short distances daily and never really get a chance to warm up (running too cold will form HEAVY deposits inside your motor)

Before you change your oil, get a soda can or two(well rinsed) full of diesel and dump it into your oil (on a COLD motor, but start it for a couple minutes before just to get the oil through the motor, without actually letting it warm up, once the temp gauge starts to move turn it off)

Then start the motor and let it idle to full operating temperature. Let it sit at normal operating temp for about 5 minutes.

Then turn it off and change your oil while it's still hot (be careful, use an extension on that drain plug, lol)

RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO REV YOUR MOTOR AT ALL WHILE IT'S IDLING.

The diesel will break down the oil and any contaminants in your block and oil passages (The oil will still retain lubricating properties, but do NOT rev your motor while doing this, I usually just tap the gas right before I turn it off to send a little more turbulence through the system and blow anything through that may be hung up)

Put some high mileage oil and substitute a quart or so for Lucas or Power Punch (this stuff is great for minimizing cold starting wear also)

I've done this in many of my cars, including my 3.1 92 Camaro. It quieted the motor down QUITE A BIT when all was said and done. Got rid of some lifter tick, and smoothed the idle out nicely. It did absolute WONDERS for the 383 big block in my 65 Fury, and put an end to alot of the smoking it was doing.

Run a few quarts of cheapo oil at idle for a couple minutes, then drain that stuff (just for peace of mind against any diesel still being in there), and put your good oil and oil filter on (use AC Delco filters, FRAM is paper junk)

Or you could go buy a 10 dollar can of oil change cleaner like Flare... Which does the exact same thing, but not as well I might add... lol

Hope this helps.