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Ok I know the specs for a cam has been borught up many o times, but every car/application is different so I will ask a few. I don't care much about gas mileage, I definately care about 1/4 mile times and beating hondas. I care somewhat about running quality (its a daily driver). Whats the most agressive cam I can get, without making the car run really bad and idle really bad (need some numbers)? Also what is involved in installing a cam, do I need to take the motor out or just move the radiator?
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1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
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first, you will probably need to take the motor out to get the heads and intake manifold off. those are the only 2 things that need to come off your engine. next, I suggest getting a cam that will get you about .45-.5 in. of total lift, have an Idle around 1000-1250, narrower lobe separation, more duration, and more overlap. overlap helps the engine breathe better at higher rpm's, less lobe separation and/or more duration can allow for more overlap. I suggest getting the heads ported as well since it is cheaper to do both while the engine is out rather than separate. I don't know if the cam will pass smog or not, if that is of any importance.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headers -
The motor doesn't need to come off.. the radiator doesn't need to come out either, it just needs to be pulled a little bit forward.
With a manual, you have a little more room in the driveability issue..
A cam like mine would be nice in your car..
COMP Cams XE 212/212 112LS 110IC (you might want 108IC) with .520/.520 valve lift.
I highly recomend a stronger single piece pushrod and stronger valve sprigns as well.
My car idles real well and doesn't set any codes off.Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HPComment
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Hey magnus, didn't you have problems with the valves hitting something or some problem like that? Was that the same cam? I don't want that problem! Otherwise, how will the stock springs and retainers hold up? The rods? I don't want to have to pull the heads or motor quite yet. I will probably have to pull it soon, but I need a backup car first!1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
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As he said, the motor doesn't need to come out. It's a very good idea to change everything at once. Springs, retainers, pushrods, etc.
His rockers were not designed for the springs and retainers. They are stock rockers. I don't know why they were even assembled. Like they never tested them. I'm really interested in aftermarket rockers that are meant for wider springs. His were making contact. Once he posts his pics you'll see it clearly.Comment
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So magnus had stock rockers with new springs and retainers? Is that why they were rubbing? I am thinking about doing cam , p/p heads and springs and retainers this summer. If I still have a hook up in an engine shop, otherwise just tha cam springs and retainers.1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
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I do not believe its worth it to get aftermarket roller rocker arms.
I have stock rocker arms with a wider diameter spring and retainer which is why I have clearance issues.
Another option is to switch to a LS1 stock style spring which will fit our stock retainers I believe. I have not looked into this option much.Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HPComment
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So if I get the same size retainers and springs, but just stronger, I should be ok. I am thinking about using nitrous in the future, so I bet the springs and retainers are a must for that?1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
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Aftermarket springs have the same diameter at the top as they do at the bottom. Stock springs have a much smaller diameter at the top. And it's for that small diameter that those stock rockers were designed for. So you see the problem.
Yes, if you can find the same kind of springs as stock just stronger you should be fine. You can then reuse the retainers.Comment
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What was the price tag on your cam magnus? I have decided to pull at least the heads, but probably the motor towards august sometime. Then I could change the springs and retainers too.
[EDIT] Will the LS1 springs hold up with the new cam?
[ April 17, 2002: Message edited by: AZ3.8Camaro ]</p>1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
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