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I got the front cover all bolted up tonight. I was torquing down the crankshaft bolt and it requires 111ft. #'s and my wrench only goes to 80ft. #'s. So I have to wait untill tommarow so I can go to sears and get me a bigger tq wrench. After that I need to put the intakes on hook up plug wires and I should be all set.
I also purchased AUTOTAP from a board member so that should help.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by malloynx#2: hehehehe. when i put my crank pully back on, i used the impact wrench and put in on tight as hell.. :D <hr></blockquote>
I thought about doing that. Im going to sears in about 5 min. to get my new torque wrench though.
I got the cam installed. Ran great for about 30 mins. Idles nice and chops reall hard. I would compare the idle to Ironman's sound clip.
BAD NEWS:
Car was running fine for 30 mins. I drove it normal, reved it up high to about 5,000 rpm but all in all I was being nice to it. Now the car runs like crap. I was at a stop sign, accelerated slow from a stop and then I hear this terrible noise. car lost major power, I pulled over and turned it off immediatly, I then popped the hood and looked for obvious problems. Of course I didnt find any. Started the car again for about 3 seconds while my friend stood under the hood. He said it sounded like gun fire, its loud and he says there was smoke coming from my throttle body. I am guessing this is a bad intake backfire, but it was making all kinds of noise it was too hard to pin point and I was too scared to keep it running. I turned it off and had a tow truck pick me up. I havent started it sense then. I havent touched anything yet either. I need some help here guys. What could be happening?
When I had my cam installed, it almost made it to pick me up from work and then a rocker bolt came lose and started tapping. Take the valve covers off and check those first.
That reminds me, one of mine is tapping. Is there an easy way to get the hoses off the fuel rails?
1997 Nassau Blue Vette<br />1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 (lifted with 31\" tires)<br />2000 V6 Camaro, loud, cammed 210rwhp *SOLD*
I dont know if this is it but did you know anytime you remove the crank or cam you should get it put on tech 2 and have i think its called camshaft position relearn procedure done? The pcm loses the position of the cam and crankshaft when they are removed and you should take it to the dealer and have them do this.
Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,
make sure all the sensors are reconnect. remember the 3 sensor down by the crank pully... are you getting an ses light? did your dots line up? how did you tight your rocker bolts down? call me if you need to talk, maybe we can get this working
If it was a sensor I forgot to plug in I would think it would run bad immediatly and not run good for 20 min. The timing is lined up. No doubt in my mind when I put it together the timing is lined up. The only way the timing is off is maybe I was thinking something could have broke and the chain could have slipped. Magnus suggested it may be a broken valve spring. I will be looking into that later today. I am also going to do a compression check to make sure I didnt damage a valve or something. If Valve springs and rockers look good and compression check is ok then I will pull the front cover and check the timing chain and gears.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ironman24: Did you get any SES codes? If not I bet Magnus is right, something in the valvetrain, a spring or rocker. Keep us posted.<hr></blockquote>
Yes I did get an ses, but I had an ses before I put the cam in. Im gonna check the valvetrain tonight. I will let you all know what I find.
I didnt say the timing was off i said when you remove the cam and or crank the pcm forgets the position and you should get it put on tech 2 to relearn the pcm of the correct position.
Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by StockV6Cam: I think as long as you put the new cam in the same exact way as you took the old one out, you shouldn't have that problem.<hr></blockquote>
wow chris...wow....thats so helpful, thanks for the input. ;)
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by SLOWBRAEATER: I didnt say the timing was off i said when you remove the cam and or crank the pcm forgets the position and you should get it put on tech 2 to relearn the pcm of the correct position.<hr></blockquote>
Just curious, what would symptoms be if this wasn't done?
1997 Nassau Blue Vette<br />1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 (lifted with 31\" tires)<br />2000 V6 Camaro, loud, cammed 210rwhp *SOLD*
Detenation cause timing would probably be really high and will start detenating cause of to much timing
<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
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