SOUND CLIP OF NEW COMPCAM!

[StockV6Cam]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by pgriffith:
UPDATE ON CAM INSTALL! SEE PIC BELOW.

http://chevmaro.tripod.com/sitebuild...ictures/15.jpg<hr></blockquote>

Hahaha that picture reminds me of the one some kid drew for his twin turbo setup. VROOOOM [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

[Ironman24]

Oh I love that pic. The crank bolt is the best. It took me 3 days to get mine off. What a PITA.

[pvtschultz]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr> I have 2 sets of very nice pushrods. I have some CROWER 7.050 in length and 1 piece chromoly design. I also have a set of TRICKFLOW 7.005 in length and also chromoly 1 piece design. At the time I bought the Trickflows I got the closest I could find to the stock length rod. If I remember right the stock length is 7.025 correct? So should I go shorter with the trick flow's or longer with the crowers?
<hr></blockquote>

Go with the shorter ones. You milled the heads 0.020, correct. The shorter pushrods will correct your valve geometry. The same is used when using aluminum heads on a SB chevy, you need to use 0.010 longer PRs to maintain proper geometry.

[pgriffith]

Im getting really excited now. I busted off those stripped screws. I cracked the plate in the process but they came out really clean and I didnt nick or scratch the block at all. So all I need is 2 new screws and a new plate. But the old cam is out and the new one is now in place. I lubed the cam with engine assembly lube as suggested in the instructions. Did I forget something else? Im going to continue to build it up today and tommarow. Hopefully if the dealer has the cam guide plate in stock I will finish tommarow. I will keep you all updated.

Thanks to Mike Malloy for the kind phone assistance.

[slacker69]

Sweet deal man i really cant wait to see how your cam acts cause its lifts are close to mine. This cam is like twice as strong as our old cam lol. Well keep us updated

[Magnus]

BTW, Preston, I really want to thank you and make a huge example of this..

Thanks for not cluttering up advanced tech with post after new post of updates but instead actually using the message board like it should be used and editing your topic title and adding replies.

Thank you, from both Mike and I. [img]smile.gif[/img]

- Keith

[slacker69]

Yes i like that also it keeps all materials in the same post so that i can refer to stuff at the top unstead of looking for the right post

[pgriffith]

Well I got the cam in, I installed the timingh chain and all the gears. I made sure I had my timing perfect. All the dots line up like they are supposed to. I also installed my rocker arms. Torqued them down, turned the engine over a few times then added the additional 90* on the torque. After turning the engine a few times I double checked and the timing dots still line up. So now it looks like all I have to do is install my intakes and the front cover. I HOPE! Thats the plan anyways. I will hopefully find time to finish in the next day or two.

Thanks for all the help and support.
Magnus and Mike Malloy mostly.

[Magnus]

btw make sure the valves are CLOSED when you torque down the rocker arms.

[malloynx#2]

no problem preston.. let me know if you need any other help. i'm a phone call away ;)

[pgriffith]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Magnus:
btw make sure the valves are CLOSED when you torque down the rocker arms.<hr></blockquote>

IF not what could happen? How do I tell if the valves are closed or not?

[malloynx#2]

just do what i told you.. compress the springs when you tighten the rocker bolts.. you'll be able to tell...

[Magnus]

don't compress the spring. you really don't want to play with the spring seating after the heads are assembled and your torquing down rockers.

basically, torque down the rockers to spec.. then crank the engine.. you'll see the pushrods moving the rockers pushing the sprigns down.. then the springs come back up after you crank it some more and the valve is closed. torque it down again to spec.. then crank again and make sure they are closed again, and torque again to spec.. I like 3 passes.. THEN do the 90 degrees

[malloynx#2]

see i did my totally different..

i tighten down all my rockers until the springs were compress.. i could tell which were open and which were closed. after i snugged them down. i did my 132in lbs torque. i turned the engine over once then did the 90..

everything is fine.. car fired right up and runs very smooth..

i think your getting too indept.. i also believe that a cam install came be done in 8 hours. there is no need to pull the intakes at all.. use magnets to hold the lifters and pull the cam out....
my buddy did this on his ls1 in 4 hours..

[pgriffith]

I was going to use Magnets to do my install. But I was just thinking what if I dropped a lifter when the cam was out. That would be a huge mess to fix. And its not that hard to pull intakes anyways.