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is there anyway to adjust the richness or leaning out of the engine? Cause there is carbon build up on my exhaust tips which tells me that the car is running rich. Thanks in advance.
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2000 Black T/A M6 343rwhp 349rwtq<br />11.94 @ 118 60\'1.79 Stock Internal<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/demonicbird00\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/demonicbird00</a> <br />AIM: W68Firebird97<br />R.I.P... Christine 12/25/02 <br />1997 Firebird W68 Black<br />14.887 @ 90.08 -
fpr- fuel pressure regulator
maft6s.......under the hood or under the belt, they just dont cut it. -
What exhaust do you have? When I had my stock turndown, I really didn't notice any carbon. After I switched to a formula take off with the lighter tips, I noticed much more carbon and my car runs pretty close to stoich. Check out your O2 readings via autotap, they should be around .900mv<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.chitownracing.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.chitownracing.com</a>Comment
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the exhaust that i have is called a Flo Pro
some generic brand. I even noticed it when i had my factory duel exhaust on too.
2000 Black T/A M6 343rwhp 349rwtq<br />11.94 @ 118 60\'1.79 Stock Internal<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/demonicbird00\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/demonicbird00</a> <br />AIM: W68Firebird97<br />R.I.P... Christine 12/25/02 <br />1997 Firebird W68 Black<br />14.887 @ 90.08Comment
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our cars were set up from the factory with a certain amount of backpressure to keep the intake charge in the clyinders to be burned. reducing the backpressure of youe exhaust and/or getting your intake done(whisper lid, remove maf screen, cold/ram air induction, ect.) will cause more of your intake to go straight through your engine without getting burned off. The only way to fix this without puting the stock crap back on is to get a cam made with less overlap in it. The cam can be made to have less overlap by either reducing the duration of both intake and exhaust lobes, adding more lobe separation, advancing the intake lobe but not the exhaust lobe, or retarding the exhaust lobe while leaving the intake lobe alone. You can also get a combination of these done. I suggest getting more lobe separation with a little more duration with the same intake and exhaust advancement as stock as well as getting mroe lift. Hope this helps.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headersComment
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just because you notice a lot of carbon buildup on exh pipes (or even spark plugs, for that matter) does not necessarily indicate that a fuel problem exists. this same problem could be the result of lower than normal operating temperatures, or a lot of very short trips in which the engine does not stay warm long and cools before restart.
in closed loop, O2s should fluctuate rapidly between about .2vac and .8vac (pre-cat). you may also want to test MAP sensor to eliminate a potential cause of a rich condition. testing fuel pressure is also a great idea in determining if you do actually have a fuel problem.
your particular driving conditions as well as the style of the exhaust tips are just as important as a:f ratio as potential causes of the conditions you describe.ASE Master, L1, X1, C1. Instructor in automotive systems. 99 3800 4L60E with a few mods and a greatful dead sticker on the back window.Comment
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